feeding electrical wire
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What does your code say about wiring (Romex or Conduit)? It can be done. Either drill up from below if you can precisely ID the bay or wall cavity that you want to run or cut an opening in your wall exactly where where you want your JEM box to be, get your self a 6ft x 3/4" exploritroy or remodeling bit, stick it down the wall till it hits the bottom of the cavity put your drill on it, -set on high speed- push hard so it doesn't have time to walk around and punch through to the basement.
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"Greenlee makes a couple of products that may help.
The first is the Greenlee D'VersiBIT System
scroll down to the Starter Kit section. Some Electricians don't like the Placement tool so use a section of EMT or even plastic tubing.
The second tool is a fish stick.. Requires very careful measuring to drill the hole in the sill. One way is after making an opening for an old-work box then carefully measuring the distance to the studs on either side. Then drill a ⅛” hole close to the wall completely through the floor so you can spot it from the basement. Now you can drill a ¾" hole up through the sill and between the walls and push the fish rod up through the hole.
Let us know how you end up doing it.
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The first is the Greenlee D'VersiBIT System
scroll down to the Starter Kit section. Some Electricians don't like the Placement tool so use a section of EMT or even plastic tubing.
The second tool is a fish stick.. Requires very careful measuring to drill the hole in the sill. One way is after making an opening for an old-work box then carefully measuring the distance to the studs on either side. Then drill a ⅛” hole close to the wall completely through the floor so you can spot it from the basement. Now you can drill a ¾" hole up through the sill and between the walls and push the fish rod up through the hole.
Let us know how you end up doing it.
.
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IMHO, The best way may be up from the basement if you`re just going up 12-16 inches to a new receptacle.
Locate your stud for box placement. Drill a fine 16th marker hole on a 45 angle thru the floor against the baseboard ( if your joists don`t sit below your studs) and fish a thin strand of wire in as a marker. Drill your feed hole up from below. TAPE the first 6 inches of your wire to make it more rigid to fish vertically, you don`t want to fish a wet noodle.......
If youre coming down from the attic do the same. Easier to fish rigid wires......You can also use a fish tape or heavy fishnig weight on a piece of line and drop it own the wall agaiinst the drywall. Then use it to pull the other wire thru to your receptacle opening.
Locate your stud for box placement. Drill a fine 16th marker hole on a 45 angle thru the floor against the baseboard ( if your joists don`t sit below your studs) and fish a thin strand of wire in as a marker. Drill your feed hole up from below. TAPE the first 6 inches of your wire to make it more rigid to fish vertically, you don`t want to fish a wet noodle.......
If youre coming down from the attic do the same. Easier to fish rigid wires......You can also use a fish tape or heavy fishnig weight on a piece of line and drop it own the wall agaiinst the drywall. Then use it to pull the other wire thru to your receptacle opening.
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Chemist1961 The problem with stiff wires and sometimes fish tapes is this an outside Insulated wall per DavidS. You are right about the long and short of it, but the long restoration bits do have a small hole thru the tip of the bit that you can tie a leader or a 14 ga. strand to , to pull back to you. Usually I have found that a 'stiff' wire and even the stiff fish tapes just tear up the insulation and in effect Uninsulate the wall. In extreme cases you may have to cut out carefully a 16 x 12 panel about 2" above your base board, drill your hole from there, place your conduit ( or Romex), GIT ER DONE, and proceed to da couch with a beer of course.
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GB,
Re the insulation.... I live in a cold zone where code requires vapour barrier. 6Mil poly is now code. In my experience taping the end of the wire not only stops the wilt when feeding verticle and stops bending or curling back when feeding down from above but also reduces the tearing and snagging caused by exposed copper or jagged stripping...
no question on the 6' bit if you have one in your goodie bag.
That said I'm 100% for the beer and the couch:thumbup:Goin there now
Re the insulation.... I live in a cold zone where code requires vapour barrier. 6Mil poly is now code. In my experience taping the end of the wire not only stops the wilt when feeding verticle and stops bending or curling back when feeding down from above but also reduces the tearing and snagging caused by exposed copper or jagged stripping...
no question on the 6' bit if you have one in your goodie bag.
That said I'm 100% for the beer and the couch:thumbup:Goin there now
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