Dryer duct vent hose - is this wrong?
Hi - this is my first post/time on this forum ever so please bear with me if I’m confusing or doing it wrong.
Home Depot just delivered and installed a gas dryer at my home. I knew nothing about proper vent installation at the time. After the installers left I started questioning the common sense of their work. I inspected the vent hose (which is flexible metal) and I noticed two things.
The first is how the vent hose curves back and forth. Is that bad/will that trap lint? Should I undo the hose clamp and trim the hose so it’s a shorter, straighter shot or are those smooth curves okay?
The second is the duct/flange/whatever you call it at the wall. The duct is crimped (see picture) so there’s a gap that I can almost stick my pinky finger in. That’s definitely wrong, right? That needs to be straightened and the foil taped, right?
Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks!
Home Depot just delivered and installed a gas dryer at my home. I knew nothing about proper vent installation at the time. After the installers left I started questioning the common sense of their work. I inspected the vent hose (which is flexible metal) and I noticed two things.
The first is how the vent hose curves back and forth. Is that bad/will that trap lint? Should I undo the hose clamp and trim the hose so it’s a shorter, straighter shot or are those smooth curves okay?
The second is the duct/flange/whatever you call it at the wall. The duct is crimped (see picture) so there’s a gap that I can almost stick my pinky finger in. That’s definitely wrong, right? That needs to be straightened and the foil taped, right?
Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks!
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Thanks, Colbyt!
Anybody else have some pointers?
Anybody else have some pointers?
"I knew nothing about proper vent installation at the time."
Neither did they.
I understand the space issues but a company that does this and charges customers should have better options. I recently went through this install process at my daughters and it was a challenge to minimize the snake back there and get a good connection. Since, I have seen here on the forum a magnetic connection, wish I had that.
Google "magnetic dryer hose connection". It sure looks like an option that will allow you to slide that dryer in and out as needed.
Bud
Neither did they.
I understand the space issues but a company that does this and charges customers should have better options. I recently went through this install process at my daughters and it was a challenge to minimize the snake back there and get a good connection. Since, I have seen here on the forum a magnetic connection, wish I had that.
Google "magnetic dryer hose connection". It sure looks like an option that will allow you to slide that dryer in and out as needed.
Bud
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I would have installed a periscope vent being that close. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...le-Solid-Aluminum-Dryer-Duct-UD48HD/203632347
Yeah, I remember that. I thought it was pretty cool too.
But in the photo provided, it rather looks like the dryer outlet is quit a bit lower than the wall inlet. So OP has to buy the version of the MagVent with the long flex snake on it. Only thing OP gets is that he does not have to reach to the back of the dryer to clamp the duct, the way Richard is at the 6:00 minute mark.
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Shoot for a 5 incher and just do the best you can with what you have to work with. That crimp must be improved upon as it is sure a perfect place for lint to accumulate.
I've always assumed dryer people flunked air flow school.
I've always assumed dryer people flunked air flow school.
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Ya, haven't tried the magnet yet. We don't know whether this dryer has access from the side or if it is boxed in. Or if the washing machine is on one side. I was able to pull the washer once to gain access from the side since I don't fit over the top and into the back. how many years have we been dealing with this snake option?
Bud
Bud
My first choice for venting a gas dryer is 4" smooth round alum duct, and the seams sealed with foil tape, ends clamped, no screws. But if that is not possible, the accordion will work. The slinky snake isn't a problem by itself, unless its kinked. Shorter is always better, but may run the risk of kinking it. The finger sized gap at one end needs to be fixed asap. Gas dryers vent vent CO2, so a large hole in the line would be venting CO2 into the living space. I would remove it, straighten out the nipple and reattach. Tape and clamp.
The telescoping rig someone mentioned above do work, but they reduce air flow, and clog fast. Have never used the magnetic type.
The telescoping rig someone mentioned above do work, but they reduce air flow, and clog fast. Have never used the magnetic type.
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I believe you meant to say "gas dryers vent CO carbon monoxide, (not CO2, carbon dioxide). We all exhale CO2 which is harmless.
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That is pretty slick.
Certainly makes it easy to remove the dryer and then clean the lines.
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It worked real slick but I never tried removing the dryer, don't know how far it stretches before letting go.
Yeah, that connection to the wall is pretty bad. Rather amateur. Not sure why they had to do that, my 4" flex fits nicely over my 4" rigid tube. But if they had to crimp the tube, you would think they would invest in a set of crimping pliers.
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The telescope type vent (that Chandler proposed) also saves room and lets the dryer be located much closer to the rear wall. The metal hose type is 4 inches minimum from wall. Telescope type is much less. Op's install, all bent around is very far from wall.
It was important for us because new washers and dryers are all deeper than they used to be. Ours is in a condo utility room with a traditional inward swinging door whose latch cleared the washer by about an inch. We picked Whirlpool brand over others because depth was the smallest.
Other residents in the complex found out the hard way and when their doors wouldn't close after a new install, they had to hire carpenter to change door type.
So new washer fits in place, just with slightly less clearance than before. Door did not have to be changed to folding type. That's where the partner requirements enter the equation. The dryer must be front aligned with washer. It was impossible without the telescoping vent on the dryer. Saved inches. HW/HL.:vs_laugh:
Last opinion: At Home Depot, lots of the boxes were opened and parts echanged into other boxes, to suit customer needs. Perhaps better to order from Amazon to get a box that's more likely to not have been tampered with?
It was important for us because new washers and dryers are all deeper than they used to be. Ours is in a condo utility room with a traditional inward swinging door whose latch cleared the washer by about an inch. We picked Whirlpool brand over others because depth was the smallest.
Other residents in the complex found out the hard way and when their doors wouldn't close after a new install, they had to hire carpenter to change door type.
So new washer fits in place, just with slightly less clearance than before. Door did not have to be changed to folding type. That's where the partner requirements enter the equation. The dryer must be front aligned with washer. It was impossible without the telescoping vent on the dryer. Saved inches. HW/HL.:vs_laugh:
Last opinion: At Home Depot, lots of the boxes were opened and parts echanged into other boxes, to suit customer needs. Perhaps better to order from Amazon to get a box that's more likely to not have been tampered with?
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I very frequently find stuff from Home Depot has been opened/tampered with -- it's annoying as heck, but you can do you due diligence to inspect before buying and after discovering a problem it's faster to exchange. Where-as with Amazon -- where I've also encountered many returns re-sold as new -- it's a huge pain the butt and you've waiting at least a day or two for a new package.
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Regarding your last opinion, which I very much understand, doesn't just apply to Big Orange, it also applies to Big Blue. Appliances routinely come in damaged even though the box doesn't look damaged at all. Also, customers are known to help themselves to the pieces they need with open boxes.
I have never seen a dryer vent done properly. Mostly they're slinky ducting as in the OP's pic and done that way so's the laundry lady doesn't have to look at anything as "industrial" as ducting. Makes me wonder why more houses don't burn to the ground!
Of course the local FD loves these installs, keeps them in business.
The vent should really be above the dryer, the duct should be sheet metal as has been mentioned, and the elbow/curves minimized. Also the wall end of the vent being above ground won't be as attractive to critters looking for a warm bunk!
Of course the local FD loves these installs, keeps them in business.
The vent should really be above the dryer, the duct should be sheet metal as has been mentioned, and the elbow/curves minimized. Also the wall end of the vent being above ground won't be as attractive to critters looking for a warm bunk!
The house down the road from me burnt to the ground. Total right-off. I have not heard an official cause from the fire marshal, but the story going around at the time was that it was a dyer fire.
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