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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
92' Ford Ranger with 2.9 V6. My truck failed emissions inspection last month in the fuel system pressure category. I installed a new fuel tank filler neck today because the old one had cracks in the rubber.

I had it re-inspected yesterday and it failed again for the same reason. Today, I'm going to replace the vapor hose that trails from the gas tank to the charcoal canister in the engine bay. The guys at the emissions station said they smelled gasoline vapor under the left side of the truck, where the fuel/vapor lines are

Last year, I replaced the charcoal canister and fuel pump. My fuel vapor system has no electronic function.

There is something else that concerns me. When I replaced the fuel pump last year, I was unable to secure one fuel pump locking ring tab under one of the notches on top of the gas tank. When I put my nose close to the fuel pump mounting point, there is a slight smell of gas fumes.

There is a rubber seal under the locking ring. And the locking ring seems tight. But could this be one of the causes of escaping gas fumes? I had great difficulty trying to slide that last locking ring tab under the notch. I finally gave up when I was installing it last year.
 

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JUSTA MEMBER
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Is there a possibility to try a different testing facility.

Sometimes those places have a bias against certain older vehicles, and will fail them regardless.

And if that seal ring even leaks one drop it will leave a smell.

It might leak only when filled-up, or might slosh on a turn.

I'm luckier than other states, we are expected to keep our vehicles maintained without a mandatory inspection, before licensing.

So there are a few on the roads here that have faulty tires, brakes, lights, etc.


ED
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Check engine light is not coming on. When they pressurize the fuel system, pressure or vapor leaks out somewhere. It failed at two different locations.


Yesterday, the guy let me end the test early so I wouldn't lose my free re-test


Ahh......When I was removing old fuel filler neck, some fuel spilled. Hopefully that was the cause of the fumes.


Let me ask you guys this. Would you just leave that fuel pump locking ring as is and just focus on replacing fuel/vapor lines?


In Arizona, they only allow a temporary registration renewal till you get your emissions issue resolved. It expires next Friday.



(I think they should abolish these emissions inspections)
 

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I would get it re-tightened, because I am in a wet road environment in the winter and spring thaw, and there is a possibility that water can get into the tank.

Arid-zona, is not so wet as long as here.

And if it leaks , there pressure test is going to have odors always.

It is your call.

 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I worked on this today. See that hose in the photo by itself below the two fuel lines on top of the fuel pump? I was told that is the vapor hose that goes to the charcoal canister. I looked under the truck and found a hose that had partially loosened. I disconnected it and a little bit of brown gooey stuff came out that smelled like gas. I assume that was the vapor hose. When I ran engine nothing came out of that line.


The old fuel vapor hose was too inaccessible to reach. It was fastened inside the frame rail and was interrupted by a couple segments of steel line. So I extended new fuel vapor hose from that white cap in the photo to the charcoal canister in the engine bay. I left the old vapor line in place and capped off the steel segment in the engine bay.



Then I started engine. It ran fine. I observed below the truck for fuel leaks and fumes and didn't see any. The fuel vapor lines do not pass through any electronics. So the fuel vapor line should just be a straight shot from gas tank to charcoal canister from what I saw underneath.


But I agree that locking ring is suspect also. That one locking ring tab is hung up against the notch. So I think I have to wack it downward.Then I think it would slide in under the notch like it's supposed to. Do you think it might damage the fuel pump if I strike down on the locking tab?


I'd like to try this tomorrow night after work. I also plan to replace the vapor hose from charcoal canister to throttle body. Does it sound like I hooked up that new vapor hose correctly?
 

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I would fix the locking ring.
 

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The vapor hose was in the frame to protect it from road debris tearing it out.

They might nix this modification, but if you have a line from the can to the return nozzle, it should be functional.

Do try to protect the exposed line from flying debris.

Usually a Drift punch, and a few whacks with a hammer, and the rubber gasket will squash enough for the lock ring to slide around and lock in place.

That is if the rubber is not kinked somehow.


ED
 

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I'd back that locking ring off and make sure it looks to be in good shape. Then get it centered just right and ease it back together slowly, making sure it gets under all the side ramps that will hold it down evenly to stop the pressure from escaping. Tighten it by going in a pattern like you do snugging up wheel lugs so all sides get equal attention.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
They won't care about the modification. I have never seen them look under the vehicle. They're just looking for a pass or fail on their computer screen. And they like to see receipts of the parts purchased.


I'm hesitant to back off and reverse the locking ring. I tried that before and it didn't help for the reason in the next paragraph.


That one notch is bent downward a little compared to the other notches. That's why I wasn't able to slide that remaining tab underneath. Service garage must have done that years ago before I did my own repairs.



The notch and tab are are almost flush edge to edge. That's why I was considering a downward strike on the locking ring tab, Maybe I'll use my hard rubber mallet instead of a hammer.
 

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Some smog failures are a result of the man administering the test and his subjective opinion. Once that gets entered manually in the results, it gets reported via modem to the network and you are thereby ratted out to all other smog test stations. It can be hard to get out from under that without a good and sure fix that you can convince the test official that you have sure nuff fixed it. He's just going by the stuff he sees on his screen that the first man reported. I wouldn't use that guy again... he could have cut you some slack instead of being a rat.
 

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Fix the lock ring, use a brass punch and dead blow hammer or the special tool. No sparks around the gas tank!
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Thanks. I just looked up dead blow hammer online.

Can that notch (ramp or whatever it's called) on top of the gas tank be bent slightly upward? I started to do that last year. But I backed off, as I was concerned I might break it off.

What's that ramp notch made of? It looks like it might be plastic.
 

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Mix up some rich soap & water solution and bubble test that for leaks before doing anything. A spray bottle work well for applying that. No point in traumatizing it if it isn't leaking. Blow a little compressed air in the filler hose to gently pressurize the tank... hold a shop towel or rag around it so a low amount of pressure can build up.

If it was leaking and you fixed it, bubble test again to make sure it's fixed.
 

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I think that uses an O-ring for the seal so make sure it's seated properly. All those tabs are metal and spot welded to the tank... no plastic involved. They won't bend easily so shouldn't be bent unless someone got too rough with it.
 

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Thanks. I just looked up dead blow hammer online.

Can that notch (ramp or whatever it's called) on top of the gas tank be bent slightly upward? I started to do that last year. But I backed off, as I was concerned I might break it off.

What's that ramp notch made of? It looks like it might be plastic.
What is the tank made from? Some are plastic, older ones were steel.

If it is a plastic tank, use a HOT screwdriver to reshape it into more of a bevel, to allow the ring to slip under it's edge , then it all should just slip-slide around to tighten up.

In lieu of a heated screwdriver an electric soldering tip can suffice.

It's obvious that you don't want any flame source around there, but I want to add it.

If metal a locking needle-nose plier does wonders here.


ED
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
That's a good idea Surfer. But they might use higher pressure at the emissions station. Worth a try.

Also, I wonder if I could wedge a putty knife between the locking ring tab and notch. If I can do this, then maybe I could tap it into the ramp with low impact
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yes, It does use a rubber O-Ring. That ramp is definitely bent slightly downward. That's the cause of this. Even if those ramps/tabs permanently affixed to the tank are metal, I'm not sure I would even want to bend those. The tank looks plastic. But I don't know for sure.
 

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Do you have a magnet, there are only 2 kinds of tank on ford. Steel or plastic, a magnet sticks onto steel.

Also they have different sounds when knocked on.

As I stated earlier locking needle nose plier, and gently pry to move it wider.




ED
 
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