[cody21]

I've been reading and searching all over the place to make sure I understand the steps & materials for finishing off our newly-installed drywall. Can you great people here give me a sanity check before I step into this and screw it up?

- For the joints: I have a 3 lb. tub of "All Purpose Joint Compound (Westpac)" - it is pre-mixed. I planned to use along with MESH tape to join my seams as well as to apply 3 layers over my screw heads; then lightly sand all. (Should I thin this at all with water?)

- After that, this is where I'm getting confused: I read that a "medium grade - GREENLID BUCKET - pre-mixed compound" is best for coating #1 and #2 ... supposedly because it is easy to sand ?? Is this correct? Any specific brand better than others? (I shop at Home Depot).

- and for the 3rd & final coat? What should be used? All sounds like I need 2 or 3 different compounds.

- lastly, I read about "corner beads" to be inserted at all corners of the room and ceiling ... are these REALLY necessary? Why? I see they come in like 3 different types: plastic, metal, and what else? Which is best? I assume I simply apply some Joint Compound, press the bead into the compound, and top with more compound and sand as usual?

thanks for any wisdom you can share.

 

[Paragon]

Ohh my gosh have you opened a can of worms! You will get all sorts of responses but with a beginners skill level here is what I would recommend. You will hear people talk about fast setting compounds however I would NOT recommend them for a person starting out. I think one great place for watching the process is on you tube and there you can really see how this process goes

Such videos are like this http://www.you tube.com/watch?v=bMbwzjb6AVg&NR=1. I want you to know that this is an example and I think it will give you something to start with. You can cruise around youtube and see all sorts of different techniques but this is a start.

I want to point out how the nails or screw lines look in this video and that is how I do mine as well the compound is drawn in a long line over the screws I find this much faster than to spot each screw or dab the screw and wipe it off. I find that it is much easier to wipe the compound on over the screw line and then wipe it off.

I would if I were you go with a first coat with the green lid bucket then move to the dark blue lid for the second coat and then the light blue lid for the final coats. Don't sand between the first and second coat but rather between the second and third aka final coat (unless it is really bad) however you may need more depending on the job.

The butts are a different story on how to do them but I think you will find a video to suit you needs at YT.

This is a job that is not rocket science but IS technique. You may find out that you are definitely not a taper and decide to hire the job out fro a few hundred dollars depending on it size.

Good luck and let us know how it goes! Be safe!

 

[cody21]

Thank you .. I'll check out that YT link ... and post back here as I go through this..

 

[Paragon]

Good Luck!

 

[Willie T]

THIS may help.

 

[cody21]

Thanks ! I do have 1 follow-up question however. Do you guys normally only MUD the Joints & Seams and that's all? Unless you are texturing the entire walls that is... I was lead to believe that I would only be mudding the joints/seams - then apply a Latex Drywall Sealer over all surfaces.. Am I right about that?

 

[cody21]

THIS may help.

Great .. thanks !

 

[Paragon]

joints, seams, corners, nails/ screws and any blowouts.

Then if you are really good and the wall is a level 5 then you could leave it smooth otherwise you should texture the ceiling and walls and the finish you choose are of your decision texture 12 on the ceiling and a fine orange peel is nice on the walls.

Then seal with a new drywall or PVA primer and then paint I also would recommend either priming prior to texturing the ceiling or mixing the primer with the texture to ensure you get good adhesion.

Anything else just ask

 

[Paragon]

OHH and I almost forgot if you dont' apply corner bead to the corners you will quickly learn why. There are great pre papered conrner beads out there that simplify the process quite a bit!

 

[cody21]

OHH and I almost forgot if you dont' apply corner bead to the corners you will quickly learn why. There are great pre papered conrner beads out there that simplify the process quite a bit!

I grasp the concept or OUTSIDE edges and needing Corner beads. But these are NOT used at the upper or inner corners of walls, right? Just TAPE.

 

[Paragon]

Well... actually you can get inside metal corner bead. I use paper tape in the inside corners and don't use the expensive metal corners but I suppose you could. Some people use the mesh in inside corners as well but I don't advocate it. I even saw a video on YT where a person mesh taped the corner bead so you will see all sorts of stuff out there.

Good luck!

 

[bjbatlanta]

Paper tape the inside corners, don't even consider mesh. If you use mesh on the flats, use setting type (powder) compound for at least the first coat. Ready mix is fine for final coat(s). Don't mess with any "light weight" compounds.The metal backed/paper bead is reasonably easy to apply (mud on the drywall, stick the bead on, wipe off excess mud) and get square. Thinning the mud will be your biggest issue. Just how much water to use is a matter of how thin YOU are comfortable with the mud being so you can work with it easily. Add small amounts until you get to where you feel like the mud "flows" as you apply it and wipe it down. This is where the "learning" curve is. And remember, several thin coats are better than trying to "pile it on" and trying to cover in one or two coats. Best of luck....

 

[jogr]

Maybe it's just my DIY technique but the paper tape seems to work better for me than the mesh.

 

[bjbatlanta]

I only use mesh for small repairs. Tape with mesh, two coats of 20 min. mud, light skim with ready-mix (heat gun to dry all coats), light sand and done. For a lot of folks paper tape is difficult to work with. It's usually a matter of the mud being too thick.....

 

[Gary in WA]

You will be investing time and money on texturing, so do some homework first.
Prime before texture equalizes both porosity and surface texture differences. It provides a base that equalizes the absorbsion rate variations between the drywall face paper and the finished joint compound when painted, delivering a uniform finish coat. This ensures that no areas of texture will fail prematurely.

When texture comes off in sheets, it is because of dust under or no primer.

When doing knockdown un-primed, the texture dries at different speeds, creating a different texture as you drag a blade over it. You will see the difference.
The U.S. Gypsum Association, (a member probably made your wallboard and mud you are using) requires you to prime before texturing with a water based product. (A.2.3)
Their warranty against ceiling sag requires a prime before texture (A.2.4)
(A.4.3) prime before painting final
(A.4.3.1) prime prior to texturing, again
If your ceiling texture (whichever style) fails, and you didn't prime before texturing, you lost your manufacture's warranty. I got lazy and copied my other post.

Use hot water with fast (chemical set) mud and watch out! http://www.gypsum.org/pdf/GA-216-07.pdf Be safe, G

 

[cody21]

Thank you GBAR - great advice... We got a huge bucket of Drywall Primer today ... it won't go to waste....