[jaykaysr]

Greetings!

There is a 27"Wide X 16'Long flower bed between the house and the
patio. We want to dig up the bed and put pavers in place.
We need this to be level to the patio. So, with some research, I've learned
I need to dig up the flower bed to a depth of 4-5", add gravel, sand, and
the pavers. I've also read that a polymer sand is needed. And my questions:

1) is the polymer needed for the paver bed? Or, just for fill between them?
2) is playground sand sufficient for the bed?
3) I have an odd width....27"....can I use a circular saw with a mason blade to cut the pavers to fit?
4) How do I best level the bed of sand for the pavers so they match the height of the patio?
5) We are in the upper midwest...is that a consideration with winter heaving?
6) Or, shelve the pavers and just frame, mix, and pour concrete?

Thank you!
Advice is most appreciated!
jaykaysr

 

[3onthetree]

-Dig up min 4" gravel base, 1" sand, + paver thickness (2 3/8"?).
-Polymeric sand is optional for the joints, not required.
-The base sand should be "medium coarse," different names for each region wherever you get it from ("mason" sand is pretty standard across regions, but is too fine for a base, "playground" sand is sometimes just "mason" sand, check).
-If you have a lot of cuts, wet saw is best and cleanest, rental for $50 is well worth it.
-The better you level the gravel the easier for the sand base, using 1" pipes for screeding.

If the existing patio is already concrete (you didn't say), lots of people would just match that with a small width, it just depends on the look you are going for and what else is going on in your yard.

P.S. above is for real interlocking pavers, not cheap thin 12x12 or 6x12 patio blocks.

 

[jaykaysr]

Awesome advice 3onthetree....thank you.

 

[u2slow]

4) How do I best level the bed of sand for the pavers so they match the height of the patio?

I recently went through this making a base/patio thing for my hot-tub.

Cut some 1x4's or 2x4's to the right length and work it like you're screeding concrete. One board to span over the entire gap being filled with pavers, now screw a second shorter piece to it (i.e. your gap is 27", so go with say 24") offset by the thickness of the paver + sand. Now you can rake, shimmy, and tamp the gravel material into place with your new tool.

Once the gravel is done, adjust your new tool for only the paver thickness. Do it again with the sand layer.

HTH. :smile:

 

[jaykaysr]

We have decided to do only part of this job with pavers. We will pour a concrete pad for that part of the space that will hold a heavy grill. My question relates to forming for the pad. Can I pour directly against the foundation of the house on one side and against a patio on the other? Or, do I need to frame it up?
Thank you!

 

[3onthetree]

No forms, you won't get them out. Put an expansion joint against the house, either fibrous or foam. At 27" wide you don't have to be too concerned about having a super solid screed rail there anyway, if the patio's nice and sloped away I'd just cantilever a long screed over it. And on the other side just make sure the existing concrete patio was formed with a smooth wall, then you can butt up right against it with the new concrete. Some temporary duct tape on top of the old concrete is good to keep the soup off the old tooled edge until you've matched it on the new.

Just a note, I have had a few renters who have melted the vinyl siding by keeping the BBQ right against the house.