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Discussion Starter #1
So, I'm remodeling / repairing one of my bathrooms...



I am already dealing with the fact that the original builder didn't use any form of moisture-resistant drywall (don't know if greeboard was available in the 1970's). As the pic shows, there's what appear to be water wicking up where the drywall met the tub surround mounting flange. Is there a special way to terminate the drywall at this point? Maybe with a J-channel or something?
 

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what I ment was are you planning another surround or tile or what .Personaly I would do tile but then you need backerboard or cement board and waterproof membain for tile
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ahhh, well there will probably be tile ULTIMATELY but we're just going to wall the bathroom up for the time being since it will probably need to stay that way for 2-5 years when we get around to that room in our scheduled plans. We will be keeping the tub surround, and all the original fixtures, etc and just getting rid of the mold and walling it back up. I just don't know the best way to terminate the wallboard where it meets the fiberglass...
 

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normally you would bring it to about 1/8 to 1/4 above the tub lip then use water tight calk around the edge but in your case if I could get it behind the lip and then calk I would do that.I think that would look better and keep the water out.I would also treat the wall board before you paint it.I mean it is just wall board with a fiberglass coat all the protection it can get will help to last the 2-5 till you get to the tile.........Ok I looked at the pic again and that lip is pretty high to go behind so go about an eight from the lip and calk it good
 

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by the way if you had mold before you need to srub all the wood and the area around with bleach and let it dry before you put up anything
 

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Discussion Starter #11
normally you would bring it to about 1/8 to 1/4 above the tub lip then use water tight calk around the edge but in your case if I could get it behind the lip and then calk I would do that.I think that would look better and keep the water out.I would also treat the wall board before you paint it.I mean it is just wall board with a fiberglass coat all the protection it can get will help to last the 2-5 till you get to the tile.........Ok I looked at the pic again and that lip is pretty high to go behind so go about an eight from the lip and calk it good
What sort of treatment can I do on the wallboard before I paint it? Are their spray coatings or something like that I can use?

by the way if you had mold before you need to srub all the wood and the area around with bleach and let it dry before you put up anything
I absolutely plan on doing this before I close it back up.

So you are doing wallboard & then a tub/shower surround?
No, I'm re-doing the wallboard that was damaged by moisture and mold around an existing tub / shower surround. I'm hoping to not have to pull the shower out but I'm guessing now that I'm going to need to do this to get all the moldy wood treated before I close it all up...
 

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ok if I am understanding this whole job your just replaceing wall board around the tub/shower area right.If thats the case this will not last but might make it the few years you want.As far as a treatment I would do redgaurd or something like it and then a water mold resistant paint might be overkill but it this case I cant see it hurting and its not expensive.Make sure you calk/seal the edges thats where your moister will get in.I would have save the money on the board and just fixed it right this time in tile as you plan to do later,I mean you got it all torn out anyway so why not do it right and how you want without doing it twice? but thats just my two cents worth,If I am wrong on what I think your trying to do then please explain it a bit more ok
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Naw, you make a lot of sense --and I'm going to have to think about it. It may very well not be as much work to just tile the area right now than wallboarding it up. I think the main issue is time. We need this front bathroom up and functional ASAP and I don't know if I can afford the time to do it right at this point... I'll definitely give it some serious thought though...
 

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for all your going to go through with what your doing it aint going to take much more time to tile it maybe a day or two to let the thinset and grout dry but you would have to wait for mud to dry too and how many coats so you see it really aint much more and it would be done right......................................yeah im trying to convince you to do it right lol
 

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Greenboard was available in the '70's and actually was better than the so-called green board made today. You're best off using the DensArmor. As stated, hold it up off the lip of the surround and caulk. The water "wicking" when the board sits down all the way is usually what causes the problem. The tile would be nice...
 

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I suppose this may last "awhile" if the board is regaurded as clasact suggested. I wouldn't get my hopes up. You could install a tub surround later (not my choice). If you wish to tile it later, the dens armour will have to be replaced with with some sort of cbu and regaurded again. Btw, adding shims (the same width as the tub lip) to the 2x's will produce a much flatter area.
 

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I put up a temporary fiberglass wall 3 years ago and regretted it everday since. Tile. Forget the time, this is your house. I swear to you you will come back here thanking us ten fold. Even if you use the inexpensove tile at the box store and use larger tiles to cut down time, you'll be thankful.
 

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ok now we can all do the happy dance lol...............you do know that if you just go ahead and tile the whole area you can do away with that surround and the wife will be so happy because it will look so nice.What do ya say go fo the whole wall ?
 
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