DIY Home Improvement Forum banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
152 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello All,

I have a Maytag Gemeni double oven, with 5 stop top burners, but in both ovens, the bottom elements have stopped working, albeit within a year time of each other.

i.e. top oven the bottom element stopped working in 2018, and the bottom oven bottom element stopped working YESTERDAY...

Did some googling and youtubing, and everyone says test the elements for continuity and replace as needed. However I have not found a video that goes beyond that. So I tested both elements as directed in my research using my multi-meter and both elements did have continuity... So apparently replacing the elements wont' resolve the issue it seems.

Not sure what to do next?

appreciate any input and advise..

Sean P

p.s. Can yall recommend a good oven replacement? Actually we do need a new fridge, dishwasher, and microwave oven as well. So if there is a bundle that would be sweet in case we have to go down the replacement option.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
147 Posts
Just out of curiosity, when you checked for continuity, was the element disconnected from the oven wiring? If so, then the element is probably good. Are you getting proper voltage to the oven?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,774 Posts
If you are talking double oven, fridge, dishwasher and microwave, you may have some bargaining power in a small chain of appliance stores, where you can talk to the owner or manager. They have more power to discount on multiple units than those know nothing clerks at the big box stores.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
152 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Just out of curiosity, when you checked for continuity, was the element disconnected from the oven wiring? If so, then the element is probably good. Are you getting proper voltage to the oven?
From the top oven I disconnected and removed the top oven element that was working fine..

From the bottom oven I disconnected and removed the bottom oven element that was not heating at all.


I followed along some videos I found to test for continuity and both the working and "non" working element tested positive for continuity which leads me to believe the issue is elsewhere.

Oven stovetops all work fine with no issues, and ovens both heat up but ONLY on the top elements.

On both ovens the bottom elements do not heat at all.


So I assume I'm getting proper voltage to the oven.. not sure what else to try?
 

·
Remodel and New Build GC
Joined
·
9,461 Posts
was it something I said?
Sean....No...It was not something you said.....

I'm thinking no one has a GOOD recommendation for GOOD appliances....except maybe really high end.

I've had all new Samsung with very light use and they have been nothing BUT TROUBLE. I take every oportunity to warn people of my experience.

The problem is that I do not know of a reliable alternative today.

As to your oven...I am not any appliance expert, and the fact that you have two elements out is very confusing to me.

I had a single element go out years ago on a single opven. The control board was somewhere around $400 and not worthwhile to put in an old appliance. However, I tore into the back of it and got to the control panel at a friends suggestion. On the board were a series of relays , and some schmatics that showed which was the element relay. Ordered new relay, and had a computer guy unsolder and resolder the new one in.....it was just the relay which cost about 10 with shipping and the computer guy did it for nothing and I tipped him 20.

I went to that trouble because it was right near the holidays, and we were going to redo the kitchen later and did not want to comit to appliances yet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,072 Posts
How did you diagnose it was the control board?

How easy was it to replace it?

How expensive is the control board?

I tried new igniter because it was easy and cheap at at 10+ years about time for new. It didn't work.


The only thing left in the wiring diagram was the control board. It was $150.
https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Oven-Control-Board/316557105/1719790
Fairly easy to replace; take the back off, remove screws holding board in place. Unplug it, and install new.
The only issue was detaching the front screen from the old board; it was held to it on the perimeter by some sticky stuff. I used a butter knife to separate it. It stuck to the new board no problem.
I figured a new stove was like > $1000 and my $150 experiment was about 2x of a tech coming to diagnose so why not? These ovens aren't horribly complicated after all. Just oversized toasters.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,451 Posts
Continuity is not the end of the checking.
You need to measure the ohms across the element.
Also before doing anything, run your hand all the way around the element. When they fail, sometimes its very apparent if you check.

Anyway here's what to do.
1) Take a visual and a physical check of the elements. Feel the whole thing.

2) Take one wire loose from the element and measure the resistance in OHMs. Do this by looking at the elements voltage and wattage listed on the element itself.
Use this calculator below to determine the resistance value. You might be surprised at how accurate this can be. But if your numbers are close, you should be good.
https://www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/ohms-law-calculator.html

3) If both elements check out good. You want to check for voltage. Connect your meter to both elements terminals or wires if not connected.
Make sure your meter is set to AC volts.
Turn on the oven and check the voltage.

If the elements test good by checking their resistance and you are certain the voltage is present at the element terminals, you will need to take this step further to see exactly whats wrong. Do you feel confident enough to go deeper?

Note: There should be a wiring diagram for your oven. See if you can find it. You will need it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,427 Posts
Sean, how old is your unit? Have there been any other issues besides the elements?

Not sure where you live bc it's not on your profile, but what is the weather like where you live? Storms, lightening? Do you have any surge protectors in your service panel(s)?

Next, here's a link to another thread that may be quite applicable to your problem...It was the ERC Board "MayTag Gemini Problem Solved !

Yes you were correct, it was the ERC Board .. thanks for your help."

https://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/threads/maytag-gemini-double-oven-issues.36948/

Finally, you can definitely get better package deals. Whomever you are dealing w, tell them you're getting 3 bids and make sure the delivery dates are firm

Good luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
147 Posts
Last thing I can think of for a DIY is to check for voltage on the leads going to the element? You should read about 240 volts between the two terminals. With the oven on. Other than that it’s “to the schematic we go”.

I should note that this check can be dangerous if you’re not familiar with electricity, it can have repercussions and I would call someone into diagnose the problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,427 Posts
“ I should note that this check can be dangerous if you’re not familiar with electricity, it can have repercussions and I would call someone into diagnose the problem.”

Service;
I would concur 100% that any quasi testing of 240V w out crystal clear confidence from past experience is indeed risky at best.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top