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Drill bit for what feels like real tile?

1374 Views 13 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  justplumducky
Need to drill a 1" hole in a kitchen floor ( mobile home), and thru the sub-floor to accommodate a new 4-wire (aluminum wire) cable (6/3 w/gd) for a kitchen range. Not sure if it's a floor covering like linoleum or similar because the "tiles" are shallow, but when I tap it with a tool, it sounds like real tile. Linoleum (or whatever) with real tile surface squares?
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When you say real tile do you mean ceramic or porcelain? I am not following. The bit you showed won't work on real tile, but would work just fine on vinyl tile.
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When you say real tile do you mean ceramic or porcelain? I am not following. The bit you showed won't work on real tile, but would work just fine on vinyl tile.
Afraid I don't know for sure, but would vinyl tile sound like ceramic tile when tapping on it? Never knew there was such a thing as porcelain tile. "'Vinyl" sounds like something softer than ceramic. Not so?

I used a 1" wood bit:

http://www.whitecap.com/shop/p/irwi...ALoasZTJSfXkYo5HnAZd4a0CsNh1gF5lEzBoCSQ_w_wcB

in my drill to see if the point would dig in, but it would immediately drift off the target spot (not penetrate). Tapped it with the bit and it sounded like real tile to me.

What bit would I need for real/non-vinyl tile?
Vinyl is a PVC based product and Linoleum is made from other products like linseed oil. Cermaic and Porcelain tile are made from clay and are similar. The real difference between them is density. Porcelain tiles are much more dense and absorb a lot less water.

Vinyl tiles do not sound solid like ceramic or porcelain. If it sounds solid that bit won't work. You need a bit like this.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rubi-2-1...dA4aAQ6xE_GLMRgjUy0dFyBk7tXsGTSj3VBoCdBvw_wcB
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Vinyl is a PVC based product and Linoleum is made from other products like linseed oil. Cermaic and Porcelain tile are made from clay and are similar. The real difference between them is density. Porcelain tiles are much more dense and absorb a lot less water.

Vinyl tiles do not sound solid like ceramic or porcelain. If it sounds solid that bit won't work. You need a bit like this.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rubi-2-1...dA4aAQ6xE_GLMRgjUy0dFyBk7tXsGTSj3VBoCdBvw_wcB
Without a pilot bit, seems like it would be difficult to start a hole without it drifting. No? Will it go on through 3/4" particle board or plywood after getting through the tile?
Without a pilot bit, seems like it would be difficult to start a hole without it drifting. No?
Whatever size you are drilling with make a guide for the bit. Take a scrap of plywood and drill the same size hole. Place the plywood guide on your tile and use it to guide your bit. You can also use the plywood as a reservoir for water. Keeping the bit wet is key.
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Whatever size you are drilling with make a guide for the bit. Take a scrap of plywood and drill the same size hole. Place the plywood guide on your tile and use it to guide your bit. You can also use the plywood as a reservoir for water. Keeping the bit wet is key.
Ok then, thank you much for your help.
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On porcelain tile, knock the glaze off the area to be drilled with a Dremel diamond burr then drill.
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Yes, a 1" to 1 1/4" hole saw will work. But for porcelain tile, which is extremely hard, you will need to use a carbide-tipped bit to get through the tile. Keep a big sponge filled with water handy to cool things off, let the bit do the work, and use patience. Hopefully your drill has enough oomph to do the job. A standard hole saw (bi-metal) will get you through the substrate (if it is a wood product) and the sub-floor. If it is recent tile, the odds are good that there is a layer of cement board beneath the tile. Keep chugging away with the carbide bit for that. And the suggestion to drill out a hole in plywood beforehand is a great one, that will keep the tip from wandering until the hole cut is established.
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Still not sure what kind of material it was, but pretty sure not ceramic however, and the point of my wood bit (mentioned in prior post, and the point of a drywall screw would not penetrate; just kept wandering off target spot. I should've taken a pic of the plug removed from the bit, but got sidetracked with homeowner conversation. Will next time if I encounter it again.

The 1" diamond drill bit (pic below) took a couple minutes to get thru, but worked beautifully with water and the wood "template."

Thx so much for all the replies!

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-1-in-Diamond-Plus-Mini-Hole-Saw-49-56-0517/204994414
If you would have looked a little more on the Home Depot page referenced above, you would have seen a pic like this:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/QEP-1-3-...PIPHorizontal1_rr-_-204074218-_-202205611-_-N

They come in different sizes as a little kit. The plastic guide sticks to the tile with the self adhesive gaskets shown. Fill the cup with water, use a cordless drill on slow speed and don't apply a lot of pressure. It will go through easily, just don't force it. No pilot bit needed.
Mike Hawkins:smile:
If you would have looked a little more on the Home Depot page referenced above, you would have seen a pic like this:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/QEP-1-3-...PIPHorizontal1_rr-_-204074218-_-202205611-_-N

They come in different sizes as a little kit. The plastic guide sticks to the tile with the self adhesive gaskets shown. Fill the cup with water, use a cordless drill on slow speed and don't apply a lot of pressure. It will go through easily, just don't force it. No pilot bit needed.
Mike Hawkins:smile:
Indeed I did not see that page, but just now I searched for 1 in. Hole Saw with Water Delivering System which is I what I needed, but nothing came up on Home Depot, and only 1-3/8 in. came up when doing a general Web search. I suppose since the hole is was in back of a kitchen range in a mobile home with a not-too-picky homeowner, I could have made do with 1-3/8" hole and sealed it up properly. Will keep it in mind... thx much!
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