[anthony21078]

The ejector pump for my basement bathroom wasn't pumping. Thankfully this bathroom never gets used but every month or so I run the sink water through pump just to make sure I hear it working. Well today it wasn't moving water. The pump itself works when plugged directly into the outlet but when plugged into the switch plug, the pump will not turn on. So either the switch is faulty or the maybe the buoy is stuck, not sure just yet.

When I started to remove the coupler from the vent pipe, the base snapped off from the bolts and the lid is essentially rotted. At this point I stopped and I'm trying to figure my options.

First, I have no idea how old the pump is. House was built in 1987 and I bought 6 years ago. Pump could be from '87 for all I know but still works. I have no idea what material the the basin and lid are made of. If the lid is rotted like you can see in the pics, can I assume the basin will do the same? Im thinking once I remove the lid the whole unit is compromised and wont seal correctly.

Does this look like a complete overhaul and replacement of everything is needed? Any chance a new lid would be compatible and perhaps install a new swtich? I suppose I really need to take the whole lid off to see what Im working with but Im just throwing it out there.

If a new basin and pump is needed, any recommendations for good quality parts. Buy once, cry once

 

[Nealtw]

Modern sumps are plastic so it really depends on what you find below, you might find a lid that fits or can be made to fit but if the sump is rusted like the lid you will be into jack hammer work.

 

[anthony21078]

Modern sumps are plastic so it really depends on what you find below, you might find a lid that fits or can be made to fit but if the sump is rusted like the lid you will be into jack hammer work.

Yikes. I filled the tank with water in hopes that if anything was stuck it would loosen up and left the the pump unplugged. Went back down 45 min later and at least half the water was gone. Maybe its safe to assume the tank is rotted and leaking as well

 

[skyking1]

First, don't panic. The pump works when you bypass the float.
Fix the float and fix the lid with fiberglass and move on, or open up a can of worms if that is what you want to do.

 

[skyking1]

you posted while I was posting. That too can be lined in place.

 

[Matt1963]

If you cycle it 3 times or so it will be mostly water and not much poopoo.

Get the lid off and re-evaluate. The float or what you call the "buoy" might just have something on it.

If your current sump is big you might be able to slip a new plastic one inside.

 

[Nealtw]

Yikes. I filled the tank with water in hopes that if anything was stuck it would loosen up and left the the pump unplugged. Went back down 45 min later and at least half the water was gone. Maybe its safe to assume the tank is rotted and leaking as well

Get it open and cleaned out and then panic. Then look for suggestions.

 

[anthony21078]

Im going to remove the lid the tomorrow and see what Im working with. Ill report back

 

[Matt1963]

Let's hope your not squeamish!

 

[anthony21078]

Perhaps not as a terrible as expected. The lid was completely rotted. The tank itself appears to be in decent shape but I am no expert. I left it full with water overnight and its not leaking. I believe its made of fiberglass but not sure. When I applied pressure to the base of the tank with a pole it felt like it had a bubble in it (if that makes sense). Maybe its becoming brittle also?

When I put the float in the fully upright and upside position the pump turns on. However, I had the tank full with water before removing the pump and it would not activate. Maybe it was stuck?

The diameter of the lid is 20.75" and the inner diameter of the tank is 17.75". There are 4 bolt holes but there are no threads. Maybe this lid?

Everbilt 18 in. Basin Cover for Sump and Sewage Basins SF2000E - The Home Depot

The Everbilt 18 in. Sump and Sewage Basin Cover Kit will provide a gas tight fit to your Everbilt sump and/or sewage basin. The cover provides a seal protecting against noxious or radon gas. It also prevents

www.homedepot.com

So the pump works and the float works now but easy enough to replace since maybe its worn. Not sure of the pump age either. Clearly need a new lid.

As far as the float is concerned, why would it have been placed in a position that always leaves a minimum of 10-14" of liquids in the tank? What is optimal non-activated height?

 

[Nealtw]

I would scrub the area around that patch job and put a piece of blueskin over it.

 

[anthony21078]

I would scrub the area around that patch job and put a piece of blueskin over it.
View attachment 735466 View attachment 735467

I suppose your suggesting there is water leaking between the outlet and tank?

 

[Nealtw]

I suppose your suggesting there is water leaking between the outlet and tank?
View attachment 735495

If not now some time in the future, why wait for spring.

 

[Matt1963]

I think that lid might be just a hair to small. Look for bigger ones or just have an aluminum one custom cut....you can drill the pipe holes and they sell the grommets.

The float can work but have water in it so it won't float....I would replace everything. Pumps last an average of 7 years if used a lot and longer if not used much. The float itself you can lengthen a little to adjust your water height but with that float it would be easier to get stuck from crud. I like the Zoeller pumps with the built in switch.

 

[anthony21078]

I think that lid might be just a hair to small. Look for bigger ones or just have an aluminum one custom cut....you can drill the pipe holes and they sell the grommets.

The float can work but have water in it so it won't float....I would replace everything. Pumps last an average of 7 years if used a lot and longer if not used much. The float itself you can lengthen a little to adjust your water height but with that float it would be easier to get stuck from crud. I like the Zoeller pumps with the built in switch.

View attachment 735512

I bought that lid locally just to try. I knew it would be about 1/4" short for the overall diameter but I didnt know the lip on the bottom of the lid measures 18" and my tank is 17.75" so it wouldnt sit flush. I found a jackel lid that measures 17.75" for the lip so Im going to try that one.

The 4 existing holes on the tank have no threads. When the old lid came off the bolts were rusted and whatever type of threaded female adapter came out with the lid. Its just literally a hole and there is no concrete under the lip. Its just dirt. Im thinking maybe self taping screws through a new lid right through the lip with new holes.

Sewage Basin Cover w\ Discharge & Vent | Model: SF16101 | Jackel

Jackel Sewage Basin Cover w\ Discharge & Vent | Model: SF16101

jackel.com

 

[Nealtw]

I bought that lid locally just to try. I knew it would be about 1/4" short for the overall diameter but I didnt know the lip on the bottom of the lid measures 18" and my tank is 17.75" so it wouldnt sit flush. I found a jackel lid that measures 17.75" for the lip so Im going to try that one.

The 4 existing holes on the tank have no threads. When the old lid came off the bolts were rusted and whatever type of threaded female adapter came out with the lid. Its just literally a hole and there is no concrete under the lip. Its just dirt. Im thinking maybe self taping screws through a new lid right through the lip with new holes.

Sewage Basin Cover w\ Discharge & Vent | Model: SF16101 | Jackel

Jackel Sewage Basin Cover w\ Discharge & Vent | Model: SF16101

jackel.com

View attachment 735594

Can you post a close up of where you would like to have bolts for the lid,

 

[anthony21078]

Can you post a close up of where you would like to have bolts for the lid,

There are 4 holes but nothing else, just holes. Perhaphs some type of anchor could be placed in there or I can use screws in new locations.

 

[Nealtw]

There are 4 holes but nothing else, just holes. Perhaphs some type of anchor could be placed in there or I can use screws in new locations.

View attachment 735605
View attachment 735604

You may want a small bead of silicone to go with the screws and add weight on top for a day.
How to Unseal and Reseal Your Ground Water Sump Pit - YouTube

 

[Matt1963]

Don't use the holes just some aggressive screws right through the plastic.

 

[anthony21078]

I ordered this lid from Jackel and it came with a rubber seal. Considering I will have to screw this lid onto the existing tank, should I be using this seal or just silcone like in the video posted above?