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I'm installing a floor soon and someone mentioned Ditra.
Which is better, Ditra or 1/4" Hardibacker? Difference between Ditra and Ditra XL?
I've installed Hardibacker before, haven't installed Ditra. I know what I'm doing with Hardi, never done Ditra. Easy enough for first try to get right? Worth learning?
Ditra seems somewhat flexible, which I'm uncertain about. That seems like it would transmit less movement from shifting wood under the ditra up through to the tile. On the other hand, it's flexible, so if there's pressure on the tile wouldn't it flex the Ditra itself?
Ditra doesn't bond to thinset. It's held mechanically, that's why it looks like a giant waffle. What are the implications here? Thinset bonds directly to Hardibacker and mortars the tile down solidly.
Budget isn't a huge issue. It looks like Ditra would cost $250 versus Hardibacker costing around $100 plus $30 of screws for this job. With the Ditra XL, the handbook seems to indicate that I could skip the additional 3/4 underlayment and still have the same structural strength, saving labor and a bit of money ($380 for that, and the subfloor will be $250 to put in, plus then I have to run more throughout the house, plus $130 for Hardibacker in the kitchen)..
Worth it or not?
Which is better, Ditra or 1/4" Hardibacker? Difference between Ditra and Ditra XL?
I've installed Hardibacker before, haven't installed Ditra. I know what I'm doing with Hardi, never done Ditra. Easy enough for first try to get right? Worth learning?
Ditra seems somewhat flexible, which I'm uncertain about. That seems like it would transmit less movement from shifting wood under the ditra up through to the tile. On the other hand, it's flexible, so if there's pressure on the tile wouldn't it flex the Ditra itself?
Ditra doesn't bond to thinset. It's held mechanically, that's why it looks like a giant waffle. What are the implications here? Thinset bonds directly to Hardibacker and mortars the tile down solidly.
Budget isn't a huge issue. It looks like Ditra would cost $250 versus Hardibacker costing around $100 plus $30 of screws for this job. With the Ditra XL, the handbook seems to indicate that I could skip the additional 3/4 underlayment and still have the same structural strength, saving labor and a bit of money ($380 for that, and the subfloor will be $250 to put in, plus then I have to run more throughout the house, plus $130 for Hardibacker in the kitchen)..
Worth it or not?