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i carved this sword
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265 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
i was wondering something, if i was to locate SAFE (looking at codes and such to avoid bad chemicals) recycled materials to build dog houses to sell, assuming*laughs because its not likely* anyone would buy them, i was wondering, can studs for a dog house safely be 1x3's or would i have to go with 2x's? if i can go with 1x's, would i have to go with 3.5 inch wide and shorten the spacing to 8 o.c. or is 2.5 wide and 16 o.c. fine? for the roofing (and siding) i was thinking of shiplapping or cheap shingles, dont want to put too much money in it(the recycled material is free), would a 16ga nailer be ok to do the framing or would i need something more like deck screws?
 

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retired painter
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Most of the dog houses I've built have been done with scrap lumber. 2x2s work well for the framing.
 

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Registered
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Kitchen cabinets have no frames so some cleats to hold the boards together may give you enough meat to put the pieces together. Like how doors are made with narrow boards? Then top can be cut to a bevel to match the roof slope.
 

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In a little over my head
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1,248 Posts
The last doghouse I built was framed with 2x2's. I just put 'em at the corners, to nail to. Didn't worry about OC. It's still solid, 8 years later.
 

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retired framer
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44,228 Posts
How big a dog house are you taking about
 

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i carved this sword
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265 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
What are you thinking for siding , floor and roofing?
i was thinking of recycled 1x material, maybe a little caulking as needed, the recycled material would be pallet wood BUT ONLY clean pallet wood, checked for codes and such, if no code then it only had nontoxic stuff on it, but if i see EUR or MB, i know better than to use that.
 

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retired framer
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44,228 Posts
I think you have a uphill battle to build anything to sell like that. One size does not match every dog and every dog owner will have a different idea what would make a quality build.
 

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i carved this sword
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265 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I think you have a uphill battle to build anything to sell like that. One size does not match every dog and every dog owner will have a different idea what would make a quality build.
im not married to the size, i thought of some smaller ones too, this one is just what the plastic dog house on the front porch is, i just need to know the basics from the first post
 

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i carved this sword
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265 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I think you need a good supply of 2x2 for the framing.
How to build a doghouse - YouTube
ok so 1x wouldn't be enough for studs for this, i can rip the 2xs from the pallets, and um assuming that means no to framing with the 16ga, so that means needing the impact driver,,,, unless, thinks a bit would using 1xs be ok for the plates? i did make a couple chicken wire walls when our dog had yet another litter of pups, im wondering if that would be good for dog houses too, with all 3 plates (top,bottom, double). how would that be?
 

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retired framer
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44,228 Posts
ok so 1x wouldn't be enough for studs for this, i can rip the 2xs from the pallets, and um assuming that means no to framing with the 16ga, so that means needing the impact driver,,,, unless, thinks a bit would using 1xs be ok for the plates? i did make a couple chicken wire walls when our dog had yet another litter of pups, im wondering if that would be good for dog houses too, with all 3 plates (top,bottom, double). how would that be?
Once you have a base or floor figured out you could just build Ls for the corners and put the siding inside that, no studs as such.
648918
 

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i carved this sword
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265 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Once you have a base or floor figured out you could just build Ls for the corners and put the siding inside that, no studs as such.
View attachment 648918
Ls for corners, never thought of that for houses, i did those for the front porch table and the grill table out back, now im thinking of 2xs to make a box and a joist or too, then 1xs for flooring
 

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In a little over my head
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1,248 Posts
Have you worked with pallet wood before? I tried, and gave up. Pulling the nails is just about impossible. If you can use the length of the tops/slats between the bottoms/skids, you're golden. Just cut the pallet apart. But I had a heck of a time pulling the nails to get the slats off. So ripping the skids was a no go. One or two table saw blades hitting a nail, and any "free wood" savings was gone. Maybe the pallets in your area come apart easier.
 

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i carved this sword
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265 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Have you worked with pallet wood before? I tried, and gave up. Pulling the nails is just about impossible. If you can use the length of the tops/slats between the bottoms/skids, you're golden. Just cut the pallet apart. But I had a heck of a time pulling the nails to get the slats off. So ripping the skids was a no go. One or two table saw blades hitting a nail, and any "free wood" savings was gone. Maybe the pallets in your area come apart easier.
ive busted up a number of pallets, it can take a bit of elbow grease,but i turn the side with fewer slats to face me, and just saw the slats where the end skids are (those 2x pieces? ), wiggle untill the slat is loosened from the middle, then flip it over,put a 2x4 under the slat with another 2x to get a gap between the skid and the floor, and take a short handle sledge hammer and a piece of 2x4 or piece of skid, and put the 2x piece on the skid between the slats and strike the 2x. as for the nails i just use a regular hammer, a flat pry bar, and a vice grip, id like to get a couple tools, a pallet buster bar with articulated head and an "air locker "denailer, just slip over the nail and shoot (over a bucket) ill draw an example of what i mean on busting, i can be hard to understand without pics
 

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