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Everest Oil

13954 Views 40 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  Powerengine
Does anyone have experience using Everest Engine oil? I was just trying to get some more information about the products, and if they are any good.
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I do not. But I am a firm believer in synthetic oils. I have used Mobil One in all my cars since 2000. Event the 18 year old Saturn is still chugging along. My 2004 Caddy CTS sounded like it came out of the showroom at 150000 miles (regretfully it got wrecked). The extended oil change interval more than makes up for the cost difference.
Good man on the Mobil. I'm actually a sales rep for a Mobil licensed distributor. This Everest Oil is popping up quite a lot, and know one knows a thing about it. Not even the Mobil team. When you call the manufacturer in IL, you cannot get ANY information from them. Very secretive. Selling on price only in the NY and NJ area.
That should be a red flag right there.
Stick with what you know works.
Yep on the Mobil 1, I've been using it in every vehicle I've had since 1984.
Never heard of it.

Mobil 1 in the gas burners

Delo in my duramax pickup

RotellaT in the equipment and dump trucks.
Im not stuck on ANY oil brand. I look for Specifications, not marketing hype. I look for usually, API rating as high (in the alphabet) as possible. I think it's "M" right now(?).
I do not. But I am a firm believer in synthetic oils. I have used Mobil One in all my cars since 2000. Event the 18 year old Saturn is still chugging along. My 2004 Caddy CTS sounded like it came out of the showroom at 150000 miles (regretfully it got wrecked). The extended oil change interval more than makes up for the cost difference.
Thats a good thing, Jim. But 18 yr old Saturn? I got 29 year old Sunbird, original engine (never rebuilt), using dino oil, changed 1X per year, and with 196,000 miles on it. never burns oil. Tell me dino oil is bad...........
Dino isn't bad. Synthetics are usually just better.
Better for loading the pockets of the oil companies. :smile:
There is more to it than profit margin.

Not sure you could argue that AMSoil is really out for the profit when they preach on extended drain intervals as compared to DINO oils.

Better base numbers, wear metals, TFOut numbers, etc. All better than conventional counterparts.
There is more to it than profit margin.

Not sure you could argue that AMSoil is really out for the profit when they preach on extended drain intervals as compared to DINO oils.

Better base numbers, wear metals, TFOut numbers, etc. All better than conventional counterparts.
With today's excellent conventional oils and much cleaner running engines, you can pretty well do the same mileage on them as synthetic. I have never had an engine failure, and when my very high mileage cars depart, they still pure like a kitten and don't burn oil. I then have a few bucks left in my pocket to buy you some of the koolaid you drink. :biggrin2:
With today's excellent conventional oils and much cleaner running engines, you can pretty well do the same mileage on them as synthetic. I have never had an engine failure, and when my very high mileage cars depart, they still pure like a kitten and don't burn oil. I then have a few bucks left in my pocket to buy you some of the koolaid you drink. :biggrin2:
The benefit to synthetics has been proven again and again, it's not really kool-aide when it's proven facts.

There is nothing wrong with conventional oils, I run them in my older Harley, my diesel pickup, all of our small engines, diesel trucks and equipment and pickups at work. So that's 15 trucks/equipment and IDK something like 2 dozen small engines that have run for years with the only failures being in small engines.

I won't however put a drop of conventional oil in my wifes '12 Traverse, not anywhere on the car. I'd have to look but her car may require Synthetic being used, a lot of newer cars do. All of the other fluids in my truck will be, or currently are synthetic also, it doesn't make much sense not to use them, aside from the transmission, they take very little quantity of fluid, last longer and hold up better, I tow a lot from early spring to late fall, it's a no brainier.


It's roughly $10 more for 5 gals of Mobile 1 at wally world, compared to conventional oil. Not really lining the pockets of anyone when you change oil 2 times a year compared to 4.
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The benefit to synthetics has been proven again and again, it's not really kool-aide when it's proven facts.

There is nothing wrong with conventional oils, I run them in my older Harley, my diesel pickup, all of our small engines, diesel trucks and equipment and pickups at work. So that's 15 trucks/equipment and IDK something like 2 dozen small engines that have run for years with the only failures being in small engines.

I won't however put a drop of conventional oil in my wifes '12 Traverse, not anywhere on the car. I'd have to look but her car may require Synthetic being used, a lot of newer cars do. All of the other fluids in my truck will be, or currently are synthetic also, it doesn't make much sense not to use them, aside from the transmission, they take very little quantity of fluid, last longer and hold up better, I tow a lot from early spring to late fall, it's a no brainier.


It's roughly $10 more for 5 gals of Mobile 1 at wally world, compared to conventional oil. Not really lining the pockets of anyone when you change oil 2 times a year compared to 4.
Stop drinking that Kool-Aid 1985GT.... :biggrin2:

With today's excellent conventional oils and much cleaner running engines, you can pretty well do the same mileage on them as synthetic. I have never had an engine failure, and when my very high mileage cars depart, they still pure like a kitten and don't burn oil. I then have a few bucks left in my pocket to buy you some of the koolaid you drink. :biggrin2:
Lets address your comments in order.

First off, perhaps you have heard the saying that "Correlation does not imply Causation"? Its a statement used to demonstrate one does not necessarily cause another and especially in this circumstance with a minuscule sample size.

If we used your "logic" the 4Runner that I have with nearly 300K in mileage on it would all but mandate the usage of synthetics.

You are apparently not familiar with automobile construction and more particularly engine construction. Nothing about the combustion engine has changed when it comes to the fundamentals of the Otto 4-cycle. Fuel is injected, air and fuel compressed, burned, power stroke, blah, blah, blah.

The cleanliness of engines today has most to do with the injection, metering of fuel, and exhaust treatment.

The internals of the motor and the contamination of the oils via combustion blow by, mixture of combustion by products, vaporization and combustion of engine oil, etc.

These are the items that "contaminate" oil and they are the same regardless of the motor.

Engines today are, if anything, harder on motor oils that before. We run higher compression, use less fuel and crappier fuel at that, have tighter tolerances, burn hotter (emissions), and rev them higher.

These combustion byproducts acidify in the engine oil and are the reason that TBN (Total Base Number) is partially important as it indicates a resistance to acid formation.

The high heat and tightness of tolerances mean that an oil with a greater volatility resistance is less likely to burn off and form deposits on the ringlands and other internal surfaces.

The exact tolerances require and oil that will flow well when cold and not thin when at temperature.

In summary, you want an oil that will:

  • resist acid formation
  • flow when cold
  • maintain thickness when hot
  • and has good wear metals
Synthetics almost universally do this better depending on the comparison.



Comparing the relative small offset in cost between the two, it is an easy choice for most folks that change their own oil and maintain their vehicles. Obviously dealer mark up and the premium that is charged on synthetics skews the numbers a bit.



On my vehicle, lets assume it has had 60 oil changes at 5,000 miles (i.e. 300K mileage).



A good conventional is about $5-6 per quart and I pay $8 per quart for the best synthetic I can get. 6 quarts per complete change. That is a whopping $720 in total cost differential over 300,000 miles.



I have saved that in fuel costs alone between that comparison and had I used the extended drain intervals that they call for, I would be saving about $400 as compared to a conventional oil.



Hope this gives you some information to make an informed decision on for future consideration.
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I wonder who took longer to write their post? :whistling2:

FYI Mobile 1 at wally world 5 qts, is $26.xx That is about the only use I have for wally world is the oil is cheap there. I buy my truck oil there, Delo 400 or whatever, and when I don't have service from a dealer free of charge I'll be buying the oil for her's there. I wish they had more of a selection of gear, and transmission oils.

at $8 a quart, are you using amsoil or royal purple? :devil3:
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Amsoil.

I love Mobil 1, its just easier for me to order Amsoil for all the trucks at the office and just snag what I need off the shelf.

Mobil 1 is just as good if you ask me and the 5 quart jug at Walmart is the best deal going.
I've looked in to being an Amsoil dealer a few times. I know I could sell enough of it a year to have my oil changes paid for plus some.

For some reason I'm hesitant on putting synthetic in my Duramax, I don't have a real good reason why but I am. I've almost convinced my self to use it the next oil change. I'll make the decision when that time comes.

For the work truck I just call O'reilly's and have them deliver 6 cases of 5-30 a time. For the Diesels I get a 55 gallon drum of Rotella, easy to use up when one truck takes 5 gallons a oil change.
Rotella is really good stuff either way.

You can buy the preferred customer option too. Gives you near dealer pricing.
1985, I run Mobil Delvac in my 2010, F350, 6.4l. Even though its more than Mobil 1, oil is cheap.
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