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· GBunny
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I was cleaning eaves trough and noticed there is a dip in the bottom shingles (please see attached photo). What does this mean?

Also, there was a lot of sand from shingles in eaves trough. The shingles were laid about 8 or 9 years ago.
 

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Also looks like they didn't notch the drip edge around the spike, which may cause the drip to be too high in that spot. Any more pics of the roof? Unfortunately 8 or 9:years ago was a bad time to get a roof on our market. Your shingles are likely the organics that failed almost universally.
 

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I agree somethings just not right there.
If it was the drip edge not notched there would be a hump in that one area.
I'd be looking inside the attic to see if there was any water damage, then lifting or even removing some of the shingles and paper to get a better look.
Where to old shingles removed before installing the new ones?
Where they laid over old 1 X 6's and no one installed new sheathing over them?
 

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You live in an area that gets a little snow once in awhile. When the snow on the roof begins to melt because of the warm air in the attic, the resulting stream of water, flowing under the snow, flows down to the roof overhang area (where the gutter is). Because that area is cold, not heated, the water freezes. As the thawing, freezing cycle keeps going, the ice formed has to go somewhere. A dam forms at the gutter, so the ice begins backing up - under the shingles. It gets to the warm attic area again, and because it is slightly warmer than the snow pack it is travelling under, it melts again. As this cycle repeats itself it soaks the wood where you see the dip.
The reason for this can almost always be traced to improper or inadequate attic ventilation. In most cases the problem involves the intake (cornice, soffit) vents. Go to AirVent.com. Watch the videos. If needed, give them a call.
Unfortunately, you are looking at a major repair, possibly a new roof.
 

· Household Handyman
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This looks like the first set of gutters that were on my house with the same exact problem. Removing the first three runs of shingles revealed that the bottom edge of the 1/2" plywood decking was rotten. A friend of mine who used to do roofing came over, took one look at the set-up and told me: "I've seen this so many times and you probably won't believe what I am about to say. These gutters stop up so bad that water will actually run over the outer edge of the gutter itself (yep, I had seen that many times). Then he tells me that when the gutter is full the drip edge will actually be in the water, that made sense, and that water will actually wick up the metal drip edge to a point that the water will get the plywood wet about one foot from the bottom edge of the plywood. That I had to give some serious thought, but it did seem possible. He suggested larger gutters with larger downspouts and to place small pieces of pressure treated wood, spaced about one foot apart between the facia board and gutter, and to lower the gutter two inches (2"). This eliminated the drip edge from being in water IF the newer gutter were to stop up. We ripped off about three feet (3 ft.) of roofing material to get to the plywood which was rotted up about twelve inches (12") from the bottom edge. We replaced the bottom two feet (2 ft.) of decking and built up from there. This worked well for some few years until the gutters were stopping up too frequently again due to leaves, etc. coming off of the roof. These aluminum gutters were replaced with a PVC pipe system which is in another post I made.
 

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sometimes people install their fascia flush to the top of the rafter tails so the sheathing sits butt to the fascia instead of overhanging it. doing this creates a kick out as shown in your picture, or they didn't cut the gutter spikes. you could tell if it was the gutter spike issue by pressing firmly on the bottom shingle to see if there is a void under the metal.
 
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