[Willy Wonka]

I'm looking to build a 6' black chain link fence in Spokane, where I've read the frost line is 24". The DIY guides I've read have recommended setting posts below the frost line, some say 30" deep, and many recommend having 1/3 of the fence underground. When I'm trying to find supplies I'm generally only finding 8' long fence posts, which if placed AT the frost line 24" deep would be tall enough, but at 30" deep would only leave me with 5'5" posts above ground. Is 24" deep enough? Or do I just need to look harder for 8.5' or 9' posts?

 

[Nealtw]

I'm looking to build a 6' black chain link fence in Spokane, where I've read the frost line is 24". The DIY guides I've read have recommended setting posts below the frost line, some say 30" deep, and many recommend having 1/3 of the fence underground. When I'm trying to find supplies I'm generally only finding 8' long fence posts, which if placed AT the frost line 24" deep would be tall enough, but at 30" deep would only leave me with 5'5" posts above ground. Is 24" deep enough? Or do I just need to look harder for 8.5' or 9' posts?

If you are pouring concrete make the bottom of he concrete at 30 inches and hold the post so you have 6 ft above the ground.

 

[Willy Wonka]

If you are pouring concrete make the bottom of he concrete at 30 inches and hold the post so you have 6 ft above the ground.

Makes sense, thanks!

 

[lenaitch]

Many on here will likely disagree but I have done three chain link fences - none set in concrete (just pounded in) and none have ever moved. Of course much depends on your soil conditions. Our frost depth is ~48" and typical fence height is 48" so 8' posts work. I would imagine longer fence posts would be a special order and, obviously, more expensive.

 

[stick\shift]

Might want to check with the local AHJ - I put in a fence last month and a permit and inspection was required.

 

[lenaitch]

Might want to check with the local AHJ - I put in a fence last month and a permit and inspection was required.

Good point. My municipality doesn't care (uncharacteristically) but our daughter's wants a permit for pretty much anything that goes in the ground except vegetation.

 

[de-nagorg]

It's been a while, but I used to get 16' fence posts at a real "farm and ranch" supply store.

They had 8', 10', 12', 14', 16', you ask, you get.

Don't limit yourself to what any BOX store sells, look in your phone book for Agriculture suppliers.

ED

 

[569743]

It's been a while, but I used to get 16' fence posts at a real "farm and ranch" supply store.

They had 8', 10', 12', 14', 16', you ask, you get.

Don't limit yourself to what any BOX store sells, look in your phone book for Agriculture suppliers.

ED

I agree. You should be able to find 10' posts pretty easily. You can set them a few different ways: (1) 4' in and 6' out; (2) 30" in and cut them off at 6' out; (3) drill a 30" deep hole and pound the post in the ground to 4' (so 18") and then fill hole with concrete, which leaves you 6' out.

 

[SPS-1]

If you are pouring concrete make the bottom of he concrete at 30 inches and hold the post so you have 6 ft above the ground.

Could rip a short 1x2 and press it into the bottom of the post. At least the post won't be trying to sink before the concrete cures.

 

[660catman]

Many on here will likely disagree but I have done three chain link fences - none set in concrete (just pounded in) and none have ever moved. Of course much depends on your soil conditions. Our frost depth is ~48" and typical fence height is 48" so 8' posts work. I would imagine longer fence posts would be a special order and, obviously, more expensive.

I agree. I’ve seen more fence posts pushed out of ground with concrete than posts pounded in. We built two greenhouses for our neighbour and pounded the based posts in. It has never shifted in our 4’ of frost.


Retired guy from Southern Manitoba, Canada.

 

[SeniorSitizen]

Drive 8 ft. T-iron posts then sleeve with black plastic safety sleeves .


Please call 811 before driving posts

or digging.

 

[miamicuse]

Depends on your location.


Down here in south Florida we don't deal with frost lines. But we deal with hurricane wind loading. Therefore a lot of the rules on fence post maximum spacing and height depends on the actual fence panels. If you are putting in an iron panel with 90% see through the rules are different from say a stockade style wood panel where there is 0% see through. The more see through percentage the lower the requirement for wind loading.


We are also required to put in concrete at the base. 10" diameter minimum.


Soil conditions matter too. We have sandy soil and sometimes the water table is 36" below. What I do for a 4x4 wood fence post is to dig 30" deep into the hole. Then pour 6" deep of gravel down, use the wood post to pound it tight. That gravel helps drainage a bit better. The post is 24" deep into the hole, set with concrete. Some people down here coat the bottom 24" with roofing tar, I did that as an experiment but I am not sure it help or hurt the posts. We have to deal with moisture and sub termites.