[bcemail]

On the back of our house, there is a spigot near ground level. Unfortunately, they later added a deck on the back of the house, so now whenever we want to turn the hose on or off, we have to pull up the one loose board, lay down on the deck, and reach down.

I would like to run something to the front of our deck (about 15'), or run something up to deck level, which then drops back down to run under the deck.

I was thinking I could run a stretch of hose with some kind of shutoff valve at the edge of the deck. I was worried about leaking with this, or that the shutoff valve wouldn't turn it off all the way. If I went with this, any suggestions? Could this be permanent and just left in place?

What about running a length of actual pipe under the deck to a valve? Disclosure: I have little plumbing experience, but am more than willing to try and see what happens. Would something permanent like this be better? If so, what would be the best materials to use?

Is there anyway to make a small section of pipe that goes up 3-4' to a new spigot at deck level?

I am completely open to suggestions. Thanks for any and all advice!

 

[SPS-1]

New pipe should really be run inside the house, not outdoors. Where the current spigot is, what's on the other side of the house --- i.e basement, crawlspace, kitchen?

Where do you live? You don't want pipes anywhere where they might freeze.

 

[bcemail]

On the other side is crawl space. Good point about freezing. We are in Virginia so we do get cold spells. Does the crawl space usually stay warm enough to prevent that? Haven't had that problem yet.

How hard would it be to run a pipe in a different direction in the crawl space? Then have it come out about 18' over where the deck doesn't cover? I would need a new hole in the cement block wall which shouldn't be a problem. Just use the same type of pipe that's under there? Are we talking solder, etc or are there easier methods?

Thanks!

 

[Gymschu]

I'm not a plumber so don't take this as any type of gospel, but, I think in your situation, you could do it any of the ways you have mentioned as long as you have a shut-off valve inside. Just shut it off once the weather gets below freezing, open the spigot to allow any water to drain, and you shouldn't have any problems with pipes freezing, etc.

If you are able, the best solution would be to move the spigot so it's accessible without the deck in the way. If you can cut copper or plastic, do a little bit of soldering or glueing, then you can move it. Also, consider the use of "push" fittings which allow you to create joints without soldering. If you decide to go up from below the deck, obviously you would have to cut your pipe, remove the spigot, add a 90 degree elbow and add enough tubing to make it accessible at deck level. If you decide just to go outward, cut the tubing, remove the spigot, add a coupling or push fitting and extend it under the deck out the front side.

Again, to do any of these options will definitely require an accessible shut-off valve on the INSIDE that you can turn off when winter weather arrives.

Here's an example of some push fittings:

 

[carpdad]

I would remove the existing from the crawl space, connect new copper tube there and run it to outside of the deck. Unfortunately you need to do some crawling every year. Under the crawl space, I would put ball valve shut off and close it in winters. The extension must be sloped down so opening the new valve would drain the new pipe section. I'm in NJ but it does take more than a day of more than freezing temps to freeze the water in pipes and burst it. The valve itself can split although thicker bodied.

 

[bcemail]

I think I will use pex to run new pipe in the crawl space to a new location.

I will be making a new hole through the cinder block wall to put a new frost proof sillcock through. I've read some info about not letting the pipe contact the cinder blocks but using a sleeve around the sillcock. What is the purpose of this? Do I have to worry about the brass sillcock corroding or something from the cinders? Or is it just easier to remove the sillcock if something goes wrong?

Thanks!