[Richo]

The reason I ask this is that the framing is already installed and each wall frame has a single stud at the top attached to the joists (yeah I probably did this wrong using only 1). Because of a few water pipes, the ceiling needs to be furred with 1 by's.

If I attach the drywall to the ceiling first as is recommended, the furring strips and drywall thickness will cover the top 2X4 on the frame leaving nothing to attach the wall board to at the top, other than every 16 inches at the studs. Does the wall board really need to be fastened fully along the top edge or is every 16 inches sufficient?

And one more question...when furring the ceiling with 1 X 3s, should they be run perpendicular to the joists or attached directly to edge of the joists, or is it really a matter of preference?

Thanks for your help.

 

[DangerMouse]

i had to put a wall up before the ceiling here and it causes no problem. the crown moulding holds the 5/8" fire-X just fine....-=chuckle=-
that and all the screws... don't sweat it. and i'd run them perp for sure.

DM

 

[Bob Mariani]

Run the strips perpendicular. This adds some stiffness to the floor above. Screw with 1 5/8" screws every 6-8" Put the ceiling up first. Do not worry about the wall's top plate, you do not nail or screw into this anyway. Screw walls into the studs leaving 1/2" at the bottom to avoid water wicking at the edge and do not screw into the top 6".

 

[Termite]

I would definitely advocate hanging the ceiling first. If you install plenty of nailers for the edges of the ceiling you would be ok hanging the walls and then the ceiling.

Agreed, furring strips go perpindicular to the joists.

 

[HABSFAN2006]

Run the strips perpendicular. This adds some stiffness to the floor above. Screw with 1 5/8" screws every 6-8" Put the ceiling up first. Do not worry about the wall's top plate, you do not nail or screw into this anyway. Screw walls into the studs leaving 1/2" at the bottom to avoid water wicking at the edge and do not screw into the top 6".

agree with all of this, specialy the 1 5/8 screws every 8" very important,
and i'd double up the corner screws.

curious by what you mean when you say do not screw into the top 6"?

 

[Bob Mariani]

agree with all of this, specialy the 1 5/8 screws every 8" very important,
and i'd double up the corner screws.

curious by what you mean when you say do not screw into the top 6"?

The wall boards are still enough to yield sufficient strength and no movement without attempting to screw the top 6" of the sheet against the ceiling. Also you have greater chance of angling the screw leaving it exposed or tearing the paper since you cannot get your drill straight when up against the ceiling. Look at a pro work, you will see this is pretty common. this was stated more for the fact that the poster had issues with not hitting the top plate and I was attempting to emphasis that this is not required. Also I have do problems with doing this since I use glue and screws and I always double screw. The other reason I do this is that I use self feeding screw guns and getting too close to the ceiling is an issue. 6" is limit. I would normally be closer to 2-3" from the ceiling.

 

[HABSFAN2006]

The wall boards are still enough to yield sufficient strength and no movement without attempting to screw the top 6" of the sheet against the ceiling. Also you have greater chance of angling the screw leaving it exposed or tearing the paper since you cannot get your drill straight when up against the ceiling. Look at a pro work, you will see this is pretty common. this was stated more for the fact that the poster had issues with not hitting the top plate and I was attempting to emphasis that this is not required. Also I have do problems with doing this since I use glue and screws and I always double screw. The other reason I do this is that I use self feeding screw guns and getting too close to the ceiling is an issue. 6" is limit. I would normally be closer to 2-3" from the ceiling.

Ok great, thanks for clarifying. I agree, you don't want a bunch of angled screws and torn paper.

 

[bjbatlanta]

It IS common for pros to nail into the top plate(s). You can "set" nails in the top edge of the board before hanging it. When the board is lifted into place, a few hits with the hammer and the board is in place to nail/screw off. You will often see hangers nail the perimeter of the sheets (ceiling or walls) and come back with screws in the field. This just speeds up the hanging process when getting paid by the sheet. For a DIY'er or the "occasional" drywaller, it's quite acceptable to do as BOB stated. Nailing to the studs is fine....

 

[Bob Mariani]

It IS common for pros to nail into the top plate(s). You can "set" nails in the top edge of the board before hanging it. When the board is lifted into place, a few hits with the hammer and the board is in place to nail/screw off. You will often see hangers nail the perimeter of the sheets (ceiling or walls) and come back with screws in the field. This just speeds up the hanging process when getting paid by the sheet. For a DIY'er or the "occasional" drywaller, it's quite acceptable to do as BOB stated. Nailing to the studs is fine....

Actually I do that. I set a few nails around the perimeter to hold in place then screw after moving my lift.

 

[II Weeks]

all good advice. I would suggest you use 12' boards whenever possible and for ceilings, we like to use 5/8" rock. 1/2" is OK but it will follow the joists as they are where 5/8" is a little stiffer and gives a better look when finished IMO.
You can rent a sheetrock hoist for a day and DIY or with a helper. Its not that hard.