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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I searched, but didn't see where this was addressed. I'm getting ready to tile the surround from tub to ceiling. I'm using 12 X 12 tile. The end walls will have a total of 36" of tile from the back wall outward. I will be using a bull nose trim (12" long each)vertically floor to ceiling. My thoughts are to do the back wall and set the bull nose first. The start from the bull nose and work toward the back wall so the cut piece will be nearest the back wall. Is this faulty logic?

Thanks
 

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Tileguy
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Hi MIke,

My thoughts are to do the back wall and set the bull nose first.
You lost me there. There will be no bullnose on the back wall.


The (then) start from the bull nose and work toward the back wall so the cut piece will be nearest the back wall.
Right.:thumbsup: You almost always start at the outside edge with bullnose and full tile and cut into the corner.

What are the walls made of? What type of adhesive will you be using? Vapor barrier? Waterproofing?

Jaz
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hi Bud, and thanks. The walls are 1/2" hardi-backer and I figure on using modified thinset. Behind the hardie backer is sheet of plastic tub to ceiling (all one piece).

What I meant was 1.) do the back wall first and 2.) start with the bull nose and work toward the back wall.

Another point I have been pondering, should I maintain the 1/4" grout line where the back corners are? It seems I would?
 

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Tileguy
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What I meant was 1.) do the back wall first and 2.) start with the bull nose and work toward the back wall.
I knew what you meant.:)
When I said; "That's the way it is done" what I meant was: "That's the way it is done.":yes:

Another point I have been pondering, should I maintain the 1/4" grout line where the back corners are? It seems I would?
Yes but in my opinion 1/8" would be much much better.:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
An 1/8th it is, thanks Bud!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
One more thing, if you please? If as I expect one of the 12X12 tiles at the top or bottom of the back and ends walls has to be cut, which looks best? cut tile at top? or bottom?
 

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Tileguy
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One more thing, if you please? If as I expect one of the 12X12 tiles at the top or bottom of the back and ends walls has to be cut, which looks best? cut tile at top? or bottom?
Okay here's the thing.....
If your tub is level, I mean really level, then you would want to start the tile at the tub and move upward thereby cutting the top row of tiles. No one ever looks up anyway.:) Unless that would cause you to have a sliver at the top. If that would be the case you need to do a better job of balancing the rows top to bottom and then cut both the top and bottom.

If your tub is not level then this aspect commands you to cut the tiles at the tub making the tops of the first row of tiles level. The cut may have to be a little crooked but this is the lessor of the evils. If your first row of tiles isn't truly level then nothing else is going to square to it and you don't want that.:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I installed the tub and it was spot on level. It rests on a 2X4 across the back wall and that wall rests on a concrete floor. So it 'should' still be level. BUT I will check before starting. I intend to insert a strip of decorative tile around the walls while setting the tile. I haven't given much thought as to what height that strip would look best. Figured I would look at some completed baths and see about where it should be. Is there a common height?
 

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Tileguy
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Is there a common height?
Nothing etched in stone but I have always used the five foot height. Five feet up from the floor which is sometimes considered eye-level.:) Just depends on where the shower head penetrates the wall. Don't want it to look funky as it would relate to the shower head. Installers choice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Almost done. Still have to caulk and seal, but thought you may want to see how it went. I actually ended up cutting the top and bottom row, and I will give you my reason. As we discussed earlier, I set the bull nose first. I got to thinking, IF one of the bull nose happened to not be plumb for some reason and the joints were staggered to those of the field tile, when the field tile was set next to the bull nose, it seemed to me it would magnify the out of plumb. Secondly, I wanted the first tile next to the bull nose to sit down over the curved edge of the tub thus eliminating the triangle hole on the outside edge of the tub. It may not have mattered actually, but I chose to align the joints of the field tiles to the bull nose. So for that reason I cut the starter row around the bottom so the joints aligned. I knew I was going to have at least a 4 inch top row and I didn't think that would look bad.
Once I get the caulking and sealing done, I can install a WC and vanity.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks to you and others here at DIYchatroom.

By the way, I caulked this morning. I bought caulk made by the same company as the grout and color matched it.
 
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