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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,
I search the forums and didn't find a resolution, so hoping one of you experts have some suggestions.

Have a single arm gate opener. The batteries were replaced a few months ago, and just started having problems opening and closing the gate.

On the control panel, I notice the motor fuse blew. I replaced (8A 125V) and the gate opened, but the fuse blew again.

All the LEDs indicate health and the motor did run. I WD-40 the gear in the arm.

Anything else I can try?

Thanks,
 

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I am either confused or unknowledgeable (probably just dumb)..:wink2:

What batteries did you replace that supply 8A @120V...????

And when you say the motor fuse blew.... did you mean a reset button or an actual fuse dedicated to the motor protection.

That will help figure out whether a motor issue or circuit issue.
 

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Thanks OSO.... The fuse was 8A....

I don't have that much experience with gate openers... a couple of issues with HOA gates and recently my son's gate.

I did not realize any work on batteries, what kind of motor/ batteries (suppose really geared really really low?)....???????

Is this a driveway type gate???????? Am I still reading/assuming something wrong???

Just curious
 

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I would disconnect the arm, make sure the gate opens easily. I'd probably lube the gate with something better than WD40.

As you disconnect the arm, check the washer that is on top of the mounting bracket. Also check the condition of the washer. If damaged, I'd order a new one from Liftmaster. Reinstall the washer/arm.

Check the motor connections. Make sure they are clean and tight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sorry, fuse is unrelated to battery. Battery is a common trouble shooting item for this controller, the battery was replaced in Aug. Ran fine after that.

Now, seeing an issue where the 8A glass fuse is blowing when the remote triggers an operation.

I am either confused or unknowledgeable (probably just dumb)..:wink2:

What batteries did you replace that supply 8A @120V...????

And when you say the motor fuse blew.... did you mean a reset button or an actual fuse dedicated to the motor protection.

That will help figure out whether a motor issue or circuit issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks Oso.
The gate seems a bit tight, when I disconnected the arm manually swinging the gate took a bit more strength than I remember it needing. That's why I tried the WD-40.

I'll try the hinges and that washer you mentioned.

Is there a better lube that I should be using?

Thanks.

I would disconnect the arm, make sure the gate opens easily. I'd probably lube the gate with something better than WD40.

As you disconnect the arm, check the washer that is on top of the mounting bracket. Also check the condition of the washer. If damaged, I'd order a new one from Liftmaster. Reinstall the washer/arm.

Check the motor connections. Make sure they are clean and tight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'm not an electrician or anything, but would using a 10a fuse work?
Thinking I'm risking damage to the board if I tried that.

8A is 8A.
It's ok to use a 125v fuse at 12v, 24v, etc.
If you remember the glass tube fuses you used to have in your car/truck, a lot of them were 125v.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
glass fuse dedicated to protecting the motor.
Thanks.


I am either confused or unknowledgeable (probably just dumb)..:wink2:

What batteries did you replace that supply 8A @120V...????

And when you say the motor fuse blew.... did you mean a reset button or an actual fuse dedicated to the motor protection.

That will help figure out whether a motor issue or circuit issue.
 

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Do not increase the 8A fuse. It is protecting the motor like it is supposed to.
You need to find the problem that is causing the over amp draw.

As far as lubrication, it depends on the gate hinge type. In a sealed bearing hinge you would use a standard auto grease. There is often a zero fitting for a grease gun on the sealed bearings.
 

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When you say you disconnected the arm, what do you mean ?
I am not talking about using the key and pushing the gate open.

I mean disconnect the the arm where it connects to the gate bracket. Remove the nut and swing the arm out of the way. Then try opening the gate manually.

That way you can get an idea of how much resistance is in the gate itself vs the gate and operating arm combination.

Yes, I meant zerk, I got apple auto corrected and didn't see it.
 

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I did not realize any work on batteries, what kind of motor/ batteries (suppose really geared really really low?)....????
A lot of them work on batteries all the time and have essentially a wall wart to charge the batteries. Voltage varies, 12 and 24VDC are common. The motors match the selected voltage.

The OPs unit is a 24v unit. Has a 120vac/34vdc power supply. Multiple fuses in it. The 8amp is the motor circuit.

You would be surprised by the 1.5 and 3amp fuses on the other side of the board. They are 250v. :)

Oso
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Gotcha, let me try to disconnect the arm and try the zerk.
It's been raining non-stop, so would be good to get the gate working again.

Thanks to all for your insight.

When you say you disconnected the arm, what do you mean ?
I am not talking about using the key and pushing the gate open.

I mean disconnect the the arm where it connects to the gate bracket. Remove the nut and swing the arm out of the way. Then try opening the gate manually.

That way you can get an idea of how much resistance is in the gate itself vs the gate and operating arm combination.

Yes, I meant zerk, I got apple auto corrected and didn't see it.
 

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QUOTE [ The gate seems a bit tight, when I disconnected the arm manually swinging the gate took a bit more strength than I remember it needing.] END QUOTE.

Anything that makes it harder for the gate to open, will put more load on the motor, more load on the motor means it uses more power, in this case too much, this is why the fuse is blowing, look for any reason, usually dirt and gunk builds up, but things can also wear out. check them all, you will know when, by how easy the gate opens.
 
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