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I'm planning to have a weekender home built on my country place. One of my bids(the cheapest) for the shell doesn't include exterior sheathing. The company in question has been around for quite a while and seems to have a good reputation in the area. The shell, as built by said company, consists of 2x6 framing with an upright every 8' with four horizontal members on 2' centers between the uprights. This would be covered directly by 29ga metal siding with an optional tyvek wrap. So, no exterior sheathing of any kind. Does this sound acceptable? Location is mid Missouri.
 

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Perhaps the reason that his bid is the cheapest is because he's not building the same structure as the other bids. Ask him to resubmit with the sheathing added. Or have the other companies drop the sheathing price. You're not comparing apples to apples right now.

Personally I would want the sheathing for the structural integrity. It will also protect your metal siding from SOME minor dents.
 

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The metal would be an issue with temperature changes and condensation on the inside. Daytime humid air entering the the wall cavity and a quick cooling of the metal at night yields moisture, This has bee shown to be an issue with vinyl siding over osb where it requires a ventilation gap. No direct experience with metal siding.

A layer of sheathing should also add significantly to the total strength.

Bud
 

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pretty rare i see a house with exterior sheeting around here. I am friends with a high end builder out here and he tells me so many stories about how houses of today are being built very poorly. His basic point is a better quality home does not cost that much more to build.
 

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Sorry sheathing, english was not my first language all these exceptions and such drives a guy crazy. No, every house I have seen had tyvek. These zip systems seem to be pretty popular but I do not know anything about that stuff
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for all the replies. I do want to keep expenses to a minimum as it is just a weekender, but I am mostly concerned about structural integrity. Would OSB be the most economical and viable solution if I decide to go with sheathing? Also, what exactly does the Tyvek wrap accomplish?
 

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Tyvek is a weather resistant barrier blocking wind and water, yet is will pass moisture vapor so can dry to the outside.

Although osb is the least expensive I'm growing to not care for it, but it is popular and kept dry will last for many years.

The sheathing also provides a secondary air barrier to keep the wind out of your walls.

Being just a weekender I'm nor sure what is more important to you, staying warm in the winter or cool in the summer. Or just dry while you are there. The mention of 2x6 framing implied to me, more insulation capacity.

I know in my area if you build a cabin in the woods it is difficult to get insurance for it, vandals or fire. So we tend to build them cheap and usually can only get to them for 3 seasons, snow's too deep.

Bud
 

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There is no reason to sheet a pole barn structure whether it be a storage building or lining space .The 2X4 girts are for stability as much as hanging the metal from.I would not want OSB in contact with the metal.Any other options depend on how you intend to insulate the building.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
There is no reason to sheet a pole barn structure whether it be a storage building or lining space .The 2X4 girts are for stability as much as hanging the metal from.I would not want OSB in contact with the metal.Any other options depend on how you intend to insulate the building.
The framing is 2x6 and I will probably use batting in the walls. So, in your opinion it will be structurally sound without sheathing?
 

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Yes.I build these a lot and never sheet them.Depending on the use and location the sheeting can do more harm than good.Just no reason for it in a pole building.If your going to be living in it part time put that money to better use such as insulation or a good stove.
 

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buildings that do not have structural sheathing via osb or plwyood are much more susceptible to racking and going out of square in regions known for high winds. in the 90's and up to about 2009 it was common place here to build this way with diagnol metal straps let into the wood framing to keep the walls square however if the winds get high enough it can still rack a wall

if they are doing steel framing i would still want atleast rigid foam insulation on the outside to create a thermal break on the outside which can eliminate that condensation forming
 

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They are pole barns.They have 6X6's embedded in the ground,in concrete below the frost line and 2X4 girts 2' oc on the walls which the metal is screwed to.
Obviously most of you are posting in this thread are not familiar with these structures.
They also have engineered roof trusses with 2X4 purlins every 2' oc which the metal is attached to.
A link to my supplier if anyone here is interested:: http://www.graberpost.com/
http://www.graberpost.com/services/construction-and-installation
Some pics of the structure::
 

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Actually, I think the building I've been quoted is framed on top of the slab(no post in ground). Otherwise it looks similar to the pics you show.
if the posts are not "set" in the ground, then the walls will need some anti- racking system. diagonals, sheathing, etc. the steel siding cannot supply that.

it is likely that for living quarters the space in between the uprights will be studded out for wiring, pipes, insulation, etc.. you are beginning to lose the benefits of pole construction then. and, need to include that work in your cost comparison with stick build.
 

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Actually, I think the building I've been quoted is framed on top of the slab(no post in ground). Otherwise it looks similar to the pics you show.
This is a typical example of why the op should have posted more information to get a good answer to your question.I'm getting tired of trying to help people out on these boards that want you to help them out when they can't even take the time to post a pic or a little more info so you can give them a good answer.
Want my help as an contractor with 50 years experience ?Get off your ass and help me a little to resolove your problem.I get good money for this every day and am trying to help you for free.Put a little effort into it yourself.Not directed at this op specifically but most of them.
 

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Don't feel too bad, it is as much our fault that no one questioned you on the type of building you have planned. Thread actually started out on the wrong answers... 4x4 (or larger) every 8' may or may not work, depends on local code requirements; http://www.cmdgroup.com/building-codes/missouri/

Your local snow load is 20#, seismic Zone "C", and minimum wind speed is 90 mph; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_3_par005.htm?bu2=undefined May have local amendments...

Requirements for shear wall in 90mph; http://www.awc.org/pdf/codes-standards/publications/wfcm/AWC-WFCM2001-HWG90B-0610.pdf

Gary
 

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Gary is correct and I did not intend to offend you.It's just very important to give as much information on what you are trying to do to get a good anwer.There are a lot of por's on this board including myself that like to help out and understand peoples lack of knowledge in certain areas and incorrect terminology.
I personally do the best I can to weed thru this and understand but a lot of times the little bits of info that the OP does not post can make a huge difference.
And location is on top of the list .A pic is ALWAYS useful.
Sorry for any remarks I made that were taken out of text.
 
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