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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What type of receptacle box do you prefer for new residential work?

I've been using these adjustable boxes:


But they never end up straight. If I adjust them flush to the edge of the drywall, the far side from the adjustment always sticks out too far or is recessed and not flush.

I've tried the plastic boxes with the nails in them and get pretty much the same results. Either I'm doing it wrong or I am just not using the right stuff. Any suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It is not the box. It is the wood stud twisting.
So what's the solution? Where I needed a 4-gang box, I put in an extra stud to hold it firm but that's not realistic for every box. I read somewhere that the box had to be flush with the room-side edge of the drywall for fire prevention. Is this true or can I back the box in far enough so the plate sits tight on the wall?

Both are interesting boxes. They aren't really any more expensive than the cheap ones. But I still have doubts that they're what most pros are using to get good solid device mounting - or maybe it's my ability to get a good, solid, mount using those boxes. I need a magic bullet.
 

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I have only had issues with 3 or 4 gang boxes. For those I make sure there is a piece of stud on both sides to keep it flush on both sides.
 

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Both are interesting boxes. They aren't really any more expensive than the cheap ones. But I still have doubts that they're what most pros are using to get good solid device mounting - or maybe it's my ability to get a good, solid, mount using those boxes. I need a magic bullet.
They are what this pro uses. The ability to bring the box perfectly flush after the fact is worth every penny, especially in kitchens and bathrooms.
 

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I like (and use) Carlin nail-ons. Wooden studs move for a long time, unlike metal studs, so "flush to finish" doesn't stay forever the same. The Carlins with a flange on the side opposite the stud make for easy adjustments using a screwdriver and hammer through the opening to deflect the nails. Trying for perfection, in this trade, wastes money.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'm personally a fan of using 4square boxes with a mud ring.

View attachment 230106
Thanks, Smokeshow. I think that is the right thing to do. I've avoided the metal boxes in the house but I think I'll try some of those.

So after hours of videos on YouTube, I did not find a single one showing how the mud or drywall is finished around a metalbox/mudring combination so let me take a guess at how to do it: Cut and install the drywall as close as possible but then use a mudding knife to spread evenly and just go straight across the mudring so the mudring is flush with the plaster and sort of cleans itself off to leave the opening. Sound about right?
 
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