[Kemper100]

I know it's best to use caulk for where wood trim meets together or against the drywall and wood filler of some type for mitered joists and set nail holes.

But what is the preferred product some use wood filler and I've seen painters use painters putty or even glazing.

What say you of wise forum members

Below is a typical miter joint in my house renovation project that I need to fill prior to painting.

:glasses: :glasses: :glasses:

 

[Kemper100]

Sorry here's the picture...

:glasses: :glasses: :glasses:

 

[Kemper100]

Not too sure why the picture isn't posting...

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[Old Thomas]

That type of crack sometimes happens when the jamb is slightly protruding beyond the wall. The trim lays back just enough to open the joint. When cutting your miter put something thin near the blade under what you are cutting raising the cut end slightly. Then your miter will be back cut a little and the faces will touch closing the crack.
Another way to fix it is to shim behind the casing bringing it out away from the wall just enough to close the crack. I don’t like this method because then you have to caulk the casing to the wall. I don’t like the resulting need for paint touch up.
Since it is painted you could rub in some sparkle, let it dry and sand it smooth. If it was stained or natural the cuts need to be precise.

 

[woodco]

Painters putty is pretty much just for nail holes, and it works a hell of a lot better with new construction than an already painted piece like the picture. In that case, I would use spackle, so it could be sanded. With putty, its not really supposed to be sanded. That miter joint could either be caulked or spackled. Spackling and sanding would look better though. Hopefully, the trim carpenter glued the 45...Then it wont crack out.

 

[mark sr]

I almost always caulk miter joints. While spackle could be made to look nicer it also could crack - decent caulk is less likely to crack.

 

[woodco]

If theyre tight, I might caulk it. If theres a gap, I spackle.

 

[Gymschu]

Use a highly flexible caulk. Although the crack can sometimes return, it is rare. I like SW's MaxFlex for gaps like that.

 

[Calson]

Painters use caulk as it is fast and they don't have to worry about it shrinking and having a callback to a customer. For sheetrock I use spackle but for wood trim it is always a caulk.

Best by far that I have found is the GE siliconized acrylic caulk that I was introduced to by a house painter and I have used dozens of different caulks on my house.

 

[Kemper100]

I would have never guessed caulking because of the spear marks it can leave. I guess if you wipe it down of the already painted surfaces it would work fine.

 

[mark sr]

Using a damp rag/sponge to remove the excess just leaving the caulk in the crack makes for a nice looking job.

 

[Gymschu]

Using a damp rag/sponge to remove the excess just leaving the caulk in the crack makes for a nice looking job.

Exactly. A deft index finger, a wipe of excess with a damp rag, and the joint looks completely neat and natural. I also let it dry for 24 hours so that when you go to paint it, it's solid like the wood and accepts the paint well.

 

[Kemper100]

Would you recommend the same method for filling outside corners of crown molding?

 

[Kemper100]

:glasses: :glasses: :glasses:

 

[woodco]

:glasses: :glasses: :glasses:

yes..

 

[Kemper100]

I have a door jamb repair that has gouges in it that I'm not too sure what to use as a filler that won't eventually fall out. I have DAP plastic wood and Elmer's Wood Filler and DAP platinum patch.

Don't really want to replace the jamb but I don't know is this is repairable.

 

[bail0081]

I have a door jamb repair that has gouges in it Fill the marks with abatron wood epoxy. It dries hard as a rock and is waterproof. I love this stuff. Use a sanding block and it will look good as new.


I'm not too sure what to use as a filler that won't eventually fall out. I have DAP plastic wood and Elmer's Wood Filler and DAP platinum patch.

Don't really want to replace the jamb but I don't know is this is repairable.

Fill the marks with abatron wood epoxy. It dries hard as a rock and is waterproof. I love this stuff. Use a sanding block and it will look good as new.

 

[Kemper100]

Fill the marks with abatron wood epoxy. It dries hard as a rock and is waterproof. I love this stuff. Use a sanding block and it will look good as new.

Do you think I should take a router and make the gouges deeper to give it more bite?

 

[bail0081]

Not necessary