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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I took down the popcorn texture in my ceiling, sanded it well, filled it spots with joint compound, sanded them, wiped it down, and then primed it with Kiltz 3 Premium High Hide primer.

And then sanded that lightly.

With the primer on, I saw places I needed to patch and did so again joint compound, sanded it well, wiped it down and then primed it again with Kiltz 3 Premium High Hide primer.

This second coat laid down very well, not thin. But I can see "through" the primer where the places I patched with joint compound show up. Some 'flashing' as well when the light comes in from the windows.

Now I know this is just primer, but do I need to prime again for the third time or will two coats of good flat ceiling paint do the job so these don't show through?
 

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Kilz? that sh!t is total garbage.

Stop using it.

In your situation i Would suggest a product by PPG, called Gripper. Its a latex based primer, with high build properties, which is what you want.

Go with your choice of ceiling paint. Sherwin Williams Promar Ceiling paint is nice stuff with great coverage for like $16/gallon
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Unfortunately in the area I live, unless I make a trip of it, getting to a BM paint store is very inconvenient. There is a SW store right near where I work, and I looked at one of their ceiling paints--but the reviews on it were terrible.

Being not a professional, I am not sure of the reputation of the Kiltz Premium 3. I see it gets great reviews on HD's website and to be upfront, I used it in the same situation. I removed a popcorn ceiling in our bedroom and did almost exactly the same steps above. Except, I spot rolled the drywall patches with that primer and then completely covered the ceiling with the second coat. Then two final coats of paint. Honestly it looks fantastic. Not a bid of flashing or visible flaws.

Nevertheless, I'll look for something referenced above next time.
 

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The only issue you will have from kilz is if water stains pop through. If you see water stains bleeding through the primer, hit them with a spray can of stain blocking oil primer. BIN, if you can find it.

Other than that, its just primer, and you really dont need to worry about it.
 

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For future reference, one coat of primer is sufficient. Now, if you go patching spots you may have missed the first time around, well, you can "spot prime" just those areas, you really don't need to re-prime the whole ceiling. Then, 2 coats of ceiling paint and you should be able to "call it done." Emminence is the ceiling paint you are likely referencing about bad reviews. Years ago, SW had Classic 99 ceiling paint and it was great stuff. It actually covered most ceilings in one coat (flat white). You can use SW's flat wall paint called CHP for better ceiling coverage, and, believe it or not, ProMar 400 for some odd reason, covers nicely on ceilings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I did not see the last response until just now. But early tonight I spot primed a second coat of primer on a few of the areas where the drywall patching was showing up after the first primer coat. {Everywhere else had a second coat earlier.} I didn't soak the paint roller, but sort of used the paint on the roller I had wrapped up from the first coat. Didn't want to create a paint ridge.

Here is a picture of it after it dried. Do you think two coats of ceiling paint will properly hide it then in light of what you have shared and the fact I spot primed over it?
 

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Primer is used to seal the surface so that the moisture in the final paint is not absorbed at different rates, thus causing shading and adherence differences that can be seen.

Use of Kilz (especially the original, non water-based Kilz) is fine. Pretty much any product that is environmentally friendly is inferior to the old stuff.

Taking your time and patching the new spots you found and then priming those spots is very good work.

AND, knowing to use two coat of color AFTER priming is what a real professional is supposed to do. (Some folks argue that they ALWAYS use such-n-such a brand and don't need primer or more than one coat - They'd never do work for me...)

I'm betting you'll have a job you can be proud of.

Popcorn ceilings are a ***** and many fall off because they were NEVER primed.
 

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Primers don't always cover well. They are meant seal to prevent bleed through into the top coat.
I would go to the ceiling paint.
Blockers prevent bleed through.

Primers are to provide a consistent substrate so that the moisture of the color coats are absorbed/dry at the same rate across the entire surface.
 

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There are a lot of primers out there, each one tailored towards certain needs. Some focus more on coverage, some on adhesion and some for sealing.


Popcorn ceilings are a ***** and many fall off because they were NEVER primed.

The main reason the texture falls is because it was never painted and moisture/humidity has degraded the texture. Lack of primer isn't a big issue but never having been painted is. The paint helps the popcorn resist absorbing moisture.
 

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I would hit those spots again with the primer. Those are pretty serious "shiners." Then, hit them (spot paint) once or twice with the ceiling paint before re-coating the entire ceiling. That usually takes care of it. I know I have to hit patches 2, 3, sometimes 4 times to make sure they don't flash. About the time you only hit them once, they flash through the finish coat(s).
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I took your advice. Last night I spot primed them after dinner and hours later before bed. Then, I said to myself, "Hey, I have an almost gallon of the primer left" so I primed the whole thing again tonight.

I see what you mean by "shiners." To me they look like "dullers" when I compare it to the sheen of the surrounding ceiling. :smile:

Never heard of spot painting an area first before putting topcoat on entire surface. Learn something new everyday! Thank you!
 

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I did not see the last response until just now. But early tonight I spot primed a second coat of primer on a few of the areas where the drywall patching was showing up after the first primer coat. {Everywhere else had a second coat earlier.} I didn't soak the paint roller, but sort of used the paint on the roller I had wrapped up from the first coat. Didn't want to create a paint ridge.

Here is a picture of it after it dried. Do you think two coats of ceiling paint will properly hide it then in light of what you have shared and the fact I spot primed over it?
ceilings are tough, as any imperfections tend to show up (angle of light tends to amplify any issues). Flat is by far the most forgiving sheen.

I prefer to give 3 coats of Flat for most ceilings. Primer is not needed (maybe 1 coat if there are problems) Anything less than 3 coats risks showing lap marks, ghosting, shadowing, etc...

Keeping a continuous wet edge when painting a ceiling is the hardest part. Painting wet into dry (anytime! on a ceiling) tends to leave lap marks. Your picture looks like you touched-up a dry area, or painted into an area that was starting to dry (ie., tacky)and that is why you can see a lap mark.
 

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Oh for goodness sakes guys, we are painting flat paint on a ceiling, we don't need to worry about any of this. The ceiling is ready to be painted. Flashing is only an issue now because primers have a little sheen to them. Flat paint is going to cover all that over. Paint. Go.
 
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