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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I started installing some laminate flooring today,when i tried opening the apartment door i noticed the bottom of the door scraping the flooring.


The door is not low enough that it completely stops,but obviously over time it's going to mess the floor up.


The flooring is 8 mm thick so i could possibly get thinner but i really don't want to repurchase 300 sq. ft of flooring especially since i don't have my own transportation.



Looking at the pics,can you guys tell if someone could easily adjust the doors higher off the ground?


Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
 

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Do you have access to a circular saw? Easiest fix is to take the door off, and cut whatever is required off the bottom of the door. Looks like 1/4" or so should do it. Not a big deal other than you're in an apartment, this is done all the time.

It's unlikely that you have enough room in the jamb to raise the door and hinges. After reading Stick's reply, a hand plane is probably a better tool for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the replies,planing the door does sound like the easiest way forward.
I noticed that when i stand on the flooring it doesn't make contact,this had me thinking that maybe after i complete the room and put some molding to fasten it,i might create enough room.
If that doesn't happen then planing is probably what i'll do.
 

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Do you own this apartment?
If so did you get permission before doing this?
Main thing I see is if you in the US (there's no location in your profile that would help everyone with code issues) no way is that door even legal.
It should have been at least a one hour fire proof door.
 

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That looks like a very old house/apartment and a new hollow core (with grain stamped) door put in, although I don't see frame nail holes, just a couple screws (including in the head). That door frame will probably twist a lot as the door leaf opens and closes. Even if nailed correctly and those holes were filled (doubt from looking at the brown paint), the added screws would indicate it was twisting.

The reason I nitpick on that 1.) an old house will be moving a lot and the door may need "adjusted" periodically to account for that 2.) the door itself may sag/lower without proper fastening 3.) you may need to shave not only the bottom but lock side too periodically.

So therefore if you are just starting (or being forced to buy) a tool collection, a palm sander (and extra patience) might be a better more versatile beginner buy than a hand planer, especially used in this case with the paper product face veneers and probably the bottom block too.

But, you may need a circular saw, as really there should be enough room for a sweep under the door. It looks like a threshold has been removed, or the hall floor, can't tell. But should not have a clear gap under the door for safety, smoke, smells, and privacy. I'll also second the need for a solid core rated door if it's a real apartment.

Another thing about the give in the floor. Can't tell if you have an underlayment, I'm used to seeing purple, blue and green products. But you really shouldn't have much give in the laminate.
 

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Cut the door down.
 

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Doorway has no threshold. Install threshold. Measure from header to threshold, subtract 1/8". Cut bottom of door to that length. Door will be above laminate flooring when open and with acceptable clearance between door and threshold when closed.
 

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Minor interference between the bottom of the door and the floor can be rectified with a 12" x 12" sheet of medium sandpaper. With the door open, slide the sandpaper under the door and hold the sandpaper steady with your feet. Slowly brush the door across the sandpaper and it will evenly remove the interference. Easy as pie.

If the interference is major, I usually draw a straight line on either side of the door, remove the door, and plane it down with a belt sander until it touches my line.
 

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If you have to ask, it will probably be safer for the door if you use House Designer's sandpaper method rather than a saw or a plane. (Nice paint job!)
 
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