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Ducane Gas Furance with Honeywell Ingnition Not Firing...

8012 Views 33 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  BDPNA
My Ducane gas furnace is refusing to light, and it's getting COLD in here! Would love to call a tech but all are on emergency-only service for the holidays and I just can't afford that right now. Any suggestions on getting it to light, even just once would be great!

Some background - 13 year old natural gas furnace, brand new with house. A couple months ago I noticed that the pilot was kicking on and I heard flame/heat for about 2-3 seconds, then I'd hear another noticeable click and it would shut off. Main circulation fan would never start. After disconnecting some cables and troubleshooting, it just sort of started working again. Fast forward to today...

The unit turns on but only the small fan in the middle, and I don't hear the honeywell ignition unit (upper center in photo) clicking or trying to fire at all now.



Last night, a friend advised that I look in the exhaust hose trap from that smaller black fan inside the unit (that t-junction down on the lower right), sure enough, sucker was full of water! I siphoned that all out of there and re-connected but still, no luck -- After that last night I did hear it attempt to fire up once again (the pilot) but now, when I turn the power back on, the inner fan runs, but I don't even hear the pilot attempting to light/click at all anymore.

Anything safe I can try to get some heat going for Christmas? I'd be most grateful.

Oh another question as well - Am I potentially doing harm to myself or the system to leave it running without the pilot lighting and heat flowing? Any gas risk by this happening? I don't smell gas but I assume it's flowing and without it being lit I'm not sure about the safety risk.

I'm not sure if this would have had any effect on why the igniter isn't even trying to start anymore, but a couple times I got lazy when I wanted to unplug a few things and shut off the unit using the red emergency shut off switch on the wall next to the unit. I've got it back on now, and am using the breaker to shut off power to the unit now when I am messing with it, but is it possible I have to reset something elsewhere since I had used that red emergency shutoff switch? Or a particular order I need to power/switch stuff back on? It's peculiar because yesterday, the Honeywell auto-ignite was at least trying to fire from the sound of it, today, it's not even trying at all.

Any help during this holiday weekend would be most appreciated!!!

B.
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Thats because the trap is supposed to have water in it. Its a trap. Without water, your pressure switch is not closing due to no drop in air pressure. Turn off red switch. fill the trap. Carefully pull off, clean and tighten if necessary all spade connectors everywhere. Loosen (Dont Remove) screws on main control board where wires attach one at a time clean and put back, CRC QD electronic cleaner is great here, and usually available a wally world spray and retighten wires. Try all this then turn on switch and have somebody else turn up stat while you look through that site glass there. If the same thing happens, come back and tell us exactly what happened. Turn off lights while you look and listen for clicks and other indicators, and when they occur. Then come back and tell us what you observed. Yuri is correct, of course, but you sound stuck, so we will try to help till you can call in a pro for a complete check up.
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Sounds like a dirty flame sensor. Yuri posted a picture of what it looks like on the post that has Nordyne in it.

Are all of your burners lit off and burning a nice blue controlled jet? If so, clean that flame sensor that looks like a finishing nail with steel wool or emery. Use a Brillo pad in a pinch. Re-install and hook up after spraying the connection with that cleaner and come back let us know what happens. Make sure that plug is fully seated.

Im amazed you did all that so fast!
Nothing wrong with being careful. No you do not have to turn off the gas unless it would make you feel better. Just make sure that the flame sensor is in the flame patch when you put it back in. It should auto-locate by the screw and an alignment pin. Dont forget to spray and check the plug for soundness, and proper insulation. (No bare wire grounding etc.)
If thats where the burners are, Thats where the flame sensor is. Do yourself a favor. Take a break and your model number and google that model number. Give it to us too. We may be able to look at a service manual and see where the flame sensor is. Your picture cuts off the top of the furnace but it looks like you need to back out those 7/16 or 1/2 inch tapping bolts to get that cover off.
See I told you Yuri would know. My unit is a Carrier and really easy to get to. I guess good engineering costs. Do what Yuri tells you from here on out. Im sure he has forgotten more than I will ever know about furnaces.
Yeah Yuri,

Roofing is kind of a Black Hole. (Pun Intended) Not sure what a "Fabric" roof is, Maybe a reinforced single Ply. They will be OK for 20 or so years if it is Fibertite or another good membrane.

The thing with commercial roofing is that once you bag a couple of decent sized projects $500,000.00+ its hard to walk away. :whistling2:

Have a Great Christmas and NY
Well it sure as heck isnt 16, or 20 oz. Copper, DAS-A-FA-SHOE!

Of course with all the acid rain the US sends up to Canada they would have been better off with LCC. :huh:
Did you get your problem resolved? Pex SUpply is really good for parts.
Yuri, You need to write a book! I would buy the first Hard copy straight away!
Hope the repairman has one, and is willing to hook it up? Your kidding, right? :huh:

What is he, the HVAC Nazi?
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