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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi. So all you amazing people who have helped me along the way...today was the day of finally putting in the new vanity (we decided to just get help). I now realize I made a big mistake and I’m so angry at myself for not thinking about. When I tiled the wall, I didn’t think about ensuring the wall where the vanity will meet the wall is perfectly straight and aligned (I think you call it a plumb wall). In retrospect, I should’ve joint compounded there and measured/used a level to make sure it would be a perfect puzzle piece fit with the vanity. Come to think of it, maybe the vanity is not straight. Anyhow regardless, what can I do at this point to fix this?!?! The guys are still here installing, so at this point the solutions have to be something with the vanity in place.

the ends sit well against the wall and as you move to the center the gap is the biggest (my fingers fit into there). The back of the vanity has a “gap ridge” from the countertop to the vanity frame. Obviously need to silicone caulk, but the gap is way too big.

only things I can come up with:
1/ figure out some filler and caulk over that - but not confident I can come up with something that will look good
2/ install a short backsplash the length of the vanity to the walll...but I guess this doesn’t solve the problem, and it’s really not the “look” that I like/wanted

Ugh...so upset and freaking out.
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First off don't beat yourself up there isn't a wall I've ever seen that is perfectly flat and level, and plumb. Installed a vanity a couple weeks ago that had this exact issue. For me, it wasn't as large a gap so used backer rod and caulked, his it pretty well.

For yours, since it's on legs and appears to be all across the top edge, I'm wondering if you can't put the front of the vanity legs up on some furniture pads or something to boost it up by 1/8 or so. Obviously you don't want it looking goofy but I would give it a shot.

Then, backer rod and caulk the rest.

Hope this helps/sure others will have ideas.

B

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Don't guess you would consider a backsplash?
Yeah, thanks Mike. I think you sorta know me by now. Haha...since you ended that with a ? Mark. No backsplash...or REALLY don’t want to go there.

Remove tile and drywall to allow the legs to fit in.
View attachment 646190
Yeah, I considered this, but it’s too much work and since I don’t have the $$ to have this guy come back again...don’t think this is an option. Since I’m paying him for the install & plumbing hookup... :(

First off don't beat yourself up there isn't a wall I've ever seen that is perfectly flat and level, and plumb.
Thanks B. You make me feel a bit better. I’m not sure I understand what raising it will do? Is this in hopes that the wall just a tad up will be more plumb?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So busy researching away. So the widest gap is 6.5/16” (0.4 in) towards the center. The right corner fits perfectly flush but I did now notice a small gap at the left corner. I’m thinking I need some sort of backer rod filler, and then use black silicone caulk? Just another feat to get a perfect line 😕 (memories of my black trim against the white walls).

does this sound right? I found some people saying to add trim tile (like you would using 1/4 round for the floor)...but think that would look horrible. But here’s a side view to show the “gap ridge” of the vanity frame/countertop. Not sure if I can/should do anything with this as a solution.
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Well, that's not as bad as I thought. I personally would go with a backer rod in the widest area and tape both sides of the gap and put a black siliconized caulk in there. Smooth the caulk well because the design of the sink to the stand opens you up to frequent cleaning.
 

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Yeah, thanks Mike. I think you sorta know me by now. Haha...since you ended that with a ? Mark. No backsplash...or REALLY don’t want to go there.


Yeah, I considered this, but it’s too much work and since I don’t have the $$ to have this guy come back again...don’t think this is an option. Since I’m paying him for the install & plumbing hookup... :(


Thanks B. You make me feel a bit better. I’m not sure I understand what raising it will do? Is this in hopes that the wall just a tad up will be more plumb?
Never mind my idea it was just to tilt the whole thing back a bit, but seeing the shot from the side its just some uneven gaps along the back, would just caulk that...

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok. Need to think this through but thank you guys for the advice. I’m now just afraid if the black caulk will just accentuate the gap since you’ll have thinner black at the ends coming in into the center with a lot of black.

On a side note, need advice with the faucet handles.
1/ there’s a tiny gap under the hot base to the countertop...is this Ok? Afraid of what’ll happen with all the water over time. But this isn’t normally a place you should caulk, Right?

2/ the hot/cold tabs are just adhesive buttons. There’s a slight gap due to the size variance, and I’m worried about the water that’ll get trapped in there and possibly go down into the valve assembly. Same thing here, caulk is a bad idea, right? But otherwise what should I do? Or do I hope the adhesive will
Create enough of a seal? (FYI - I actually had the buttons on and then removed because I have different ones I bought to use...and there was a ring of water In there)
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
From the one picture, it seems the wooden base is against the wall. What is preventing the sink top from sliding back to the wall?
If I understand the question, take a look at the photo that gives the direct side view. It’s because the sink countertop is affixed into the steel frame (that’s how it came), so you can’t shift the countertop. Is this what you’re talking about? Here’s a picture of the front corner...it’s the countertop, set into the steel frame, and filled with something (a caulk-like material).
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My only suggestion if you want to not have a gap (which it does have by design - the base is against the wall) is to paint a small board (1/2"-3/4" x 2" +/-) to match the wood base and slip it in behind the top, and then neatly caulk it along the wall and the back of the sink.

If you mounted a mirror with a thick frame or a medicine cabinet that is as wide or wider than the sink top, you could run a board or panel up to the bottom of the frame or cabinet.

Home Depot has 1/2" black poly panels that I think could make a sharp looking backsplash.

The other option is to leave it alone, realizing that it's supposed to have a gap. If the gap is wider at one end, and that is what is bothering you, you can free the top from the base, add some caulking on the frame under the sink top, and align it with wall.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
My only suggestion if you want to not have a gap (which it does have by design - the base is against the wall) is to paint a small board (1/2"-3/4" x 2" +/-) to match the wood base and slip it in behind the top, and then neatly caulk it along the wall and the back of the sink.

If you mounted a mirror with a thick frame or a medicine cabinet that is as wide or wider than the sink top, you could run a board or panel up to the bottom of the frame or cabinet.

Home Depot has 1/2" black poly panels that I think could make a sharp looking backsplash.

The other option is to leave it alone, realizing that it's supposed to have a gap. If the gap is wider at one end, and that is what is bothering you, you can free the top from the base, add some caulking on the frame under the sink top, and align it with wall.
Thx for the ideas here. I want to make sure I’m following everyone’s suggestions...Hotrod, want to clarify that I’m not concerned about the gap from the white countertop to the wall (red circle in the photo), but it’s the gap between the black steel frame to the wall (blue circle, and then reference photos up in a previous reply).
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
CD
In honesty, the design of the thing makes it look worse than it is. If I was designing the thing I would have made the sink and back of the vanity frame flush.
yeah, I quite agree...but sadly was at the point of no return. I considered even ripping out the countertop and getting a new one custom made and inserted...but just way out of the budget at this point. So I have to live with it and hope to figure out the best fix to make it good enough where it won’t bother me every day. Haha
 

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The gap is that the wall is not plumb and/or (likely a combo), the steel frame might also not be perfectly straight. And I didn’t think of this before tiling the wall :(
My guess would be that the frame is straight and the wall is not. Not much you can do about either one, though. You should check whether the top is level from front to back. If it slopes to the front, you can shim up the front legs, so that it's level and that should allow the top of the frame to get closer to the wall.

If that doesn't work, or it would throw it out of level, I suggest looking at how the legs are attached and see if there's a way to get that back left leg adjusted so the top of the frame can sit against the wall. It might be as simple as bending it forward a little.
 

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So given the design of the vanity, you're simply going to have water collect back there. Not a great design, honestly.

The gap doesn't look very big. Might not even need backer rod, but you could definitely try that. Black caulk would probably look best. You'd want to run a sponge through there to get a clean line, which might be your biggest challenge since the tile is textured.

Have you thought of doing a backsplash with the exact same tile, and trimming it out in some complementary pencil tile? That could actually look pretty cool.
 
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