DIY Home Improvement Forum banner
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am finishing my basement, and we were initially going to do a thin vinyl flooring in the basement, so I installed the toilet flange about an 1/8 of an inch above the concrete floor.

Now the wife is thinking she wants to do tile, which will raise the floor considerably and will definitely be thicker than 1/8 inch. How bad did I mess up?

I know the toilet flange is supposed to sit on the finished flooring, but if we tile now this won't be possible. Am I going to have to rip out the concrete floor to get at the drain pipe to cut it and extend it?

I don't want to risk a toilet leak from the flange being too low.

I attached pictures of the flange so you can see the height it is at. Also, from the pictures you can see the the flange is slightly off level, will this be a problem as well?

In hindsight I would have waited to install the flange until the finished flooring was installed but the inspector wants the flange to be installed before the rough inspection, so I just tried to guess the height...

Thanks for any advice!
 

Attachments

· Registered
Joined
·
2,617 Posts
You can always raise the flange by adding adapters, stacking wax rings, or the new fangled, waxless rings. But it is hard to lower the ring.

So, nope, you didn't screw up.

Just sigh, shake your head, and say something like, Well, it will take a lot of work, but I guess, I can do it.... And see if it will get you anywhere....
 

· Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Haha thanks guys, glad to hear that I don't have to start tearing out concrete!

So, another question, if we end up installing tile obviously the tile won't fit under the flange, how would you secure the flange down? Just screw it down to the concrete floor so it's flush and then tile around it and then add the spacers/extenders?

Maybe I could use a decoupling membrane like ditra between the tile and concrete and slide that under the flange to give it a secure base and then screw it down?

What do you think?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,617 Posts
You would secure your flange to the concrete floor using tapcon or similar screws if that is the type of flange you are using.

Some flanges are secured to the drain pipe and just rest on the floor.

The one in the picture you have would be secured to the floor using tapcon screws and then spacers stacked on top. And it looks like you can screw through the Oatey ones that @Windows on Wash had a link to as well as yours to make it even tighter.

I would keep everything tile related away from it to make sure it keeps a good seal.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
13,091 Posts
A lot of times flanges are anchored to the floor and spacers or extra thick seals are used to compensate the height difference.
I like plastic spacers to get slightly proud of the finish floor.
Personally, I anchor the flange at roughin. If I know the build up height, the spacer goes down first and the flange goes on top. Then anchor through both. Otherwise, I put the spacer on top at trim time, sandwiching a layer of silicone between the two. Since I have anchored the flange at roughin, I rely on the silicone, wax ring horn and toilet bolts to seal it. Never had an issue.
Beware in your case, you need to shim the gap before you push the flange down with anchors. The ring may pop of the plastic part of the flange. Then your in a bad way.... but you must anchor it.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: MTN REMODEL LLC

· Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
A lot of times flanges are anchored to the floor and spacers or extra thick seals are used to compensate the height difference.
I like plastic spacers to get slightly proud of the finish floor.
Personally, I anchor the flange at roughin. If I know the build up height, the spacer goes down first and the flange goes on top. Then anchor through both. Otherwise, I put the spacer on top at trim time, sandwiching a layer of silicone between the two. Since I have anchored the flange at roughin, I rely on the silicone, wax ring horn and toilet bolts to seal it. Never had an issue.
Beware in your case, you need to shim the gap before you push the flange down with anchors. The ring may pop of the plastic part of the flange. Then your in a bad way.... but you must anchor it.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
Awesome, thanks for the reply ePlumber! Anything specific I should use to shim the gap?

If we end up tiling down there can I use the ditra as the "shim" as long as it fits fairly tight under the gap of the flange? Or use something else to shim and then cut the ditra around the flange?
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
13,091 Posts
Awesome, thanks Nealtw! Will do
I just have to add-- be sure the toilet bolt slots in the flange are where you want them- so your toilet will be square to the wall... :wink2:
 

· Remodel and New Build GC
Joined
·
11,770 Posts
You can always raise the flange by adding adapters, stacking wax rings, or the new fangled, waxless rings. But it is hard to lower the ring.

So, nope, you didn't screw up.

Just sigh, shake your head, and say something like, Well, it will take a lot of work, but I guess, I can do it.... And see if it will get you anywhere....
AND,,,,,don't forget to get the bill paid.....:biggrin2:
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top