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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am working on a house built in the late 1940's which has a basement bathroom. I could use some advice on the best way to extend a cast iron cleanout behind the toilet. The house requires bi-annual snaking of the main sewer line due to tree roots. Unfortunately, the best way to clean the main sewer is to pull the toilet. However, due to basement remodeling plans, I would like to rotate the toilet 90 degrees. However, rotating the toilet will block the only cleanout plug for the main sewer inside the house. The basement is only half way beneath ground level. So I would like to add a cleanout outside by extending cleanout of the vertical cast iron stack behind the toilet. This would prevent needing to bring the snake machine to the basement and pulling the toiet.

Attached image #1 shows the cleanout just above the basement floor. It would need to be extended about 4 ft vertically to be at a level to snake from outside.

It seems I have three options:

1. Remove the existing brass cleanout plug and add an a PVC/DWV extension to the exterior of the house. However, the cleanout is not a "y" style and is 90 degrees. This may not be good for a snake.
2. Cut out a section of the cast iron vertical stack above the existing cleanout and put in a cast iron "y" with slip repair joints (see image #2).
3. Drill a hole into the cast iron vertical stack above the existing cleanout and put in a flexible tap saddle (see image #3).

Am I missing any other reasonable options? Which is the best option? I am inclined to try #3 unless talked out of it as it should be the simplest and snake friendly.

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Do not use that rubber saddle clamp. I would suggest you install a PVC wye st 45 using proflex band couplings PL to CI. Also make sure you have a well-supported friction clamp above your work, there is a chance that the stack may collapse due to weight.

Proper shielded coupling

You also want to use the above coupling it is designed for this type of job and will tend to hold its shape where the radiator hose all rubber ones tend to bend and will never hold that weight. You will also need PVC glue cleaner and a small piece of pipe.

Friction clamp 4 inch Friction clamp

Since you're at the bottom, I would use 2 friction clamps to play it safe Keep all fingers out from under the pipe and your saws all will need a few diamond saws all blades or rent a cast iron snapper.
 

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Why not install a cleanout outside the foundation and cable from there? Better yet, add a new sewer line into the remodel budget and then you won't be cabling for a long time
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Do not use that rubber saddle clamp. I would suggest you install a PVC wye st 45 using proflex band couplings PL to CI. Also make sure you have a well-supported friction clamp above your work, there is a chance that the stack may collapse due to weight.

Proper shielded coupling

You also want to use the above coupling it is designed for this type of job and will tend to hold its shape where the radiator hose all rubber ones tend to bend and will never hold that weight. You will also need PVC glue cleaner and a small piece of pipe.

Friction clamp 4 inch Friction clamp

Since you're at the bottom, I would use 2 friction clamps to play it safe Keep all fingers out from under the pipe and your saws all will need a few diamond saws all blades or rent a cast iron snapper.
Ghostmaker, thank-you for the advice and tips. Question: A PVC wye is OK under the weight of cast iron? I realise the riser clamp should be added as well, but I thought only cast iron could be under the cast iron vertical vent stack.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Why not install a cleanout outside the foundation and cable from there? Better yet, add a new sewer line into the remodel budget and then you won't be cabling for a long time
It is an option. However, it would involve busting up the concrete in the foundation floor and still tapping into the vent line. The sewer unfortunately does not exit under the foundation wall. Instead, in runs towards the rear of the property, under a detach garage, where it turns 90 degrees and runs under the driveway. Putting in a new sewer is not worth the cost now, but will be when an addition is added down the road.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So you don't really want to extend the c/o, you really want to relocate the c/o?
That seems to be just semantics. To answer, one would need to know the definition of a cleanout. Is it where the access point to sewer line is located or the other end of the pipe where the plumber puts the snake in, or is it both including the pipe extension in between? It seems option #1 would be an cleanout extension while options #2 & #3 would be cleanout relocations. I am not sure how this helps resolve a real world problem.

To simplify what I want: To be able to biannual snake the sewer line without having to take a snake machine down basement stairs, remove a toilet to snake from the very end of the line, and not have the expense burden of alternative solutions such as replacing the sewer, ripping basement concrete flooring, etc. The three options presented in the first post seemed to be the best options for my intermediate circumstances (3-10) years for after researching alternatives - I'm just trying to figure which of the three is the best compromise.
 

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Install a CI WYE, not a san tee at the location you desire and extend the cleanout branch as needed. Always use directional drainage pattern fittings in this case
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Install a CI WYE, not a san tee at the location you desire and extend the cleanout branch as needed. Always use directional drainage pattern fittings in this case
Hi ThaeEplumber, thank-you for the advice. That is what I will do. I just realized image #2 is not a wye, but I was planning to use a direction wye along with the clamps and couplings Ghostmaker suggested. The should be the most snake-friendly option.
 

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Hi ThaeEplumber, thank-you for the advice. That is what I will do. I just realized image #2 is not a wye, but I was planning to use a direction wye along with the clamps and couplings Ghostmaker suggested. The should be the most snake-friendly option.
The picture is misleading- It is next to impossible to position no hub couplings as shown. Position them on the pipe or fitting and roll the unused end back onto itself so the fitting will slid into position, Then unroll the end and once it and the fitting are in proper position, tork the shield band nuts to the recommended 60 inch lb.
You can cut the pipe with ratchet cutter designed for CI pipe, recip. saw or small grinder. Everyone has an opinion about which is a better method
 
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