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Economical concrete placement in enclosed building.

1903 Views 17 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  Vince86
Seems this will be an issue. building is 60x100. Will have 1, 12x14 OH door and some window openings around the building. Due to having foam under slab and radiant tube, I cannot back a truck into the building.

Every finisher I have talked to pretty much does not want the job, quoting nearly what the concrete costs just to place and finish.


What I need to do is spoon feel the concrete team by working out this placement problem. I have not worked around pump trucks much but one guy mentioned if the flex tube is too long, the rock likes to try and separate from the portand. Don't need that.


Due to a strict air barrier detail in the exterior of the building, I cannot just peel off roofing. I know there is a way. I am not the first person to pour a floor in a building.

Obviously, I can throw enough dollars at the problem that I can hand 100 men 5gal buckets and we got it but I don't have bottomless pockets.
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Sounds like you need a line pump. Let the redi mix company know you'll be pumping the concrete.
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Seems this will be an issue. building is 60x100. Will have 1, 12x14 OH door and some window openings around the building. Due to having foam under slab and radiant tube, I cannot back a truck into the building.

Every finisher I have talked to pretty much does not want the job, quoting nearly what the concrete costs just to place and finish.


What I need to do is spoon feel the concrete team by working out this placement problem. I have not worked around pump trucks much but one guy mentioned if the flex tube is too long, the rock likes to try and separate from the portand. Don't need that.


Due to a strict air barrier detail in the exterior of the building, I cannot just peel off roofing. I know there is a way. I am not the first person to pour a floor in a building.

Obviously, I can throw enough dollars at the problem that I can hand 100 men 5gal buckets and we got it but I don't have bottomless pockets.


He's probably talking about a boom pump, as previous poster said you need a line pump for what your doing, just be sure the pumper can pump 3/4" aggregate, not all pumps are created equal, i've shipped thousands of yards of concrete to these pumps with no problems, and pumping a 100 ft is nothing, a good operator that knows what he's doing is a big help also, the concrete supplier needs to know your pumping so the mix design can be adjusted.


Forgot to say a flex line is not needed on a line pump.
The concrete company should be able to tell you who can do a job like that.
Thanks guys. As far ad "adjustments", is this a slump adjustment? I need maximum performance from this floor so would like to carefully select mix and slump. Hoping I don't take a hit due to the pump requirement?
Expecting maximum concrete performance with foam underlayment and radiant tube. Have you considered this may be the reason why every finisher is turning the job down.
Thanks guys. As far ad "adjustments", is this a slump adjustment? I need maximum performance from this floor so would like to carefully select mix and slump. Hoping I don't take a hit due to the pump requirement?


No it's not, it's an aggregate adjustment, what PSI do you need, a 4" line should be able to pump a 4" slump.

Talk mix and slump with your supplier,better yet consult a testing lab.
The guys I plan to work with have an in-house test lab so they should be able to help. a std 3500psi concrete should work fine. I just don't want to run down to 6" slump just to pump it. I believe they could kick in a plasticizer but I doubt I wanna pay for it.
The guys I plan to work with have an in-house test lab so they should be able to help. a std 3500psi concrete should work fine. I just don't want to run down to 6" slump just to pump it. I believe they could kick in a plasticizer but I doubt I wanna pay for it.

Then your good to go, you don't need a plasticizer, you can go with a 5 1/4 bag mix with a water reducing agent, and get 3750psi then if the slump needs to be raised your still in your 3500psi range, and the 3750 with water reducer will be cheaper than the 3500psi.because it is 5 1/2 bag.
Thanks. I am still at a point of calculating some things for the concrete. Just more complicated due to that stupid foam under it but I gotta have it. I hope my hours burned running numbers works out. I don't want to walk on that slab with 80k lbs of forklift and pop it.

Wish I could get my hands on an old IR compactor I ran on a bridge job for a month. Sweetheart had variable frequency and amplitude and I could make dirt hard enough to do a burnout on. Big sewer job.
Every finisher I have talked to pretty much does not want the job, quoting nearly what the concrete costs just to place and finish.

It's not that they don't want the job, they just don't want to do it for nothing. I probably wouldn't do it for concrete cost either.

The logistics aren't that hard on this really, pumping would work ok. When we've done them in the past, we've used the power buggy over plywood w/o problems.
Thanks. I am still at a point of calculating some things for the concrete. Just more complicated due to that stupid foam under it but I gotta have it. I hope my hours burned running numbers works out. I don't want to walk on that slab with 80k lbs of forklift and pop it.

Wish I could get my hands on an old IR compactor I ran on a bridge job for a month. Sweetheart had variable frequency and amplitude and I could make dirt hard enough to do a burnout on. Big sewer job.

"I don't want to walk on that slab with 80k lbs of forklift and pop it."

That's the reason to get a lab involved, so that doesn't happen, a properly prepared sub base is paramount, along with control joints to insure it only cracks where you want it to.
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jomama - I am curious what the capacity is on the buggies? I have used them for a few things but not a big pour. Can you place crete pretty quick with those or is a line pump the better way? 120yd pour.
jomama - I am curious what the capacity is on the buggies? I have used them for a few things but not a big pour. Can you place crete pretty quick with those or is a line pump the better way? 120yd pour.
Speaking from a plumbers view, a buggy running on top of tubing scares me. Even with plywood.
The recommendations for a line pump are spot on.
The extruded foam is becoming a standard in my area, and at times where the boom truck is not feasible, we use a line pump operation and they coordinate directly with the concrete company.
The last time I did any work with them was on an addition with zero access. We contacted the line pump company, they came to the site and looked over the plans, specs, and considered what their requirements for access would be.
Ultimately they decided on running the line from the driveway, through the home, and into the addition. The discussion with the concrete company led to a 3500psi mix, with a smaller aggregate blend... I think they went with 3/8.
The total run was close to 90' I think.
Those buggies hold about 15/16 cu. ft. or better than a half yd. 27 cu. ft. to a yd.

I agree with Eplumber.
Hmmm . . . Seems an interesting subject for DIY forum.

What's the building for? Why do you want a radiant floor? I recall the greatest loss for concrete slabs is at the perimeter. I suspect you can limit heat loss enough for comfort conditions with under layment and flooring. As an HVAC engineer, I always design for low wall returns in high ceiling areas. This "sweeps" the floor of cold air and typically solves stratification issues.

That said, I think you're talking to the wrong contractors. I recall an in-floor tubing product specifically designed to accommodate cement truck and traffic with rebar during installation. A google search should reveal options.

I also suspect a local civil engineer can provide you with a slab design, details and specs for your need within a day for $1,200 or so for contractor compliance to your desires.
Do you have a photo of the building?

Regards,
Vince
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