I had a local HVAC tech check my HVAC out. He was outside a short time, came back in and said I needed a new compressor. I said I'd have to talk to my wife to see if we had the funds.
I thought he was out there for REALLY short amount of time, something like 10 minutes. I wondered if he really checked anything at all. So, I got to reading this forum and a few others, and I did some testing and checking myself, and I don't think the compressor is bad at all--assuming I did the checking and testing right.
I swapped the thermostat with another identical thermostat on another system, and both thermostats work on the other system.
As the contacts on the contactor were burned and had a small patch of black soot surrounding each contactor, I replaced it with a Mars2 17311 24 volt Contactor Relay, 1 Pole 30 Amp. The compressor still didn’t run. It seems like, if the original contactor were actually bad, this should have taken care of it, but it didn’t. However, the compressor does come on if I push in the contact button in the center of the Mars2 contactor.
This Mars2 contactor seemed a little light and not as heavy duty as the original one (don’t know info on label as it was faded), so I thought I’d get another one that seemed to look and feel a little more like the original one. I am replacing it with a Cutler-Hammer C25CNB130T Contactor , 30 Amp , 1+ Pole , 24 VAC Coil C25CNB130T.
In the mean time, does anyone have any suggestions as to what else I should test and how?
Interestingly, on another forum, one reply said a compressor could be found to be bad in 10 minutes, but he didn't address the ohm readings I took. If I took them right they were as listed below. If understand the compressor ohming procedures correctly, the ohm reading from the COMMON terminal to START terminal and the ohms from the COMMON terminal to the RUN terminal, when added together should equal the ohms reading from the RUN terminal to the START terminal. They seem to as noted below.
The information on the data plates is as follows:
Payne compressor assembly
Model# PH12NA0204-A
Serial# PH12NA024000AAAA
Copeland Compliant Scroll Compressor
Model# ZR22K3-PFV-230
Serial# 99D3989AL
Compressor ohms:
C-S = 1.9 ohms
C-R = 1.1 ohms
R-S = 3.0 to 3.1 ohms (meter kept fluctuating)
Capacitor uf readings as listed on label:
7.5 uf (the lower reading is the fan I believe?)
40 uf
Capacitor readings as tested from C-Fan and C-Herm:
7.5uf
40uf
Fan motor ohms :
Brown-Yellow = 56.2 ohms
Brown-Black = 44.6 ohms
Black-Yellow = 32.7 ohms
Thank you all again for any help or clarification.
Lee
I thought he was out there for REALLY short amount of time, something like 10 minutes. I wondered if he really checked anything at all. So, I got to reading this forum and a few others, and I did some testing and checking myself, and I don't think the compressor is bad at all--assuming I did the checking and testing right.
I swapped the thermostat with another identical thermostat on another system, and both thermostats work on the other system.
As the contacts on the contactor were burned and had a small patch of black soot surrounding each contactor, I replaced it with a Mars2 17311 24 volt Contactor Relay, 1 Pole 30 Amp. The compressor still didn’t run. It seems like, if the original contactor were actually bad, this should have taken care of it, but it didn’t. However, the compressor does come on if I push in the contact button in the center of the Mars2 contactor.
This Mars2 contactor seemed a little light and not as heavy duty as the original one (don’t know info on label as it was faded), so I thought I’d get another one that seemed to look and feel a little more like the original one. I am replacing it with a Cutler-Hammer C25CNB130T Contactor , 30 Amp , 1+ Pole , 24 VAC Coil C25CNB130T.
In the mean time, does anyone have any suggestions as to what else I should test and how?
Interestingly, on another forum, one reply said a compressor could be found to be bad in 10 minutes, but he didn't address the ohm readings I took. If I took them right they were as listed below. If understand the compressor ohming procedures correctly, the ohm reading from the COMMON terminal to START terminal and the ohms from the COMMON terminal to the RUN terminal, when added together should equal the ohms reading from the RUN terminal to the START terminal. They seem to as noted below.
The information on the data plates is as follows:
Payne compressor assembly
Model# PH12NA0204-A
Serial# PH12NA024000AAAA
Copeland Compliant Scroll Compressor
Model# ZR22K3-PFV-230
Serial# 99D3989AL
Compressor ohms:
C-S = 1.9 ohms
C-R = 1.1 ohms
R-S = 3.0 to 3.1 ohms (meter kept fluctuating)
Capacitor uf readings as listed on label:
7.5 uf (the lower reading is the fan I believe?)
40 uf
Capacitor readings as tested from C-Fan and C-Herm:
7.5uf
40uf
Fan motor ohms :
Brown-Yellow = 56.2 ohms
Brown-Black = 44.6 ohms
Black-Yellow = 32.7 ohms
Thank you all again for any help or clarification.
Lee