DIY Home Improvement Forum banner
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

· Banned
Joined
·
30,077 Posts
I have always used dielectric even though they say it is non-conductive. If the pins are connected and have continuity, voltage is going through. The dielectric is great at keeping the moisture and corrosion out as well and making sure they come apart when needed.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
16,365 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
OK, I had put a very thin application on about a dozen or so LED ceiling can light bulb threads because some required my mechanics nitrile gloves to remove the old bulbs. Then later I put some on the copper lugs in this fuse box and man OH man did that ever make a difference. I'll be leaving that there too. thanks
 

Attachments

· Registered
Joined
·
2,617 Posts
I use dielectic grease on any outdoor light bulb I replace. And that includes automotive. I also use it for most any automotive function that involves a rubber boot. Like a spark plug or the rubber boot over the banjo connection on a brake caliper. It help keeps out the dirt and makes it slide off easier.

Also, I use teflon tape on my garden hoses and sprinklers. Being outside, they tend to corrode a bit and the tape helps the hoses go on easier.
 

· Njuneer
Joined
·
1,786 Posts
Dielectric grease when in a proper application, is supposed to get out of the way when a bond or metal/metal contact is made. However, I have found that it can suck with low power/low voltage applications that might not have very good contacts such as bayonet bulbs.

Spark wires is obviously fine due to the high KV.

There are also less insulative greases that are used for Aluminum lugs. We have conductive grease around here and love it, but you really have to be careful how you use it and where. It is almost always loaded with conductive metals so easy to identify.

I have not found too many big box dielectric greases with actual ratings on them, but would really help, so I can't really advise other than I buy all that stuff from either somewhere like Grainger or Digikey that have specs on their products. You would likely have to order conductive grease.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
16,365 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Most equipment manufacturer's specify a grease based on their UL testing standards. One of the most common greases used for electrical components is NO-OX-ID https://www.sanchem.com/docs/NO-OX-ID A-Special Electrical Grade.pdf

A small container will last many years if applied correctly.

Cheers
John
Thanks for the info. I don't believe my grease has those i d numbers.

**************************************************

QUOTE:" Use a toothpick size steel wire brush to buff the face of the terminal post until the face is bright lead ".


If the writer of the link is thinking a common steel wire brush to remove oxidized lead from battery terminals, i've never been successful in removing the dark gray to shining silver color with those brushes. That's why special terminal wire brushes were made to do that several decades ago and when i don't have mine handy or emery tape / sand paper out comes my trusty pocket knife.


 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top