[Lupus71]

I am building a 16x24 shed for light woodworking and im about to start on the subfloor. I was wondering do I need to double the rim joists and band? I'm using 2x8x 16 with another 2x8x8 for the longest span, joists 16 o.c, and one 2x8 in the center of the building to divide the joist length. I have 12 footers.

 

[joecaption]

Not a bad idea on a "shed" that big.
Just make sure there over laped not just butted in the middle if the run.

 

[Lupus71]

How would you suggest over lapping them? You mean tie the 16 footer to the 8 footer for the 24' sides? Like put a scab of ply across them?

 

[joecaption]

Yes except there's no need for the scab. Just lay the footings out so one will fall where the two over lap.
Use plenty of nails.
If the joist are going to be within 16" of the ground your going to need pressure treatd joist and ACQ approved nails.

 

[kwikfishron]

Double the rim that runs parallel to the joist. There’s no need to double when the joist run perpendicular or into the rim.

 

[AndyGump]

I understand of course that you are not a professional builder, but that said I would never design a woodworking shed in the manner that you are describing.
A single rim joist is all that is really needed, a second one is superfluous IMO.
I would say that your center beam of one 2 x 8 is woefully lacking also, at least use 2-2 x 10s.
I have no idea how you intend to support any of this too.

Andy.

 

[Lupus71]

Huh? 2x10s? I thought 2x8 was pushing overkill. Don't get me wrong I really appreciate the help but I framed houses for a few years and we used 2x10 joists for houses. Not a lot of weight, but anyway why would the center beam be too small and not the load bearing walls?

 

[carpdad]

Is this 16x24 shed with stud walls, siding, ceiling, rafters, roof deck and roofing? That is lot of weight to slap down on earth.

Maybe take the deck as a model. Average deck needs a support every 8 feet.

All the necessary lumber is going to cost some money, although there is the fun in diy. For a light duty shelter, you may want to look into half round shelters made out of pipes and canvas/plastic cover?

 

[Lupus71]

Yes studs 16"o.c. Siding, no sheetrock, 2x4 trusses, decking, shingles3/4 pt ply floor, about 1000#s of tools.

 

[Lupus71]

Bump up

 

[carpdad]

From the initial post, I imagined a light sheetmetal shed. For your needs, you need double 2x10 rims and middle girder and supported at least 8 feet on center, like a deck. Double 2x8 with supports every 6 feet, but you should check the span chart on that. When doubling 2x, overlap at 1/2 way point. Supports should go down below your frost depth for your area. Looks like other advisers read your question right.

Tools rust, so I would build this tight to the air flow. I would not use garage doors.

Raise the shed at least a foot from the ground and grade it so rain does not pool under the shed.

Truss limits your ceiling height, may be inconvenient working with plywood. You may want to double the floor and ceiling plates to give you few extra inches, and use full length studs.

Depending on your area, all connections may change for the high wind/hurricane codes.

BTW, posts are very easy to dig and install with a rental auger. If you hit a big rock below a frost line, you can use it as a footing.

 

[Lupus71]

Thanks still not sure what you mean by over lapping also I already have block piers 8' oc.

 

[Two Toe]

I am building a 16x24 shed for light woodworking and im about to start on the subfloor. I was wondering do I need to double the rim joists and band? I'm using 2x8x 16 with another 2x8x8 for the longest span, joists 16 o.c, and one 2x8 in the center of the building to divide the joist length. I have 12 footers.