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My builder is using Menard's Tywrap for housewrap instead of Dupont Tyvek. Should I be concerned? Ours is the only house in the subdivision using Tywrap.
 

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You had sure better be concerned. You're going to stick out like a sore thumb!

Years from now, when your children drive to school in their suv's, people will point at them and say, "those are the kids from the house with the weird wrap."

Why don't you look up the specs on the housewrap and see how it compares?
 

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Menard's does not make house wrap, buy enough of it and they will print anything you want on it.
Lot's of bigger companys have there name printed on it, acts like a giant bill board while the house is being built.
I'd be more concered on how it's installed then who made it.
Move on to something else to worry about.
 
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Pretty sure Menards pushes Typar, rather than Tyvek, and from what I can tell, many folks believe the Typar is actually superior overall.........
 

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I feel there is a big difference.

Where are you located?

Describe the wall make-up including the siding...

Gary
 

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I hope we didn't scare you off, are you still around, Beveritt?

Gary
PS. Welcome to the forum!
 
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Well, for others reading, I will share some info I found a while ago... Kirk, that looks pretty good, other than they compared Tyvek Commercial (28 perms) to their product rather than Tyvek (residential) 58 perms, though that wouldn't look so good... unless a commercial product only.

Tyvek (58 perms) is very open, Typar (11.7 perms) is open.

Here is a test that matches an earlier lab test where no difference in WRB's exists. In FL, not somewhere with a lot of rain, and injected water, not under a leaking window flashing; pp. 15 and 18; http://www.buildingscience.com/docu...nce-hot-humid-climates-real-weather-real-time

Snippet from a report sited on pp. 24;

"A laboratory and modeling research program on wall drying in hot and humid climates identified
air leakage and point source water intrusion as prime contributors to moisture accumulation in
wall systems. The research cites two studies, one that reports air leakage accounting for 6 to
100 times as much moisture transfer as vapor diffusion, and another that concludes that point
source water intrusion accounting for 20 times the moisture associated with air infiltration, while
air infiltration accounts for 25 times the moisture movement associated with diffused moisture
(Boone, 2004). This study also compared drying rates of OSB samples inside WRBs with
various perm ratings in a controlled laboratory environment. In addition, it included
hygrothermal modeling of wall assemblies with vinyl siding and different WRB options. The
study concluded that at laboratory conditions of 75ºF and 55% RH, the breakpoint for promoting
drying a wet OSB specimen was between 18 and 24 perms." Found here; http://www.energy.ca.gov/2007public...achment_14_Impact_of_Title_24_Residential.pdf

IMO, if I have a water leak at siding, I'd rather have it open enough than closed too much in the permeability ratings... at 90%RH to dry in 8 days vs 27 days (pp.13 Fig.14), or 55-75%RH (pp.15, Fig. 15); http://repository.tamu.edu/bitstream/handle/1969.1/4625/ESL-HH-04-05-25.pdf?sequence=4

Of course, OSB vs. plywood makes a big difference, as does a water reservoir siding on a HW. Or just use Advantech sheathing.....if it gets wet... anyone have any idea how vapor open (perm rating) that is?
I used to think it was 16 perms, listed by them for the barrier coating, but...

Gary





http://www2.dupont.com/Tyvek_Weathe...DBI16325_TechTalk_Zip_me01_ForPrint_948_0.pdf Lol, we're going to see a lot of problems/complaints/questions on the forums in a few years, from the heating climates...
 

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the other thing with tyvek and typar not mentioned is that you cant use wood siding and stucco cant come in direct contact with it, the oils in cedar destroy the building papers ability to water proof, thus a proper rain screen being installed being that much more important. the type of rain screen install can vary depending on the type of siding being installed
 

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Thanks @woodworkbykirk! If I am not mistaken you are using the VaproShield WrapShieldIT on a project in the south end of Halifax. How do you like it?
 

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Thanks @woodworkbykirk! If I am not mistaken you are using the VaproShield WrapShieldIT on a project in the south end of Halifax. How do you like it?

howd ya know.
its more durable than tyvek and typar, doesnt make you snow blind when its sunny out.. its doesnt take flashing tape too well. even with primer blueskin type prodcuts dont really stick.. the corner detail pieces for rough openings are terrible.. their too bulky and dont fold clean which makes shimming more difficult to get them in under sils. a standard blueskin/vycor drip pan works much better
 

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they both perform about the same their just made slightly differently so they cant be accused of remarketing the same product.

a higher performance product is known as wrapshield. it comes with all its own window detailing peices. however its much more expensive

http://vaproshield.com/products/wrapshield
Thanks for the feedback. We should meet up

We have really moved away from using tapes and corners. We prefer to use sealants in place of tape and a product called LiquiFlash for windows. Check out or blog (your project is in there :no:) for some local project pics showing what I am talking about.

http://keelagencies.tumblr.com/
 

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ahh ok.. i looked at your page, i know jonathon of designed for living and ive seen the other residential company around but dont know much about them


our crew is kinda curious about the rain screen system being used for that cedar shingle installation.. personally i try to keep on top of all the new products out but its so hard since theres so many and there not available through our lumber yard all the time

i will note i am with topsail doing that south end job however we are subbing off of the main contractor. our spec is handling the siding potion of the job
 
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