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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

I have a 2" drain/vent in a standard 2x4 wall. The P-Trap calls for a 3/16" close fit on the male threaded connection. With 1" for csb/tile, how would I possibly attain this? I am over by an inch or more??? :vs_frown:

Does anyone make a sanitary tee with 1.5" male thread (MPT)?

Other ideas? reduce pipe to 1.5" and use a 1.5" tee. May help a little
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, but I'm still confused by what you are suggesting.

The 2" pipe comes up from the floor and currently has a 2"x2"x2" tee which is stubbed for the drain connection. The vent pipe comes out directly above.

Are you suggesting not using a tee there, but move the drain to one side and then use a tee, but to the right and not out. Then use a 90 going to the male adapter?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I am planning on changing the rough-in. All the drywall has been removed. The current design has a 2" sanitary tee connected to a 2" piece of PVC with a 2" male thread adapter cemented to it. All told, it sticks out about 5" from the "face" of the wall. Wall Room Ceiling Floor Plaster
 

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ok you have a few options, from the look of it, im assuming the stub out is glued into the T, so you can try to cut out that stub and with some heat soften the edge of the T and try to spin out the stub, if not you can cut that T out and put in a test T..that will have threads almost flush with the pipe and you can use galvanized nipples to connect the trap and you can get a close nipple about an 1 1/4 in length...http://www.amazon.com/NIBCO-4811-14...454359764&sr=8-1&keywords=2+inch+pvc+test+tee
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ben and Ghostmaker. Thanks for the suggestions, but both will leave the stub way too far out of the wall. ShtRnsdownhill's idea may work. Does the galvanized (or stainless) have the same inside diameter as the PVC, so I can still use a compression nut? Also, is the test tee legal? Does it really matter whether I use a sanitary tee or test tee?
 

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the test T that I gave you the link to, has the same sweep as one without the threads on the inside...can you show a picture of the trap, cause now you have me confused a little...is it a tubular trap you want to use? and yes the inside of the galvanized will accept a tubular trap to slip inside...
 

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I gave my suggestion that would meet code anywhere...its up the op if he uses it..if not its also up to him .. if someone give him suggestions that works for him out of code so be it ...... as professionials we have to apply the code to correctly help someone.. or why come to the site to get misinformed ..they can do it wrong on there own....just how i feel ..do it right or don't do it at all...
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I was intending to do this correctly as I already bought the reducing sanitary tee and the male thread adapter, I was just surprised when I realized it would stick out so far. I was just curious as to how plumbers would handle this situation. Perhaps, I can get a much larger bell flange and call it a day after replacing the setup. I am using a pedestal vanity as shown and the plumbing will only be noticeable when on the toilet :)

Wood Hardwood Plywood Furniture Wood stain
 
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