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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I would like to know if anyone has Drywalled there Basement and if you insurated it ? What did you use for insuration? Did you put plastic on the warmside of the wall? This I disagree with because I had to take off all the Wood Paneling because who ever did it put styrofoam on the block walls than put plastic on the styrofoam than the wood paneling guss what " MOLD " was on the Block Walls behind the Styrofoam.

I would like to do the job right and be done with it.

What would you use 2x4 , 2x2 or 2x3 on the wall than the Drywall? Would you use Mold restistant Drywall?

What thickest 3/8" , 1/2" or 5/8" ?
 

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Sounds like you have a moisture problem to start with. You may need to use a concrete sealer such as DryLoc on the walls before covering them. Take a piece of plastic about 12" x 12" and tape it to the wall. Make sure it is completely sealed around the edges. Let it sit for 24 hours and then remove it and see if there is moisture on it. This will tell you if moisture is a problem BEFORE you capture it behind the drywall.
 

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I have said it before on this forum...'placing insulation and building walls directly against concrete walls below grade is a bad idea'.

Build your walls at least 2 inches away from the foundation's freezewall - to allow for air circulation.
When you build directly against a porous concrete base - you are creating a vapor chamber....for moisture to be trapped....

....another reason why I like the design of Dri-core flooring:

http://www.dricore.com/en/eIndex.aspx

(no - I don't own any stock in it :001_tongue: )
 

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What would you use 2x4 , 2x2 or 2x3 on the wall than the Drywall? Would you use Mold restistant Drywall?
What thickest 3/8" , 1/2" or 5/8" ?
As mentioned on this thread already: Build your walls at least 2" away from the concrete freezewall. Use 2x4's and use at least an R-13 rated insulation.

Not law- but my recommendation is 12" rigid foam insulation on the lower 12" of wall cavities. Use PT lumber (per code)...or other approved treated or moisture resistant lumber for the bottom plates.

Use the best currently available 'Mold-Resistant' sheetrock on the walls. If not the whole wall, at least the lower areas of it. Densarmor is marketed as paperless sheetrock that is mold resistant.
Use 1/2" Sheetrock...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
As mentioned on this thread already: Build your walls at least 2" away from the concrete freezewall. Use 2x4's and use at least an R-13 rated insulation.

Not law- but my recommendation is 12" rigid foam insulation on the lower 12" of wall cavities. Use PT lumber (per code)...or other approved treated or moisture resistant lumber for the bottom plates.

Use the best currently available 'Mold-Resistant' sheetrock on the walls. If not the whole wall, at least the lower areas of it. Densarmor is marketed as paperless sheetrock that is mold resistant.
Use 1/2" Sheetrock...

What do you think of useing Hardie Backer on the bottum 12" made my James Hardie Co.
 

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work but....

I have said it before on this forum...'placing insulation and building walls directly against concrete walls below grade is a bad idea'.

Build your walls at least 2 inches away from the foundation's freezewall - to allow for air circulation.
When you build directly against a porous concrete base - you are creating a vapor chamber....for moisture to be trapped....

....another reason why I like the design of Dri-core flooring:

http://www.dricore.com/en/eIndex.aspx

(no - I don't own any stock in it :001_tongue: )

I have to say this method would definitely work but... it means waste of space... if a basement is no leak, I don't think this method is necessary... but I thin putting a roofing tar paper between the concrete wall and insulation, is another idea I heard of and use... which does not waste space... I think this method will work provided the basement does not leak... if it leak... AtlanticWBConst method is better... but only work if it is really minor leaking...
 
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