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the Musigician
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Discussion Starter #1
i saw a commercial for ProCaulk today. it's a square(ish) rubber 'tool' for smoothing caulk as you do tubs, etc. i thought to myself, "self, you already DO that!" what i've always done is cut out that same shape more or less from an old plastic milk jug! they have various thicknesses on a jug so you can make it as 'stiff' as is comfortable for you.

i also use the jugs as guitar picks! free, various mm thick and always disposable. i use thick from the bottom for my bass picks, and thin from the side for my 12 string. they're better than a lot of purchased i've used only to have them crack in half during a heavy jam on stage. they NEVER break!

anyone else have any diy tools/tricks they'd like to share here?

DM
 

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Humm.... i use napkins as my coffie filters :p

Toss them picks out (well maybe keep acouple for the 12 string) for the bass and 6 use your fingers !
Its been awhile but if you grow and then trim your nails to the right lengh (with your teeth of course) they work great, so much more control, easyer to mute... atleast for me.
 

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Lic. Builder/GC/Remodeler
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For latex based caulking, the best shaping tool is what is at the end of your arm: Your fingers (to wipe it down)...
 

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Bread wadded up and jammed in a copper pipe to prevent water from getting at the joint while soldering. Works great.
 

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the Musigician
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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
i imagine it'd work just fine, kinda pricey though. cut it out of a milk carton.....

DM
 

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DIY Expert in Training!
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297 Posts
I had to drill out holes for electrical wiring today...to get the 1 1/4" depth I cut a piece of 2x4 and nailed it to another. I just use it as my quick guide.
 

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Here's a DIY'er tip:

When replacing a light fixture, DON'T disconnect the old fixture at the wire nut connecting the old fixture to the house wiring. The house wiring may have baked insulation from being cooked inside the electrical box and handling that wiring may cause the insulation to break off. Instead, cut the wiring of the old fixture close to the fixture and connect to the old fixture's wires.

Also, when assembling any metal parts where lubricating the parts would be an advantage, but you're reluctant to use a lubricant because dust would stick to it and possibly interfere with the operation of the machinery, remember that glycerine has the lubricating properties of a light oil but evaporates completely without leaving a residue. You can buy glycerine at any pharmacy.

The best way to avoid brush strokes when painting with a brush is to thin your paint. Adding thinner both allows the paint to self level faster and increases the drying time of the paint so that it has more time to self level. Thinning the paint results in it drying to a smaller film thickness, so you need to compensate for thinning by applying an additional coat.

Before painting with any brush, clean it with the thinner of the paint you'll be using. If you'll be using a latex paint, wash the brush out with water. That will allow water to be absorbed by capillary pressure high up into the brush's bristles. This prevents the paint that gets high up in the bristles from drying out while you're painting so that when you do wash the brush out, ALL of the paint comes out easily and quickly. It also prevents "hard heel" syndrome in brushes cause by paint drying high up in the bristles.

Removing a stubborn hinge pin from a door hinge is best done by gripping the head of the hinge pin with a small pair of locking pliers and twisting the hinge pin back and forth in the knuckle while pulling on it.

To prevent faucet knobs from sticking to the top of the faucet stems, apply some antiseize compound to the knob or stem top before screwing the knob on.

You can clean mildewed silicon by mixing bleach and talcum powder (aka: magnesium silicate) to make a paste. Trowel the paste onto the mildewed silicone, cover with Saran Wrap so the bleach doesn't dry out, and leave it for a couple of days like that.
 

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Here's a DIY'er tip:

When replacing a light fixture, DON'T disconnect the old fixture at the wire nut connecting the old fixture to the house wiring. The house wiring may have baked insulation from being cooked inside the electrical box and handling that wiring may cause the insulation to break off. Instead, cut the wiring of the old fixture close to the fixture and connect to the old fixture's wires.
Sorry to be a funsucker on this thread but...
That may be a DIYer tip, but it sure itsn't a good idea. :huh:

This method adds an unnecessary connection and involves using pigtail wiring from the previous fixture to connect to the new fixture's pigtail wiring. It also puts faith in the connection made by the person that installed the last fixture, and the pigtail size of the old may be smaller than that of the new. I have never seen a professional electrician do that on any sort of retrofit electrical work, and I'd never consider doing that myself. Hardened insulation on household wiring will strip off enough to facilitate proper installation of the new fixture's pigtail in a wire nut.
 

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OK, KCTermite, here's one to replace it:

HOW TO MAKE A TEST TUBE DISAPPEAR:

Immerse a test tube in corn oil. It will become completely invisible when it's immersed in corn oil.

That's cuz the refractive index of corn oil is 1.470 to 1.474

http://www.corn.org/CornOil.pdf (page 15)

and the refractive index of Pyrex glass (which test tubes are made of) is 1.473
http://www.valleydesign.com/pr16.htm

So, if you immerse a test tube in corn oil, it will become invisible because almost no light will reflect or refract at the oil/Pyrex interface(s). Thus, light travelling through the corn oil will behave almost exactly the same way whether it goes through a test tube not. That means, the test tube will become invisible.

You gotta know about refractive indices to get your DIY'er arm badge in Invisibility.
 

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Just today I was on a jobsite trying to figure out how to make a test tube disappear. :huh:

Nestor, take your medicine! :laughing:
 

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K&B Remodeler/Tile Guy
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887 Posts
Never set your cordless drill down on the battery. It's much safer to lay it on its side....on the floor. If you place it on a counter top sitting on its battery, you can VERY EASILY knock it over and where it stops, nobody knows!
Ask me how I know....:icon_redface:
 

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Never set your cordless drill down on the battery. It's much safer to lay it on its side....on the floor. If you place it on a counter top sitting on its battery, you can VERY EASILY knock it over and where it stops, nobody knows!
Ask me how I know....:icon_redface:
I'm picturing broken floor tiles and scratched cabinets, or perhaps a throbbing foot.

Along the same lines, don't hold your face too close to the drill battery while drilling. When the bit grabs and the drill starts spinning at 600 rpm's, it is about like getting hit in the face by a gorilla. This one took a few stitches after I peeled myself off the floor and figured out who and where I was.
 

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K&B Remodeler/Tile Guy
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I'm picturing broken floor tiles and scratched cabinets, or perhaps a throbbing foot.
Actually, I got lucky. The drill took a header and landed directly on the bit and stuck in the subfloor for a moment...before the bit snapped in two. I say the subfloor but I was lucky. I was installing a base cabinet next to the dishwasher, where the subfloor hadn't been finished. The rest of the floor was freshly stained oak! Good thing I was relocating the dishwasher!!

You sure are scarred up, aren't you :(
 

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Sometimes, a box of childrens crayons will have a good match when theres a need for filling nail holes before staining or painting. I have done this when a commercial match was difficult to find.
 

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the Musigician
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Discussion Starter #20
i've done that too rjordan, but i had to blend them to the right color on a piece of cardboard with a bic lighter. =o)
if it works, it works!

DM
 
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