Do I have to glue and nail 7 1/2" flooring
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Joined
·
454 Posts
If the flooring is solid then any flooring over 5" should be glued and nailed. It sounds like it is engineered flooring. If it is you only need to nail it. Solid flooring will cup. I have seen 3" flooring cup with alot of humidity present. An engineered floor is more stable, because of the cris crossing layers of wood it will not expand and contract very much.
It's a solid rustic grade (has some knots, burl, ect). So glue only or glue and nail/staple. I really appreciate the quick answer, I will be installing this floor over the holidays and want to make sure its done right. Its going over advantec osb sub-floor, can I use Bosticks best or is their something better.
Joined
·
37,461 Posts
Why not check with the company that made the flooring for there suggestions on installing it. There the ones going to be looking for an excuess not to warrenty it if it's installed wrong.
I bought the flooring at auction at a very good price ($1.65) so no warranty. We're building a log home and we think it will look great. But even at that price I don't want it to fail after a few months, I'm looking for the best method possible. The one person that told me to not use glue said "with a plank that wide it will expand at a different rate that the sub-floor and if I glue it it will pop off the sub-floor for sure. Like everything I guess everyone is an expert, he was a salesman at a flooring store, don't even know if he ever installed a floor. I really appreciate the info I get here - Thank You.
Joined
·
6,050 Posts
I agree with woodman. All solid hardwood 5" wide and over need to be glued and nailed. I would do the same even if it was engineered, but may not be necessary.
Although you're not expecting a warranty, you should still research the right way to do it. There should be a manufacturer's name on the boxes, no? Even if not I would check other manufacturers' instructions for a similar item.
So, is it solid or engineered?
Jaz
Although you're not expecting a warranty, you should still research the right way to do it. There should be a manufacturer's name on the boxes, no? Even if not I would check other manufacturers' instructions for a similar item.
So, is it solid or engineered?
Jaz
Its solid, I wasn't questioning his reply, He said to glue it and I just wanted to know if I should nail it also. Although I'm a licensed builder I got into the energy conservation business at a very early age, it has been good to me and their aren't many that have 40 years experience in this field. If any of you guys ever need any info in this field feel free to email me. I'm also a certified Dept. of Energy inspector. I'm now 61 and building my retirement home in northern MI. and learning a lot about all the other trades.
Thank's to all of you
Dave
Thank's to all of you
Dave
Joined
·
454 Posts
Sdave5, I have amended my first post. I did not realize I left out the nailing part. It will need to be glued and nailed. You don't need to full spread the floor with glue. Just use liquid nail (or equivilent adhesive) and zigzag down the middle at least 3" to 4" wide. If you do it this way the floor will not fail.
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Join the discussion
