First bit is about Unshielded Twisted Pair (UTP) vs Shielded Twisted Pair (STP) Bottom line is shielded is not your friend if it is not bonded properly. Regular UTP does fine.
Notes from Skyking
See my post above the why not. UTP does a fine job of eliminating interference, and STP if it is not properly bonded will bring everything in to the cable. It really sucks that way.
CAT6 is good for 10Gig for 60 meters. That means ANY CAT6 cable. CAT6a is better.
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What is the difference between horizontal and vertical wire? Maybe get some mounting hardware then run the wire along the overhead rafters and avoid contact all together?
Riser cable is certified for running up several floors in a vertical chase. It is good for horizontal also.
No cable will carry 10gig if it is improperly installed. I can't tell you all the ins and outs in a post but here are a few pointers:
1) watch bend radius. keep bends gentle. See the specs for exact figures.
2) be careful of installation bends and 'assholes'. "*******" is the highly technical term describing what a wire does when it forms a loop that gets pulled tighter and tighter till it deforms the jacket. These loops feed right out of the box. The only way to avoid them entirely is to have help at the box while pulling in the cable.
3) Use reel-in-box cable if at all possible. it helps with item #2.
4) don't zip-tie or otherwise secure the cable tightly. Simply put, it can interfere with proper operation and cause reflection of the signals. if you must use ties be very very gentle.
5) think of laying the cable rather than pulling it. try not to put it in a huge bind while dragging it in, and support it at least every 4' . Use supports that don't put a harsh load on the wire. Caddy makes a cool retainer with a gentle broad support.
6) if you are making several runs, invest in a few boxes. Your time is worth more than the wire.
7) if dragging wire in through a conduit or long restricted space, be aware of the possibility of 'burning' a wire. 'burning' occurs when a wire that is already in place restricts the new wire being dragged in, and the new wire literally burns or cuts through the jacket and into the conductors of the original wire. It is a real bummer because you may never see the damage and have a hell of a time troubleshooting it when it fails certification.
To eliminate 'burning', measure up the runs going through that conduit and pre-cut them with plenty to spare, and drag the whole bundle in at once. See #6 for the ideal solution, enough boxes to drag them all in out of the box.
8)Leave plenty of slack in the jack end, at least 2'. leave at least 6' to spare at the patch panel. you can't just splice it and it will save your butt if you have to move the panel, misjudged routing, etc.
9) overbuild the cable plant. if you need 1 drop, bring 2. Something will change and you will be happy you did. Some of those places are a real ***** to get back to, even impossible after construction. Keep in mind #7 too. You can mess a whole lot of things up trying to drag in a wire you could have brought in in the beginning.
If you are going to spend all the money don't ruin it by crimping. Get a good punchdown tool with a 110 blade and a pair of klien electrician scissors. Home depot has them both.
Practice scoring the jacket until you are sure you are not cutting conductors below, and then bend/twist it off.
Terminate all runs in keystone jacks, mounted in faceplates or surface mount boxes. Anything else is not certified and asking for troubles.
Buy premade patch cables for a few bucks each to hook up.
Some people have the right spot for a patch panel, i did not. I ran 10 drops in my house and installed two 6 port plates in low voltage brackets, it is clean and flush to the wall.
