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Double rim joist or glulam for rim joist

899 Views 7 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  3onthetree
I was wondering if any one has ever use either a glulam in a 4×10 or 4×12 configuration for a rim joist and glulams for floor joists. Or What about a double rim joist. I will explain why I was thinking this. First I wanted to build a house to stand for a 100+ years much like a log home. So in thinking of a log home or a timber frame home they all had one thing in common… well two … First they had huge sill logs or sill timbers, and second back in the day they didn’t have indoor plumbing… ( water is the root of all evil in So My thought was this. I could use either a glulam in a 4×10-12 rim joist, glulams in 3×10-12 floor joists ( no bounce or squeak) and have a solid start to a solid foundation. I also thought of running a double engineered rim joist with water repellent properties and standard floor trusses. What are your thoughts, and doing either one would you recommend either a thicker basement wall , thicker than 8x8x16 cinder block walls and a wider 2×8 pressure treated sill plate or something better?
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I agree, stick with proven principles and conventional construction methods.
Since one of your goals is solid floors with fewer squeaks, try engineered I-joists for your floor joists. They are very straight, and the span charts typically use L/480 deflection criteria which result in a solid floor that is less bouncy than L/360 Code requirements.
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