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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It's a older concrete townhouse complex with steel studs through the place but on the concrete wall between the townhouse seem to be drywall glued on. I want to create a shiplap ( horizontal 8inch ply wood strips) accent wall but looking for best method to attach.
1) Glue 2 or 3 inch wide 1/2 or 3/8 thick vertical strips 16" apart to attach the accent wall, is this as only as strong as the paint on the wall?
2) do the same and ( 1 above) but drill anchors top/middle/bottom and what type of anchors?
3) don't know ? that's why I'm here

please help out
 

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Naildriver
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Welcome to the forums. You are correct in that the vertical slats would only be as strong as the painted surface, although without the sheetrock, that would be the best avenue. I don't like drilling holes in otherwise non leaking walls. Is this a fire wall or an exterior wall. If it is between townhouses as you say, then I would tapcon 1x4 vertical strips through the sheetrock and into the concrete, AND use a glue product like Fuze It to help hold it all together.
 

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Tapcons would be a good start. Don’t forget, most of the load will be vertical so the tapcons only need to resist the structure pulling away from the wall and falling over. That’s an important item, but at least you’re not fighting gravity like hanging shelves on the wall.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Welcome to the forums. You are correct in that the vertical slats would only be as strong as the painted surface, although without the sheetrock, that would be the best avenue. I don't like drilling holes in otherwise non leaking walls. Is this a fire wall or an exterior wall. If it is between townhouses as you say, then I would tapcon 1x4 vertical strips through the sheetrock and into the concrete, AND use a glue product like Fuze It to help hold it all together.
it between town homes so I guess it a fire separation wall as well between homes
 

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Contractor/Engineer
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Maybe a needless couple of questions/cautions...

1) Do you the townhome? If you are renting you need to have permission from the owner to do anything to the walls so you don't void your lease or get surprised by an expensive repair when you vacate. If you do own the townhome it sounds like a great project but, go on to point 2, please.

2) With a townhome there is often "common property" governed by the HOA or other ownership covenants. It is possible that the wall between two units (or the floors or ceilings in some cases) cannot be altered as it could affect other tenants as suggested by others regarding fire/sound blocking. Please review your owner restrictions before you penetrate the existing wall.

If you own the townhome and choose to use an adhesive or other surface mounting method I'd think you're "good to go." Before application I'd scrape off any paint before applying the adhesive - of course gouging the concrete should be avoided.

I agree with Chandler48's statement, "I don't like drilling holes in otherwise non leaking walls."
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Maybe a needless couple of questions/cautions...

1) Do you the townhome? (yes we own)If you are renting you need to have permission from the owner to do anything to the walls so you don't void your lease or get surprised by an expensive repair when you vacate. If you do own the townhome it sounds like a great project but, go on to point 2, please.

2) With a townhome there is often "common property" governed by the HOA or other ownership covenants. It is possible that the wall between two units (or the floors or ceilings in some cases) cannot be altered as it could affect other tenants as suggested by others regarding fire/sound blocking. Please review your owner restrictions before you penetrate the existing wall. ( will review our strata by laws before any drilling )

If you own the townhome and choose to use an adhesive or other surface mounting method I'd think you're "good to go." Before application I'd scrape off any paint before applying the adhesive - of course gouging the concrete should be avoided. (the drywall is 5/8 thick and may have been painted multiple times its a 30+ years old building so roughing up the vertical lines on the drywall before adhesive be sufficient ? )

I agree with Chandler48's statement, "I don't like drilling holes in otherwise non leaking walls."
 

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I just returned to the forum as I had been thinking about what I said regarding scraping the concrete - I remember (too late) that you have sheetrock glued to the concrete, so scrapping down to the concrete would be quite a task. Let's hope the by-laws for your place allow good solid anchors - such as tapcons others have suggested - to give you a good solid surface for anchoring the "new look."

Home ownership is great - but who'd have thought changing an interior wall would involve contract review! Ah well. It'll look great when you're done - please post some picture on this thread so that others can read about the trials and turmoil and gain confidence by your effort.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I just returned to the forum as I had been thinking about what I said regarding scraping the concrete - I remember (too late) that you have sheetrock glued to the concrete, so scrapping down to the concrete would be quite a task. Let's hope the by-laws for your place allow good solid anchors - such as tapcons others have suggested - to give you a good solid surface for anchoring the "new look."

Home ownership is great - but who'd have thought changing an interior wall would involve contract review! Ah well. It'll look great when you're done - please post some picture on this thread so that others can read about the trials and turmoil and gain confidence by your effort.
The boss/wife wants wall sconces so to run the Bx wire i will have to cut a channel where the kick board is this will give me a opportunity to see what behind the drywall ( I'm a journeyman electrician ) there is one wall plug in the wall which I'm guessing was ran in the concrete during construction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
What if I was to build a 2x2 steel frame ( because its a concrete building) wall in front of the wall, is this a better option?
 

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Naildriver
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Steel won't help you much when you go to nail up your ship lap. You can build a 2x4 wall with the 2x4's flat on the wall, again adhered with a good adhesive and tapcons, then apply your ship lap. You can also run your electrical between the studs and use shallow boxes and pancakes for the sconces.
 

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Naildriver
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The wall he is working with is fairly smooth, as it has sheetrock glued to it. Nailing furring strips or framing lumber to it won't present problems with imperfections as stated in earlier posts. No windows are involved. Are you really from Pakistan?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
went to Home depot looking at ply wood to cut in to 8" strips and two workers insisted i just glue the vertical strips with PL pro adhesive on to the drywall and swear it will hold. what do you think ?
 

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Naildriver
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Deer in the headlights. Why spend so much money on plywood when you can use 1x4 lumber, already cut. Using PL is fine but not by itself. In your first post, you acknowledged it would only be as strong as the paint on the surface of the surface ply of the sheetrock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Deer in the headlights. Why spend so much money on plywood when you can use 1x4 lumber, already cut. Using PL is fine but not by itself. In your first post, you acknowledged it would only be as strong as the paint on the surface of the surface ply of the sheetrock.
the ply wood is for the shiplap at 8" and yes i will get the pre cut 1x4 for the verticals
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Welcome to the forums. You are correct in that the vertical slats would only be as strong as the painted surface, although without the sheetrock, that would be the best avenue. I don't like drilling holes in otherwise non leaking walls. Is this a fire wall or an exterior wall. If it is between townhouses as you say, then I would tapcon 1x4 vertical strips through the sheetrock and into the concrete, AND use a glue product like Fuze It to help hold it all together.
so i finished the shiplap wall and very happy with it. see below
 
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