[Thomas Kleaton]

Hi! I am asking if anyone can tell me if this framing can be removed completely. It was a linen closet in upstairs bathroom, and it did have (2) 2 X 10's over the opening along with 2 cripple studs above it, but there was no plywood layer glued between the 2 by 10's.

I don't think these walls are load-bearing; one is a wet wall for the tub supply piping. What I want to do is remove only the 2 x 4" wet wall to right and remainder of door opening framing, and install new tub here. There is access to install tub plumbing from a closet behind wall to left in photos.

I will sister joists underneath (has 2 x 10" joists) and install new 3/4" plywood subfloor here. Two of joists were sistered (Had scratched-up Kohler cast iron tub. I'm replacing with Kohler Bellwether K8370 cast iron tub) but one of them had a section removed to accomodate bathtub drain.

Which means I may have to sister this joist on the other side to avoid the same drain problem.

Thanks for any replies!

 

[Nealtw]

With or with out plywood in a header is not an indicator.

It appears that both rafters and ceiling joists land on the exterior wall so this is not likely needed for any loads above.

 

[Thomas Kleaton]

With or with out plywood in a header is not an indicator.

It appears that both rafters and ceiling joists land on the exterior wall so this is not likely needed for any loads above.

Thanks for the input, Neal! I will mention that the open exterior wall shown and the wall to the left both sit solidly on concrete block walls below this floor. Hole in the floor and roof are where a vent pipe for gas water heater (have electric now) were. I could use the subfloor that's there, but figure I need to replace it while everything's out.

On a side note, the floor joist where rear of tub will be sits directly under and flush with wall framing on block wall, and since subfloor is sandwiched between framing and joist, I will have to cut old subfloor out with toe kick saw there and add sister joist so new subfloor has something to sit on.

I'm really surprised no one put insulation there in the wall between the bathroom and attic of center level.

 

[ront02769]

Headers are specified normally as the number of layers of dimensional lumber, e.g. 2/2x8, 2/2x10, etc. in two bye fra Ming, this leaves yuo 1/2” of “space to deal with. In “the day”, it was common to slip a few pieces of 1/2” ply in the middle.....then just a full piece of ply one one side or the other. With two bye six framing common, in my area we are either substituting a single lvl for the header or building the double header from dimensional lumber. Then it gets the appropriate thickness of foam board followed by full 1/2” ply for nailing.

Many ways to build a house, few agreed upon by all!

 

[Nealtw]

Headers are specified normally as the number of layers of dimensional lumber, e.g. 2/2x8, 2/2x10, etc. in two bye fra Ming, this leaves yuo 1/2” of “space to deal with. In “the day”, it was common to slip a few pieces of 1/2” ply in the middle.....then just a full piece of ply one one side or the other. With two bye six framing common, in my area we are either substituting a single lvl for the header or building the double header from dimensional lumber. Then it gets the appropriate thickness of foam board followed by full 1/2” ply for nailing.

Many ways to build a house, few agreed upon by all!

We can't do anything to cover them up because the inspectors want to see our nails