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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey All,

I am going through the reno from hell. Long story short I threw out the GC that did an addition before more damage could be done (to my house and my wallet). So the pics below are of a new pre-hung exterior door w/ brick mould which is installed in a new breezeway. The original problem it had was that it seemed to be out of plane, ie the top right corner would pop out. They came back w/ shims and a big hammer and did some "adjustment." Now it's better but it is no longer even all around, and has gaps at the brick mould. Oh yeah... forgot to mention they nailgunned it in from the front.

Where I am now is that I am doing brick facing and it's time to deal w/ the front of this breezeway. I had taken off the wood stairs that they had put up and found not too much by way of flashing or sealing... just a sill made of ice & water barrier, which got a little shredded when the stairs came off. I slapped some Tyvek and peel-and-stick flashing to cover up any exposed sheathing, and then noticed some other weird installation action. The door is sitting not on the subfloor but on some sort of 1x shim. Where the sill flashing starts is actually higher than the floor, and rolls down. I can't see how water won't get in there onto the subfloor.

The framing seems plumb, not perfect but at least the studs that make the opening appear to be right. Not sure why this door would have been out of plane in the first place, but that's the least of my worries now.Problem is now the mason is coming and I can't see how I'm going to have time to pop this thing out and back in to fix it right, flash it, etc. The other problem is that if I do it and leave it out, it's going to be a nightmare to flash w/ brick/block in the way. Not sure if there is a quick fix to this.

Thx for any advice!

Overall view



Sittin' high



Sill flashing.. kinda



Door bottom... roll right in!



Gap @ bottom where door got knocked out to get it to close right



No gap on top



Left inside view



Right inside view - not as nice

 

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Out of plain, do you mean plumb?
If the wall is plumb the door should be plumb.
If that's wooden brick molding get rid of it and replace with vinyl before it rots out at the bottom.
Your right that door and the walls should have been sitting on top of that subfloor, little later to fix that now
The Protecto tape is run all wrong.
Your also missing any support under the threshold on the outside wall.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
"Out of plane" like the door and the jamb should be in the same geometric plane. I read it online somewhere while trying to figure out how to fix it (before they did the hammer job).

The Protecto-wrap is just run that way to cover up holes made when pulling off the old stairs. I did make sure to let the existing sill flashing (the ice &water, what was left of it) lap over the top of the wrap. The front will be supported later by a concrete stair.

I was thinking more of why they would jack it up like that. Only thing I could think of was that they knew I was doing tile eventually, but even so I still don't get it.

It is not too late to take the whole door out. I have other things for the mason to do beforehand if I really need him to. More and more I think about it, it seems like the right move to just do it right.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks mae-ling. Do you agree the flashing leaves something to be desired? (not to mention the fact that it still doesn't close well at the top corner)

There is no real "rule" for the finished floor because these guys weren't contracted to do the floor. They probably made some assumptions so I can always just measure up and see where I'm at. If I do leave it lifted like that, how can I stop water from rolling in below the sill? It's literally a good half inch from the front of the opening back down to the flooring. Even if additional layers of flooring butted up to that board, it would leave gaps on either side as it does not go all the way across.

Thx again!
 

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The boatd should be tight side to side. And the full depth of the jamb. But not the overhang of the sill. Then it should be flashed as the bottom of the opening which it is.
Best to uninstall door and reinstall and install proper jamb wrap and flashings.
 

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As Joe said you also want support under the sill overhang. Usually a plastic 1x4 or 2x4 cut to size. You do not want it sticking past the sill.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks again. Yeah I just went for it and am taking a break from prying (I can't thank them enough for nailing it in from the front. Sheesh. I plan to pick up some flex wrap and then redo the shim that lifts the door out of 3/4 plywood so that it covers the entire opening. Then I will flash it right and screw the door in the proper way. First time installing a door so pray for me :)

Yep no worries on the overhang... it is only off because the stairs came off. Eventually it will be a step down to a concrete platform. Oh yeah they used a piece of cut painted MDF to make the old toe kick. Expert.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I picked up some Tyvek flex wrap (queue sticker shock... holy @#[email protected]!) but before I slapped it on I decided to get a front to back level and found the new plywood sill pitched in toward the house. I took some shims and now it pitches out instead of sitting perfectly level (it is still level left to right). Will the pitch cause any problems with the door fitment? It pitches maybe 3/16" tops.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Update - So I have leveled the subsill and reflashed. Was hoping for the best but when I put in the door and pushed the brick mould up to the framing, lo and behold the upper latch side popped yet again. Shimming helped very slightly but the only real "fix" to make the slab close TRULY evenly is to kick out the latch side so much that the edge of the jamb is past the RO at the bottom. What's weird is that the walls/RO seem plumb enough, but maybe just off enough with each other. Could it possibly be a warped door?

If it IS the wall/framing, now I am a bit torn on what to do. I really want the reveal/trim to look good from the inside so the only thing I can think of is taking off the brick mold, getting the inside as good as I can, and then messing w/ the molding afterwards. It will be somewhat easier to hide on the outside as there will be actual brick butting up to it, so I can caulk to hide or whatever.

Thx again!
 

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you want to put a straightedge against the exterior wall, where the brickmold will set, checking for straight and plumb. there may be a nail head sticking up keeping the door out.

since the door swings in, you will need to keep a 1x spacer under the door for future flooring.

learning to set doors properly is not easy, and is a many step process.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yeah I thought I did... but I've been using the longest level I have which is only 4'. Time to invest in the longest straightedge I can find.

If one side turns out to indeed be out of plumb, is there an easy fix other than having the builder rebuild the wall? (which they won't since I kicked them out... plus I probably would not trust them to do it right anyway). The best ideas I have left are as I said above, taking off the brickmold all around since it limited full movement, try to get it passable on the inside, then set the door and figure out the trim after.

The door is sitting on a 5/8" subsill directly set on the subfloor. I did this because the other doors in the room were all set up the same. I did make sure to level it side to side and front to back.

Funny how you talk about the process. There were times where I thought I had it perfect and then found a problem. It is such a trial and error endeavor and never as easy as it looks in the Youtubes and HGTV shows :)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Oh yeah the other thing. When uninstalled, the door still sits the same way. ie standing on it's own sill, it will tend to want to pop the top corner of the door, same as when it is installed. Not sure if that's at all important but worth mentioning.
 

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Take that board out of there, the door has it's own sill for a reason.
I would also check the installation sheet for the windows. I can't tell too much from the picture but they look wrong.
Also......
They are definitely not aligned with the door..Maybe the reason for trying to install the board.
 
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