Do you two half studs make a full stud?

3668 Views 16 Replies 12 Participants Last post by woodworkbykirk, Feb 15, 2013

hankbeasley

Discussion Starter · Feb 15, 2013

3

I have a contractor doing some remodeling work for me. He removed the top half of a load bearing wall to make a raised bar. Then the plans changed and we needed to put the wall back. Look at how he put the studs back.

You can't see it from the picture but the new purple studs do not go to the ground. The new studs overlap the old cut off studs by about 6 six inches and then they are nailed together. I do not know very much about carpentry but this seems very wrong to me. If it is wrong how wrong is it? And is there any safe way to replace only the half of the stud that was cut off without replacing the full studs? A way that would pass building code?

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1 - 17 of 17 Posts

hyunelan2

· #2 · Feb 15, 2013

If the former load bearing wall was cut out, was the load carried in some other way? If so, I don't think these would not need to support anything, and are just there to hold drywall - a partition wall.

hankbeasley

Discussion Starter · #3 · Feb 15, 2013

There was plans for a support beam but it was never put in. So no, the load is not carried another way. Above these studs is two 2x4's stacked and perpendicular joist.

ddawg16

· #4 · Feb 15, 2013

If that bent over nail is any indication of work quality....I'd be concerned.

Wood is cheap....if load bearing, the studs need to go all the way to the floor. That 6" lap will have almost no strength.

hankbeasley

Discussion Starter · #5 · Feb 15, 2013

There are some wires running through the bottom have of the studs. When I tell him this is not going to work he may try put another cut off stud directly on top of the cut off ones with a some kind of bracket. Its that ok or do I need to make him replace all studs with full length studs?

gogetter

· #6 · Feb 15, 2013

What you have described is NOT acceptable. If the plans changes were your decision, you need to pay him to do the job correctly. The building inspector will not sign off on this "repair".

Nailbags

· #7 · Feb 15, 2013

Whoa! I would be very upset that is not going to fly. why was a load bearing wall cut in the first place? who's brilliant idea was that? and how was the load supported? and what he did will not work period! also whats up with mauve studs?

joecaption

· #8 · Feb 15, 2013

He should have installed 2 X 4's laying flat at the top and bottom the filled in the rest of the area with what amounts to cripple studs that sit over the old studs. No differant then filling in an old window or door opening.

Reactions: 1

hankbeasley

Discussion Starter · #9 · Feb 15, 2013 (Edited)

What you are describing sounds reasonable and safe. Do you think it will pass inspection? I have tried searching through building code. I cannot find any related material.

hankbeasley

Discussion Starter · #10 · Feb 15, 2013

I called the inspector. He confirmed the only way to do this is with full length studs. Thanks.

joed

· #11 · Feb 15, 2013

If that wall is load bearing then that is not acceptable. The load is being carried by whatever fastener he used between the two studs.
At the very least the pink studs should have been set on top of the cut studs and a new piece sistered across the joint. This way the load is transfer straight down. And I am not even sure that is suitable. I am not an engineer.

kwikfishron

· #12 · Feb 15, 2013

hankbeasley said:
I have a contractor

No you don't!

I think it's time for you to step back and reevaluate your choice on who's working on your house.

Anyone that would even attempt what you're showing in the pictures has no clue of what there doing.

Scary stuff.

Reactions: 1

hankbeasley

Discussion Starter · #13 · Feb 15, 2013

Yeah, that was part of question too. It seems obviously wrong to me.

Gymschu

· #14 · Feb 15, 2013

Some of those studs look awfully out of plumb.

md2lgyk

· #15 · Feb 15, 2013

What's with the purple studs?? Where are you located??

Joe Carola

· #16 · Feb 15, 2013

hankbeasley said:
I called the inspector. He confirmed the only way to do this is with full length studs. Thanks.

There ya go....you have your answer. Now hire a REAL contractor with a license and insurance to fix the problem after the sheetrock is taken out and AFTER a licensed electricians takes out the wires .

Then the REAL contractor can put the studs in and an electrician can drill holes in the studs to put the wires back in.

Does this so called contractor have a license and insurance ?

woodworkbykirk

· #17 · Feb 15, 2013

im with joe caption on this one.. if its no longer a bearing wall.what should have been done is a sil plate put on top of the cut off studs. then the purple studs could be nailed down to that and then the top plate

by lapping them with only a 6" splice the joint can pivot.. theres no strength there

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

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