If you want to be a do it yourselfer better get some basic tools and supplies. Mapp torch, pipe cutter, sandpaper, flux, solder. And be prepared to keep ripping out galvenized pipe until you get to a good piece you can connect to.
Dielectric union install
Hi there,
My cold water line for the water heater is copper and elbows left for the supply line. After the bend, it meets a galvanized pipe (the supply). There is heavy galvanic corrosion that I need to repair. I am planning to install a dielectric union. 2 questions: 1, do I have to do anything to the water heater itself, or is cutting off the supply line enough? 2, do I need to solder the copper pipe or can it be attached another way? (I have no experience with soldering nor have supplies for it. So if needed, any general instructions are very helpful!)
To summarize the entire system, PVC (with shut off) enters the house basement, meets galvanized, meets copper (corrosion) which runs to water heater.
Thanks
My cold water line for the water heater is copper and elbows left for the supply line. After the bend, it meets a galvanized pipe (the supply). There is heavy galvanic corrosion that I need to repair. I am planning to install a dielectric union. 2 questions: 1, do I have to do anything to the water heater itself, or is cutting off the supply line enough? 2, do I need to solder the copper pipe or can it be attached another way? (I have no experience with soldering nor have supplies for it. So if needed, any general instructions are very helpful!)
To summarize the entire system, PVC (with shut off) enters the house basement, meets galvanized, meets copper (corrosion) which runs to water heater.
Thanks
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
You would be way better off getting rid of all that old steel pipe!
It is going to leak and close up on the inside at some point.
It is going to leak and close up on the inside at some point.
Thanks guys. Would it be better to take out the galvanized and go from CPVC to copper? I know it'd be ideal to use one but I don't have the time for that major a project. Would a push fitting be okay to connect those two?
Galv is a ticking time bomb. If you wish to avoid soldering, I would replace ALL the galv with CPVC (PVC is generally not allowed inside a home). Then you just have to transition from CPVC to copper at the water heater.
They do make push-fit gate valves (your water heater needs a valve on the cold supply, regardless). What I don't know is, can you push copper into one side of the valve and push CPVC into the other side? If so, that would seem to be the easiest solution, valve and transition all in one fitting without soldering.
They do make push-fit gate valves (your water heater needs a valve on the cold supply, regardless). What I don't know is, can you push copper into one side of the valve and push CPVC into the other side? If so, that would seem to be the easiest solution, valve and transition all in one fitting without soldering.
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
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