[Gary in WA]

1300 sq.ft........ you will be there for hours just setting the tape by hand; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HriKOf4aMZk

Tips: http://bestdrywall.com/files/ReduceCallbacks.pdf

http://www.finehomebuilding.com/PDF/Free/021174058.pdf

http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/how-to/tips/invisible-drywall-butt-joints.aspx

Fastener length, floating walls/ceilings, board orientation, thickness, etc.: http://gypsum.org/pdf/GA-216-2010.html

Minimum Code: http://publicecodes.citation.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_7_sec002_par010.htm

If using hot mud, I have a time-saver step, if interested....

Gary

 

[Gary in WA]

Sorry, 12penny, my e-mail gets to me two DAYS after posting......Earthlink.
When I use hot (chemical or setting type vs. air drying, regular) mud, I need to get as much coverage as possible for that smaller job visit. I use paper tape on everything, with both muds because it's stronger and will cover a crack underneath better than fiber mesh tape.http://www.usg.com/rc/technical-articles/drywall-finishing-technical-guide-en-J1190.pdf

http://www.usg.com/rc/data-submitta...tapes-industrial-construction-data-MH1178.pdf
So I wanted a time-saver in applying paper tape with hot mud rather than mix, apply mud, apply tape, apply more mud. I use a plastic tray combo by cutting this down the center: http://www.harborfreight.com/multipurpose-tool-tray-92229.html
The two smaller leave joined, melt a slit with a soldering gun at the bottom sides of one and one end of the second. The paper tape roll sits in one, feeds through the slot below through both slots in the other. Add hot mud to the top already mixed loose pancake consistency in the empty tray, pull tape through; it wets the side that goes to the wall/ceiling before applying. I pull 25-35’ through, layering it on another box tray I attach to my belt at my side, on top of itself so no dry spots (wet to wet like wallpaper). Go to ceiling with 6” knife (trowel) in one hand, stick tape, pull tight with other hand at arms reach to snap-it on drywall, move another arms reach, snap again, etc, cut end with blade, do another joint, etc., then wipe with blade to seat tape-never air bubbles because of mud consistency and coverage from going through trough. The other long tray has a wooden block in the bottom (inverted “V” shaped like the corner bead, keeps the mud from under it) with slots melted for the angle of the outside papered bead. Pull the c.b. through, stick on corner, quick smooth, apply top coat of hot mud, second coat, then drying mud. The two-tray fits in a 5 gal. bucket to easily clean with a car wash brush, long stiff bristles to reach the corners. This is instead of banjo…….. You save the first mud applying step with trowel. Your arm is ½ as tired, get more work done in same time.

Do you need home-made zip poles to contain the dust……….

Gary