[toocheaptohire]

Hi - just joined this community and have a question about drywall: need to drywall an interior wall framed with 2x4x, but along one wall (which includes a door frame), a steel support column bulges out on both sides of the 2x4 framing by about 1/8" to 1/4" (does that make sense?). Should I (1) use furring strips on both sides of this wall to clear the column (which will mean I'll also have to add furring strips to both sides of the door frame to accomodate the drywall) or (2) somehow chip out the a strip on the backside of the drywall to make room for the support column? If (2), what's the best way to take out the "meat"?

Thanks.

 

[bjbatlanta]

You'll compromise the integrity of the drywall by"chipping out" the back side and may end up with stress cracks on the front. The paper (on both sides) plays an important part in keeping the board rigid. Once you take that away (and likely some of the core of the board) you have issues. Your best bet would be to fur the wall and get your prehung door with a jamb for a 2"x6" wall. HD stocks them (at least in this area). Too bad it wasn't framed 2x6 to begin with.....

 

[toocheaptohire]

Yup - that definitely makes sense and good tip on the 2x6 door jamb - thanks!

 

[Wildie]

Do you need to hide the bump! if not, you could box it in and cover the box with drywall!

 

[khellendrosXS]

Do you need to hide the bump! if not, you could box it in and cover the box with drywall!

I agree with this guy, its not that hard to box it in (especially if its only 1). It beats furring out an entire wall and having to get a larger door casing.

 

[bjbatlanta]

Definitely an alternative if you don't mind the offset on each side of the wall. It seemed the OP was trying to avoid that by his suggestion of "chipping out" the back of the drywall.....

 

[toocheaptohire]

It's a narrow wall (5 feet wide on one side, 6 or so on the other) and the column falls in the corner where the bath vanity will go (on one side) which would make an awkward bump out, so I think I'm going to fur out. Looks like I only need 1/4" lath on each side (soooooo close!) which I can pick up at HD and glue/staple up. Of course, now I need to shift the outlet and switch boxes out a touch, and get a new jamb, but since I split a piece of the jamb during demo (and didn't do that great of a job gluing the split piece back on), I'm not too sad about that last part. I don't quite need all of the additional width of a 2x6 jamb, so I assume I can trim it down on the table saw. For the record, I didn't originally frame this out with 2x4s - inherited previous owner's boo-boo (it had been covered with 1" cedar paneling into which grooves were cut for the column).

 

[jogr]

If it's really not more than 1/4" you can just likely use drywall shims like these
http://www.mencoroyal.com/index_files/Page1868.htm
on the adjacent 2x4s and get an acceptable look.

You'll need to stack 2 to 3 to get you the clearance you need. Then on the next adjacent studs use 1 to 2 shims. And on the next use 0 to 1 shims. That way your wall is only changing very slightly over a 4 ft distance.

Another alternative is to drywall right up to the post on both sides and then put a 4 to 6" wide strip of drywall from floor to ceiling over the "crack" . Put a bullnose on each vertical edge and it will look fine. Or just shim out 1/2" on all the studs on only the side of the post away from the door. Lap the drywall at the post and put a bullnose on the vertical lap.

 

[jogr]

Hah, you posted while I was posting. Given the new data I would suggest shimming out 1/4" and going to 1/4" drywall for just that short wall. Or use 1/4" drywall in a strip just where the post is and 1/2" for the rest (more mudding this way). I would avoid the added work of trimming door jams.

 

[toocheaptohire]

Jogr - I like the idea of using a 1/4" piece of drywall over the column, especially since I'm going to hire out for the mudding/taping part (have finally learned how to pick my battles and mudding 4 rooms in any reasonable amount of time is definitely beyond my skill set). So, I just need to get some 1/4" lathe and sheet of 1/4" drywall (only if I can't find some leftover rock from another project - so this is why you should hold on to scrap....) and I can avoid both a new jamb (and will putty over my glued up piece) and bumping out the 3 electrical boxes. Thanks.

 

[Wildie]

Another thought! Drywall around the bump and then fill the depression with quick set compound!

 

[toocheaptohire]

File this under "nothing is easy" - no 1/4" scrap left around the house and seems like the big box stores no longer stock it (requires special order). My kingdom for 1 sheet of 1/4"!!

 

[Wildie]

File this under "nothing is easy" - no 1/4" scrap left around the house and seems like the big box stores no longer stock it (requires special order). My kingdom for 1 sheet of 1/4"!!

Thats unfortunate! All our Big Box stores will cut whatever amount that you require! They also have bins where they place unpurchased pieces!
I'm a lumber packrat, and have all sort of pieces laying about! Too bad, you aren't close by, I could give you a piece.