DIY Home Improvement Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,943 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
if you hang drywall horizontally, what, if anything, do you do w/ all the butt joints to support them? it seems there might be movement, and cracks, otherwise. i've always wondered about this, and seek enlightenment.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,606 Posts
if you hang drywall horizontally, what, if anything, do you do w/ all the butt joints to support them? it seems there might be movement, and cracks, otherwise. i've always wondered about this, and seek enlightenment.
first use the longest drywall you can get usually 12' if you end up with a butt joint you have 2 choices
1-end so the joint is on a stud (both ends) then mud. See taping butt joints on youtube.
2-use a product called butt boards from trim tex and eliminate butt joints by ending your sheets between the studs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
647 Posts
I may get roasted and toasted, but I am hanging my drywall vertically JUST so I don't have to deal with butt joints. 8 foot sheets, approx 7'8" ceilings, cut off a few inches and I have only 1 recessed joint to tape.

I tried building a butt board for the ceiling and may have had moderate success. I have not got to taping yet, so we will see.

Pro drywallers who have acquired the taping skills can go ahead and do it horizontally. I am a DIYer and don't want to look at an ugly tape job on a butt joint.

B
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,606 Posts
Nobody's going to holler at you do what you are comfortable withI will be the first to admit butt joints are hard to deal with. If the room is 12' or under or you can get 16' drywall go horizonally if not and and you feel more comfy doing all the seams then that is the way to go. There are some pro's tat go vertical.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,943 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
tool: Thanks, but(t).... :laughing: a little funny reference to butt boards.... I was referring to all the edges meeting edges between studs. Many people are not putting blocking in walls now, so I guess blocking would be necessary. Or, do the edges not need any support? I just read about butt boards a few weeks ago here, and have made some for the ceiling of my garage. They sound great in concept, but I am wondering how they will perform in practice for a first timer. Is it best to screw the first sheet of 'rock to the butt board completely, or just put in a few screws, put a few into the second sheet of 'rock, and alternate along till done?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,082 Posts
i used butt boards for my ceilings, i made my own. pretty easy and pretty inexpensive. EXCELLENT results. if you do it right, the DW will not flex much, and doesn't need to. just screw em however.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,606 Posts
tool: Thanks, but(t).... :laughing: a little funny reference to butt boards.... I was referring to all the edges meeting edges between studs. Many people are not putting blocking in walls now, so I guess blocking would be necessary. Or, do the edges not need any support? I just read about butt boards a few weeks ago here, and have made some for the ceiling of my garage. They sound great in concept, but I am wondering how they will perform in practice for a first timer. Is it best to screw the first sheet of 'rock to the butt board completely, or just put in a few screws, put a few into the second sheet of 'rock, and alternate along till done?
You don't need any blocking just screw to the studs.
never tried the homemade ones because if you don't get it right and it's too high the rock will crack if it's too low you don't have enough room for the mud you defeated the purpose.
put the butt board on end of your piece of rock so it's halfway put 4screws in it (1 about every foot) hang that piece of rock so the end with the butt is halfway between 2 studs. Butt the end of sheet #2 against sheet#1 hang that piece. then come back to the joint and put 4 screws in it. you now have the vally and it is ready to mud and tape. No cutting, no fitting, no hump to try to hide.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
165 Posts
+1^ w/toolseeker on the screwing technique. One thing to add to that is to never put a screw too far inland. keep them at a reasonable distance from the cut edge but close enough that the tape will cover the screw.
This is a common problem even with some hanging crew. They'll place their screws just above/below the outer rim of the recess to where it has to be spotted(mudded) rather than just running your tape right over it.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,232 Posts
Aren't you supposed to have a small gap between sheets?

That would mean that for horizontal sheets you would need to shim the joint halfway up the wall otherwise the weight of the upper sheet will eliminate the gap. Then expansion due to temperature changes later would cause cracks, no?

(After the upper sheet is fastened the shims may be removed.)

I would also question whether the drywall would have enough give on (2x6) studs on 24 inch centers so that horizontal drywall would need fireblocking inside at the horizontal seam to prevent cracking later when someone leans on the wall the wrong way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,606 Posts
Aren't you supposed to have a small gap between sheets?

That would mean that for horizontal sheets you would need to shim the joint halfway up the wall otherwise the weight of the upper sheet will eliminate the gap. Then expansion due to temperature changes later would cause cracks, no?

(After the upper sheet is fastened the shims may be removed.)

I would also question whether the drywall would have enough give on (2x6) studs on 24 inch centers so that horizontal drywall would need fireblocking inside at the horizontal seam to prevent cracking later when someone leans on the wall the wrong way.
No dont leave any gaps and don't use any shims drywall is not like wood it doesn't react to temps.
Are you sure 24" on center walls are normally 16"o.c. of course they are normally 2x4. If they are 24"o.c. then I would use 5/8" rock instead of 1/2"
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,943 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
i used butt boards for my ceilings, i made my own. pretty easy and pretty inexpensive. EXCELLENT results. if you do it right, the DW will not flex much, and doesn't need to. just screw em however.
fixin: how thick were the shims on your butt boards? i saw a sketch someone here made and i think he had the shims at 1/16" apart on 9" wide boards. thanks. john
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,082 Posts
fixin: how thick were the shims on your butt boards? i saw a sketch someone here made and i think he had the shims at 1/16" apart on 9" wide boards. thanks. john
i used paper board (for lack of a better name. its thick paper). i got mine at walmart, for free. its the stuff that is in between paper towels and toilet paper as it sits on the pallets in the store. i cut it 3' 11" long and about 2" wide. then i used caulk to glue it to the boards i cut. don't use a lot of caulk and press the paper into it to flatten the caulk down. let it try.

i had my DW hung. i went into the attic and layed the BB's out. from the ceiling i drilled a pilot hole, then 1 screw. this holds the BB down. the other screws go in fine. the DW bowed up just a little. i used a bunch of screws, about every 4-5"


one of the first ones i did, i made the shims to thick. the DW bowed up quit a bit. many of the screws pulled through the DW. so i put some more screws in, but very carefully. this saved me from having to take down those piece of DW. it has been taped for a while now, but not finished. and other than more work to finish it, it looks like it is holding fine. the Dw never did crack, and it bowed a lot.

hope this helps
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top