DIY Home Improvement Forum banner
1 - 13 of 13 Posts

· Too Much DIY!
Joined
·
628 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is it okay to drill a drain hole in the bottom of a window A/C unit? As I understand, the water that collects in the sheet metal is supposed to provide a little more cooling for the condenser fan motor, as the fan picks it up and sprays it around. But the pooled water also acts like a petri dish of grime and other toxins that probably are not good for breathing. So I'd like to eliminate the pooling by adding a small drain hole.
 

· Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,687 Posts
I understand, I hate that grime and crud to.

I would be very careful if you do. Too many chances of hitting a line or condenser drilling underneath, can't see what your drilling into. Then you are on your way to a big box store to get another one.

A little more work, but better solution would be to go to the back of the ac where the drain pan is, undo the frame a little bit so you can pull it away from any coils or tubing and drill a hole towards bottom of frame work not the underneath. Just a suggestion.

Yes, you are correct, the newer ones are designed that way to enhance the cooling and evaporation. More efficient etc.
 

· Too Much DIY!
Joined
·
628 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Success! Drilled drain holes in the bottom, below each of my A/C unit's condensers. One unit had a plastic tray, so it was pretty easy to guide the bit in gently to avoid puncturing the condenser. The other unit had a metal tray, which was trickier. I had to partially unbolt the tray and shift it away from the condenser slightly. I then gently wedged a pry bar in there to act as a barrier between the incoming bit and the condenser. It turns out, that this unit's lack of drain hole was rusting out the bottom of my condenser. The puddling water in there, whatever the designer purposed it for, was doing more harm than good!

Both units were pretty yucky inside. With some Lundmark Coil Cleaner, I got them all cleaned up and they are ready to be reinstalled again!:smile:
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,054 Posts
I use a window AC in the back window of my micro mini Toyota. Pooling water in it would splash inside when driving and not always parked level enough for it to function as designed.


If you cannot see inside well enough to decide where to drill holes, then take the cover off. Usually only a few screws.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
8,186 Posts
Manufacturers put a slinger ring on the condenser fan so it would reach in the pan and sling condensate on the coils. That improved efficiency and reduced dripping. It might use a tiny bit more electric after drilling drain holes.
 
  • Like
Reactions: m_ridzon

· Registered
Joined
·
309 Posts
My drain hole got clogged because of debris in my window AC unit, too.

I looked through the air intakes/outakes and saw algae, pooling water, dirt. I freaked when I saw pine needles coiled around a part, so I knew the part was spinning and was going to suck more and more needles into its spin until it caused a big problem, I thought. Had it professionally cleaned; they had to take it into the shop and take it apart to clean it, after which I bought a cloth-like cover for it and haven't turned it on since....

.... not until I can find or have made a leaf/dirt debris screen, guard that will prevent entry of nature's castoffs. Surprisingly, I couldn't find anything on the internet that will work WHILE THE AC IS RUNNING. I saw a top screen for a central (outside handler?) that can stay on while that thing is running, but nothing for a window unit that will let it breathe AND block leaves.

Do any of you window-unit people know of anything? There's also too much water coming in from the awning. Thank you from Florida.
 

· Too Much DIY!
Joined
·
628 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Manufacturers put a slinger ring on the condenser fan so it would reach in the pan and sling condensate on the coils. That improved efficiency and reduced dripping. It might use a tiny bit more electric after drilling drain holes.
Yes, I saw the slinger ring. However, after disassembling and spending a couple hours cleaning major grime and mess from the puddled water therein, I am convinced the missing drain holes are doing more harm than good. So if it consumes a tiny more electricity in exchange for improved cleanliness and air quality, I'll make that trade. I assure you, the loss in heat transfer performance from the accumulated grime buildup on everything, was probably offsetting the supposed improved efficiency that the puddled water would provide. To add to the mess, some of the steel components in the lower tray area where the puddling occurred, were nearly rusted to oblivion.

After reading other stories online, my wife and I decided we are going to make this an annual routine, to take the sheet metal off and deep scrub the innards with Lundmark coil cleaner. The freshness in the house from the cleaned units is wonderful!

My drain hole got clogged because of debris in my window AC unit, too.

I looked through the air intakes/outakes and saw algae, pooling water, dirt. I freaked when I saw pine needles coiled around a part, so I knew the part was spinning and was going to suck more and more needles into its spin until it caused a big problem, I thought. Had it professionally cleaned; they had to take it into the shop and take it apart to clean it, after which I bought a cloth-like cover for it and haven't turned it on since....

.... not until I can find or have made a leaf/dirt debris screen, guard that will prevent entry of nature's castoffs. Surprisingly, I couldn't find anything on the internet that will work WHILE THE AC IS RUNNING. I saw a top screen for a central (outside handler?) that can stay on while that thing is running, but nothing for a window unit that will let it breathe AND block leaves.

Do any of you window-unit people know of anything? There's also too much water coming in from the awning. Thank you from Florida.
Everything I am seeing online says you have to manually clean the things once a year (or more if in exceptionally messy area). I don't think there is a "one-and-done" screen, guard, or other solution, that you can install and forget about it.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
309 Posts
Thanks m_, you're right but I think i can make it better:

My manual says I only need a 2" clearance around the air vents, which I was surprised to hear such a small clearance. It's those top and sides air vents that can't be covered to stop debris entry, right?

I think I can reduce the debris amount by gluing a straight sheet of aluminum to the aluminum window frame about 4" above the AC, sloping down over the entire unit, over the top vent and several inches wider on both sides, and extending way past the end of the unit to let them all have their 2" at least.

I might be able to hang a weighted mesh screen on the edge of the aluminum on the "worst side," from where the needles enter. The bottoms will all be open for underneath air in addition.

It's a matter of IF the slope of the aluminum sheet will leave the 2" above the ENTIRE top vent area. which I won't know till I try. I'm on my way to the aluminum company to have the sheet cut.
 

· Too Much DIY!
Joined
·
628 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
My manual says I only need a 2" clearance around the air vents, which I was surprised to hear such a small clearance. It's those top and sides air vents that can't be covered to stop debris entry, right?
That sounds about right. You just need a little air clearance around the top and sides to facilitate heat transfer.

I think I can reduce the debris amount by gluing a straight sheet of aluminum to the aluminum window frame about 4" above the AC, sloping down over the entire unit, over the top vent and several inches wider on both sides, and extending way past the end of the unit to let them all have their 2" at least.

I might be able to hang a weighted mesh screen on the edge of the aluminum on the "worst side," from where the needles enter. The bottoms will all be open for underneath air in addition.

It's a matter of IF the slope of the aluminum sheet will leave the 2" above the ENTIRE top vent area. which I won't know till I try. I'm on my way to the aluminum company to have the sheet cut.
I think your plan will help, but I don't think it's a "set it and forget it." Again, the inbound/outbound air flow, although a little cleaner, will still carry some unwanted debris into the machine. So you will likely need to clean it annually. Additionally, if you do not have drain holes, you will likely have puddled water in the machine's tray. Bacteria in the air will fester there and grow into grime and toxins. Short of a hospital filtration system to cleanse the inbound air to the machine, you will not be able to stop that.

Best of luck. I think your plan is a step in the right direction.:wink2:
 

· Registered
Joined
·
309 Posts
The aluminum frame that I'd like to glue the sheet to is touching the wood board above the AC. I hope the frame is high enough or else it won't work. I don't want to block the window opening. I think the guy at the aluminum shop can notch the sheet so I can glue the top edge to the frame, all the way across the frame, and then the rest of the sheet can extend out....a lot, eh?
 

Attachments

· Registered
Joined
·
309 Posts
Yes, m_ I had all the bad stuff you mentioned. The water was pooling with algae. They told me to make sure the drain hole keeps dripping, and I could use a Q-tip once in a while to clear it a little. (I only have one drain hole.) I will have it cleaned annually from now on. It's only three years old, and I went three years without covering it in the winter. (I hope covering it with the thing in the picture won't create mildew in winter.)

Thank you for your thoughts on my plan. Glad to know it's worth a try.
 

· Too Much DIY!
Joined
·
628 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It's only three years old, and I went three years without covering it in the winter. (I hope covering it with the thing in the picture won't create mildew in winter.)
I didn't realize you left this installed year-round. I would DEFINITELY try to seal it up through the winter. That will help reduce some of the problem too. And every spring, I'd pull it out and clean it before the summer sets in. That way, all the algae and mildew, if any, will be gone.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top