DIY Home Improvement Forum banner

Epoxy for Mitered Edge

277 Views 15 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  jeffnc
I cut mitered edges for tiles on a long shower shelf in my bathroom. For my first time cutting mitered edges, I'm happy with the results!

The tile is laid and the mitered edge is ready to be filled.
I've watched a few videos on using Epoxy to edge mitered tile, and it looks fairly straightforward.
The problem is that I don't know how to purchase it without making a big investment.

I'll need the adhesive base, hardener, and some color matching dyes.
A video I watched showed "Superior V-Max SV-9" base
I wondered if there were any more recco's for small-quantity epoxy kits.

My tile is marble, off-white.
Appreciate any links, brands, or even alternatives.
1 - 16 of 16 Posts

· Naildriver
Joined
·
23,268 Posts
There should be no reason to use epoxy in your tile work. You may want to post pictures of this so we can see what you see.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I've been told I should just caulk it - not sure about that.
I've watched a few videos showing an Epoxy process like this one:

Apologies for not knowing the basics - is epoxy grout the same thing as the epoxy in the video above?
  • Can you still color match epoxy grout?
  • Is epoxy grout sanded?
  • Do I have to seal the marble tile before I apply epoxy?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
456 Posts
I'd find a good epoxy grout that is suitable for narrow joints.
I've butted straight cuts with colorized epoxy like your video, but that was to simulate a solid piece of granite using thin slabs. That joint in your pic is fine but it is not going to disappear so don't try.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
456 Posts
oh absolutely grout there. That is not the bottom of a wall run at the pan, think of that as a little shelf or niche.
I caulk the bottom of the wall to the pan area 100% of the time, but that little mid wall jog? Grout just like a niche or any other field tile joint.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
9,164 Posts
There is no need for anything epoxy in there.

Out of curiosity, it looks like you're mixing Kerdi and RedGard - why is that?

That is a standard corner that should be grouted with the standard grout that's used in the rest of the shower. The concept of caulking rather than grouting changes in plane really doesn't apply to situations like that. Furthermore, Kerdi showers, i.e. ones built with actual Kerdi Board as yours appears to be, normally doesn't need this precaution anyway because of the buffering movement inherent in the Kerdi foam itself. With hard cement board you have somewhat of a different situation. There is some uncoupling inherent with the Kerdi Board (and other Kerdi foam materials), just like there is with Ditra.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
There is no need for anything epoxy in there.

Out of curiosity, it looks like you're mixing Kerdi and RedGard - why is that?

That is a standard corner that should be grouted with the standard grout that's used in the rest of the shower. The concept of caulking rather than grouting changes in plane really doesn't apply to situations like that. Furthermore, Kerdi showers, i.e. ones built with actual Kerdi Board as yours appears to be, normally doesn't need this precaution anyway because of the buffering movement inherent in the Kerdi foam itself. With hard cement board you have somewhat of a different situation. There is some uncoupling inherent with the Kerdi Board (and other Kerdi foam materials), just like there is with Ditra.
Thanks!!
Appreciate the info re: Kerdi and it's flexibility.
I assumed something like that, but cool to hear it from someone else.

About the Kerdi + RedGuard... My next-door neighbor gave me a big bucket of opened Red Guard - "use it or lose it" situation. That stuff is so expensive, I couldn't bring myself to throw it away.

So the consensus seems to be that I can grout that mitered joint just like the rest of the shower.
That's definitely the easiest thing to do.
Just wanted to make sure I'm maximizing that mitered edge's strength, hiding my imperfections and making it look as good as possible.

If I DO choose epoxy, epoxy grout is recommended over a general stone epoxy adhesive.

Am I missing anything?
Thanks - Like always, appreciate this community
 

· Naildriver
Joined
·
23,268 Posts
You may not like epoxy grout. Think "bondo", which is epoxy. I am not sure that is a good correlation, but I don't think you will benefit from straying from normal grout application even in this area since you used Kerdi.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
You may not like epoxy grout. Think "bondo", which is epoxy. I am not sure that is a good correlation, but I don't think you will benefit from straying from normal grout application even in this area since you used Kerdi.
Yeah, never used epoxy for anything in my life.
What I liked about the idea of epoxy was the ability to "work it" - polish & shape it.
I would go for a nicely rounded, perfect edge since that shelf is such a feature of my shower.

But I have no experience, and if grout can get me a great look with much less hassle, I'm down for that.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
9,164 Posts
If I DO choose epoxy, epoxy grout is recommended over a general stone epoxy adhesive.
I would say so, but I still wouldn't bother with epoxy grout. However if you wanted to shape and polish something, then yeah I'd go with epoxy. I do understand your concern, as cleaning out too much grout on mitered tile corners has been a problem for me in the past. You could try taping the edges so there's not much grout to clean off, and shaping the grout with your fingers. Use a fairly stiff mix, don't get it to fluid. Then lightly smooth it out with a wet finger or softly with a sponge.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top