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Double rim joist or glulam for rim joist

899 Views 7 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  3onthetree
I was wondering if any one has ever use either a glulam in a 4×10 or 4×12 configuration for a rim joist and glulams for floor joists. Or What about a double rim joist. I will explain why I was thinking this. First I wanted to build a house to stand for a 100+ years much like a log home. So in thinking of a log home or a timber frame home they all had one thing in common… well two … First they had huge sill logs or sill timbers, and second back in the day they didn’t have indoor plumbing… ( water is the root of all evil in building..lol.) So My thought was this. I could use either a glulam in a 4×10-12 rim joist, glulams in 3×10-12 floor joists ( no bounce or squeak) and have a solid start to a solid foundation. I also thought of running a double engineered rim joist with water repellent properties and standard floor trusses. What are your thoughts, and doing either one would you recommend either a thicker basement wall , thicker than 8x8x16 cinder block walls and a wider 2×8 pressure treated sill plate or something better?
Thanks.
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For your specific question, a "Glulam" is used for certain design properties which your rim joist doesn't warrant. Using actual glulams for floor joists is money wasted, there are better options.

In general though, many people have a sentiment that to build it "better," or "stronger," or to "last longer," they need to thicken, or double, or do redundant things without first understanding their purpose and what doing so actually accomplishes. There is a member on this forum that does everything like this, and what it shows is for most things it's really a psychological pacifier rather than a building science or reasoned action.

So bumping a sill plate up from a 2x6 to a 2x8 will not make your building last longer if the loads don't warrant it. I work on 120 year old houses with no sill plate whatsoever. What you have to do is think about each building system as a whole, then it's parts, and how to make those work right, obtaining quality materials, with the technology and knowledge that exists today. Because in the next 100 years, your house will probably be ripped apart anyway and rebuilt with new technology and knowledge for that time.
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