[CanRulez]

Hi everyone

I gutted my 2nd bathroom, specifically removing the existing tub and changing it to a whirlpool tub.

I removed all the drywall surrounding the tub, but left the ceiling drywall intact.

When I install new drywall around the tub, do I need to tape and then mud where the wall drywall meets the ceiling drywall before retiling?

What is the proper way to do this, or is it perfectly acceptable to just tile and then caulk the edge?

Thanks!

CanRulez

 

[Bud Cline]

Does this tub include a shower?

If it does not, I wouldn't use regular drywall, I would use "Moisture Resistant" drywall.

 

[CanRulez]

Does this tub include a shower?

If it does not, I wouldn't use regular drywall, I would use "Moisture Resistant" drywall.

Yes, moisture resistant drywall is being used. However, I'm trying to figure out whether I need to tape the drywall where "wall meets the ceiling."

Thanks.

 

[Bud Cline]

Are you going to tile the ceiling?

 

[Jessidog]

I would not use water-resistant drywall if you are referring to the old school "green board". Instead, I would use one of the cement board or fiberglass backer board products now available. To my knowledge, all of these products require taping of the joints.

If the tile stops short of the ceiling and the ceiling is being painted, I would stop the tile backer board a few inches below the top of the tile and then use drywall for the remainder of the wall and ceiling. Then the joint between the backer board and drywall will be behind the tile and there will be a nice drywall surface for painting.

In any case, if the corner is formed by two painted drywall surfaces, you want the tape and finish the corner rather than simply using caulk.

David

 

[Blondesense]

The reason you are getting seemingly conflicting answers here is because you still haven't answered the question: "Does this tub include a shower?" It makes a difference.

No shower: Moisture resistant drywall is OK.

Shower: use CBU.

Are you tiling the entire wall up to the ceiling?

 

[CanRulez]

The reason you are getting seemingly conflicting answers here is because you still haven't answered the question: "Does this tub include a shower?" It makes a difference.

No shower: Moisture resistant drywall is OK.

Shower: use CBU.

Are you tiling the entire wall up to the ceiling?

Sorry everyone for not being clear. Yes, I am installing a whirlpool tub and it will include a shower. I plan on either using cement board or denshield on the walls surrounding the tub.

The tiles will be installed on the walls up to the ceiling. There will be no tiles installed on the ceiling.

Will I need to tape where the densshield meets the ceiling drywall with paper tape or fibreglass mesh tape, or is it not necessary because I am tiling to the ceiling anyway?

Hopefully my question is a bit clearer now....again sorry for the confusion...

CanRulez

 

[Jessidog]

If you are tiling to the ceiling and the existing drywall is cut cleanly around the edges, I would carry the Durarock (or whatever board you are using) up to the ceiling and caulk the edge. Then install the tile, which should completely cover the drywall edges. Silicon caulk along the tile/drywall edge should work fine and give a clean edge.

David

 

[Bud Cline]

Okay...no tile on the ceiling.

I would use Denshield in this case. Shove it up tight against the ceiling and caulk that joint. There is absolutely no reason to run tape up there and create more work. Once the tile is in, caulk that juncture again, don't grout it, CAULK IT.

I don't know where you would get a Fiberglas tile backer board. I doubt there is such a thing. Never seen one.:no:

Is this "Whirlpool Tub" suitable for installation with a shower? Is it a drop-in type? What the heck are you doing?

 

[Jessidog]

I don't know where you would get a Fiberglas tile backer board. I doubt there is such a thing. Never seen one.:no:

Several months ago I bought a piece of tile backer board for a small job. I remembered it as a fiberglass based. I went out to the garage and looked again and it does look like a cement-based product.

David

 

[Bud Cline]

Does it have a name?

 

[CanRulez]

Okay...no tile on the ceiling.

I would use Denshield in this case. Shove it up tight against the ceiling and caulk that joint. There is absolutely no reason to run tape up there and create more work. Once the tile is in, caulk that juncture again, don't grout it, CAULK IT.

I don't know where you would get a Fiberglas tile backer board. I doubt there is such a thing. Never seen one.:no:

Is this "Whirlpool Tub" suitable for installation with a shower? Is it a drop-in type? What the heck are you doing?

I'll be installing this whirlpool tub. 60"x32"

http://www.mirolin.com/english/home.php?Page=Products&Model=TA6032L/R

I think I've made up my mind and will be using cement board around the tub up to the ceiling.

If I understand it correctly, I will need:

1. cement board screws for the installation
2. cement board seam tape

My plumber will be installing the tub and completing all the plumbing. My tiler will install the tile, but I will install the cement board and drywall to minimize my costs. Sorry, I've overspent on this renovation as it is and need to save on costs...

I have a few questions. My tub is a skirted tub with the following measurements 60"W x 32 "D x 20"H. I also have 8 foot ceilings.

The length of my wall is 60" so this entire wall above the length of the tub will be cement board.

The question I have pertains to the depth of the tub which is 32". What length of cement board should I use for this assuming tile will go past the tub by 4"? Essentially 36" of cement board will be covered by tile.

Can the portion of the cement board that is not covered by tile be mudded and feathered for priming/painting? (i.e. should I install 60"x32" and install the cement board horizontally along the depth of the tub too?)

I want to be able to tape and mud where the seams of the cement board and other moisture resistant drywall meet...

Confused...

 

[Bud Cline]

Boards 32' X 60" layed horizontal would work but there will be a little waste. If the seam is made beyond the edge of the wallboard filling it with joint compound and painting it won't be a problem.

Look at the Denshield product, it comes 32" X 60" and is a clean smooth water resistant product for shower walls.